1 Lucky Texan

well, the front diff may have needed fluid but, it's the automatic transmission that contains the 'wet clutch pack' and Duty Solenoid 'C'. So, you could try a transmission drain/fill with fresh fluid(if the fluid is quite old, do 3 d/f cycles to get mostly new fluid). If you have read up on binding here you already know that your tires must be the same model and wear and inflation, etc.

well, a quart has likely overfilled the tranny. Again, not knowing anything about the car, or it's maintenance, it could have just lost some over time. Or, whoever did the maintenance last time underfilled it. The stick has 2 marks near each other at the bottom - that is low and 'normal' levels for a cold engine. So, it may have been an OK fluid level for a cold car. The marks further up are for measuring the fluid when it is hot. 9 qts can expand quite a bit with temperature. Be prepared to get some of that fluid back out of there unless there is a leak or it was low on fluid. Again, that stick is very 'high resolution'/sensitive. You have to add 1/2 pint at a time and sneak up on the proper level. Was the fluid very dark and/or smelly or bright/clear red?

well, you said it changed with engine (not car) speed about 3-4 times in your original post. yeah, could be wheel bearing, kift front of car, try grab tires at 12 and 6 oclock positions and try to sigt up and down, ANY detectable movement requires further inspection for bearing or balljoint or other problem, even a millimeter of movement. Also, if one hub feels hotter after driving thena the opposite side, could be wheel bearing or brake problem. Of course, there are axles and the front differential that can make noises.

The drain for the auto will only let a little less than 4 qts. out. The system holds around 9 qts. total but, kinda tricky to actually get all 9 out. So, if you drain/fill about 3 times, you probably have 70-80% new fluid. I could see driving around for a few days in between, maybe fresh fluid helps wash out some varnish or something. Valvoline High Mileage or Dex/Merc. or ??? Only needs to be 'compatible' with Dexron III. I would probably stay with a name brand though. Subaru has a new fluid ATF-HP but, not cheap. If no shifting improvement, you might do a last drain, put in the Trans-X then fill with DExron III. The dipstick is very 'sensitive' and the marks are only about a pint apart on the tranny, So, after a drain, only put in 3 or 3.25 qts., then check the level. You have to sneak up on the proper amount 1/2 pint ata a time. get a funnell with a hose.

I've never tried using my Innova on a running car but, yeah, maybe just wait for a few drivecycles - or try clearing again with the key just 'on'.

the one I read about most is called Trans-X I believe, you might try a search for that term. I haven't used it, but a fluid change and Trans-X is what I would try for odd/sluggish shifting problems. Doesn't mean you don't have more significant problems - but given the cost of transmission repair, it's something you could try on your own. Has the transmission been maintained? Fluid level good? (check while idling - and wait for a few minutes after pulling the dipstick out) Clear red fluid? Might just need some fresh fluid. If you are uncomfortable with your mechanic, someone here may know a soob experienced shop near where you live. Seems like you do have multiple issues and can get confusing chasing down several overlapping problems. Good diagnosis is worth paying for. Even of 3-4 problems are found, a mechanic can suggest what needs immediate attention, what can wait a while, and perhaps what you may be able to DIY.

Is that the ONLY warning light on? Is the Check Engine Light on? When your friend turns the key to on - before starting - does the CEL illuminate?

if the car is not releasing some transmission solenoid w'ever, and the TC is staying locked too long, that could be the separate issue 1997reduxe mentioned above. Some people have good luck doing a 3 drain/fill cycles on the transmission and maybe using a Trans-X additive. i hope you get it sorted out but, seems like this car may have had some issues or missed some maintenance along the way.

from what I've read likely still overcharged, or possibly bad/clogged H tube.

I'll mention a 'myth', maybe, I use Techron every couple of years in my cars. usually a tank or 2 before an oil change. Is it a wasted effort? many people seem to get good results from SeaFoam, though it seems you need to have a neglected vehicle or a specific problem. Any experience/comments? Subaru requires use of the coolant conditioner (rebranded Holdt's ?) in a few year/models. This seems to be an additive that works. Should all soobs be using it? Is there a downside to it?

