1 Lucky Texan

I have heard of folks using an air hose - also heard htey can shoot across the room!

The US will, eventually convert - maybe require another 2-3 generations. I'd like to point out that the metric system could've helped itself by starting with either the yard - or better - the foot, instead of some arbitrary distance from the equator to the pole divided by 10 million-whatever. And it was our NATO pals that mostly were whining about it. Plus it was falsely promoted as more accurate! Accuracy has nothing to do with the measuring system. It relates to surface finish and repeatability. Hmmm, wonder if your cameras still have 1/4-20 tripod sockets? (but I do kinda like having a 15.875 'little carl' nudge nudge,wink wink)

I do like to run my tires 10-15% over the 'door' number. But in all 4. I think commuter's advice is good.

I once got new shoes for the rear of a '78 Civic that had too much material on them! The guys at the parts store claimed they never had any complaints. I insisted they give me some different ones. The new ones worked. BUT I did not have the drums turned - so perhaps the replacement (rebuilt, cheap) shoes have a little xtra figuring folks have turned their drums. Maybe this is why yours are binding. Slightly over size new rotors AND slightly over 'thick' new pads? Are there any sources for dimensions of new OEM parts to compare? I dunno

Back to the temp issue - I wonder if there could be some kinda missing heat shield under the car directly beneath the airbag controller? Though I'd suspect your dealer would've mentioned it during one of the repairs. I dunno. Carl

Maybe some kinda fuel starvation? Could the fuel pressure be low?

I'd be very suspicious of a bad ground, connector or cable. If there were a design issue that was temp related in '98s, I suspect there would've been a TSB or recall by now. The inside of a car can get over 150 degrees here in Texas. I suspect there are some localities that are worse.

I will need to more closely examine the gasket and hardware sent with the muffler! Um, anti-seize or not on the bolts? And yes, I can understand the issue with possibly bowing the flanges out-of-parallel especially with the mixed material gasket - though I hadn't considered it until you mentioned it. Glad I asked about the torque. Thanx Carl

My advice would be to give your indie mech $75 and a six-pack to check the car out for you. We can only do so much guessing at a description of a noise. Carl

It's a shame that it's a problem so severe. I take no glory in making it one of my guesses. (BOO-yah!!! take THAT Gnuman! - oh ,wait - did I type that out loud or just think it?) ;^)

....muffler and am considering attaching an '06 WRX wagon to it someday. (whenever it comes in - they tell me week of the 23rd? or sooner!) What, if any, would be the correct torque for the flange bolts? tia Carl

you might consider pricing it from jamie (http://www.subiegal.com) who now works at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com or http://www.etrailer.com may have one. I suspect both will come with instructions for installation. Carl

this should be 'stickied'! thanx Carl

I think its easy to misalign the lower part of the airbox cover whne replacing the intake filter. maybe check for that. Some have mentioned a clogged cat convert can whistle - I'd expect that to be loudest at the tailpipe. I suppose a vacuum leak could whistle. Carl

The Saab will be quite a bit smaller too I think. Carl

Did it only make the rattling sound while the car was actually moving? OK - now I'm gonna guess (seems like I did a lot of that already huh! hah!) But maybe what you heard was a sorta flapping sound from a torn CV boot and it's grease was burning off the exhaust manifold. Check the CV boots (inner and outer) and see if one of them is split. Doesn't explain the power loss however. that CC story was crazy! maybe you did have some arcing and it destroyed a relay/fuse box somehwere that affects the CC? I dunno Carl

Axxis, Mintex, Carbotech, EBC, etc. I've read some stuff about them at www.subarureviews.com and there doesn't seem to be much consistent as far as brake dusting. Almost every review that says less, is followed by a review that says more. I DID see one brand that seemed to chew up rotors! I'm tempted to say stick with stock unless you are racing/autoX ing or something. Seems like most of my cars get rear brakes every-other time fronts are done. 70% of braking forces are on the front. As long as the rears are working OK, I say don't touch 'em.

excellent! I also believe a jerky/pulsing vac gauge is diagnostic for valve problems too. (IIRC) Carl

I would say you now have 2-3 good reasons to suspect the cat converter - previously failed some kind of emissions, known fuel rich condition, and the whistle at the tailpipe. Curiously though, there seems to be no restriction at higher rpm and (I guess) no CEL pointing to it. I can't help wondering if a bent or chipped valve could cause a whistling sound? Carl

Is the whistle in the engine compartment? could be a vacuum leak I guess. good luck Carl

Sometimes a slipped TB or stuck/broken valve might be indicated if a strip of paper held at the tail pipe is 'sucked in' when the engine is idling. Might not work for timing that's only off a tooth or so. If you slectively pull the plug wires individually, maybe you can pin down which cyliner is causing the problem. If you pull a wire and ther is NO change in the idle, that's the bad cylinder. Also, normal diagnostic stuff like compression tests might help too. I suppose, since you changed the ECU, the system was 'reset'? Does it ever warm up enough to run well/better? maybe the engine temp sensor is bad and the ECU keeps the 'choke' condition on. Are the plugs wet/carboned? Plugs wires in good shape? just some stuff off the top of my head Carl

I forget what they call them, but the tuner/modder guys have some 'breathers' they sometimes put on Soobs. (there are a 2-3 or more places that require them on modern engines). They sometimes fit oil catchcans too. I dunno much about 'em. If someone can't help, maybe you could try a search over at www.nasioc.com

You should be able to confirm the fan cycles in 15 minutes or less idling in the driveway. I'd suspect the fan or its controller or a partially clogged radiator - but do investigate it properly. good luck (good thinking on the heater fan too.) Carl

How old is the timing belt? maybe one cam slipped a tooth or 2 ? I forgot, does it idle? Try holding a slip of paper at the tailpipe, if it sucks back inside the exhaust during any part of the revolution, maybe slipped timing or leaking/broken valve. I got nothing. Carl

Old but not necessarily worn tires can exhibit vibration from partial tread seperation Plus you could have 2 problems at once I think I'd begin by rotating the tires and see if the noise and/or vibration travel with the tire Carl