If general disorder is still monitoring this thread, he may have 2-3 ideas but, seems to me, you have a MAF-related problem. It needs cleaning or it has a poor cable connection, there's an intake hose routing issue or it needs replacing, etc.

is there any indication the car has run rich in the past? maybe the exhaust is clogged/bad cat. eh, you'd think you get a 420 code or something. I know you checked the coil, but, if you can get the 'Sometimes it will start and idle really rough.' condition to maintain for a few minutes, you might try pulling plug wires one at a time to locate a bad cylinder (sticking valve?) or a general HV failure (coil intermittent???) dunno, crazy

have you looked on the magnet?

OK, just some wild rambling ideas; since you bought it used, triple check all the vapor/vacuum line routing in case someone misrouted something. Also, wonder if it had timing belt service at 109K? It seems to intermittently run well so, I doubt it has slipped a tooth. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it? Sometimes that can help with several diagnostic hints. You might clean and recoonect as many ground connections as you can find. Also, confrim that the wiring from the Engine Temp Sensor is good. Not the Coolant Gauge Sender. Any hints that voltage falls off when the poor running condition shows itself? It's my understanding that, with the mAF unplugged, the system should be in 'limp home' mode. I might be tempted to try troubleshooting why it won't even idle in that condition. No other DTCs stored?

may as well cover all the options - anyone using these?, I might buy some;

yeah, that was nuts.

this sounds like great advice. Would there be any point in him looking at the Miata market?

well, I'd definitely either own a scanner or get the bulb repaired if I was 'in charge' of that car. If the bulb is burned out, how do you know at anytime if there's a code set? Go to an Autozone and have it scanned. It certainly is possible, with it failing intermittently, for a code to be set, then clear itself, but some codes may remain for a very long time. If the Autozone will allow it, write the Pxxx code(s), and have them erase the codes. Then, the next time the car stalls or exhibits a problem, have it scanned ASAP and again, get back to us with the codes. None of this means we will have an answer - but it has the potential to point us in the right direction. And she should really consider having that bulb repaired.

certainly possible, but, since your problem is on-going, not likely an issue. But, just to be clear, the CEL bulb is actually working right? It should be tested everytime the key turns to 'on' like the other lamps.

saw a couple of animations at GKN (used to be Tochigi Fuji Super) but not great; http://www.gkndriveline.com/drivelinecms/opencms/en/solutions/transaxle-solutions/cross-axle-limited-slip-and-locking-differentials/

just lurking in the post but, talk about smell, I did a drain/fill on our 03 OBW with 4 qts (it only held about 3.5) of Subaru ATF-HP. That stuff really stinks right out of the bottle. pew!

when the key is turned to 'on' and all the instrument cluster lights come on, before starting, does the CEL light come on? Has it ever come on when the car stalls? Maybe have the OBDII system scanned for pending codes. An AutoZone or similar car parts place can use their scanner. write down any code as P0123 or w'ever.

I also changed the PCV valve. With the washer tank outta the way, it's right there on a boss on the DS valve cover. It points up so, after removing the hose, you can slip a 19mm socket on a coupla long extensions down between som cable/hoses to take it out. It was oily, but not sludge-ey or carboned up. Seemss to have a piston or slug that would move around, but it didn't rattle. I installed a beck-arnley one I bought about a year ago. It has a tapered pipe thread so, I wrapped the new one's threads with some teflon pipe tape and installed it. I'm leaving the undercover off for a coupla weeks to make sure There's no issues that might cause me to need to get back to the plugs or anything. Also, as I was working on the pluugs, I used a 10mm box end wrench to cinch-up every valve cover bolt I could find. several moved 1/8 turn, a couple more, and one on the driver's side I swear was only finger tight! Couldn't reac all of them but I may try some from the top now that I know they may be a little loose. Might extend the time I need to do those gaskets a little while. I may take some pics of the tools I used but really, you just need a lot of options for extension length from the plug socket to the ratchet. I made do with what I had, I can see where a wobble socket might be a helpful option, and one of those ratchets with the 'speed spin disc' or a thumbwheel ratchet would have been great to have.

so, it doesn't really change with engine RPM but rather speed of the car? Or , at the same speed, does it change with different gears?

stilll need to re-install the harness bracket w'ever, and the w'shld washer tank, but, it started like normal and no CEL. Seems to run as smooth as before. Dunno what idle or driving will be like, but, so far so good.