1 Lucky Texan

is the car producing a fuel smell at the tailpipe now?

consistent misfires will often cause the CEL to flash. Your manual probably says not to drive the car if the CEL is flashing. Too much unburned fuel going into the cat. conv. can ruin it. highly unlikely to be this pair of clogged injectors - though occasional use of injector cleaner shouldn't hurt anything.

if the codes are consistently in pairs like ; 1 & 2, OR, 3 & 4, that points to a possible coil problem because of 'waste spark' sharing of coil output. cetrainly oil on plugs or cable ends or bad wires, etc. could be an issue.

@GeneralDisorder would his engine be a candidate for a Killer B oil pickup?

I have zero experience wrenching that deep. I suppose, changing both bearings, maybe inspecting some other stuff, could be a good idea. Or, check car-part.com for a used trans. Might even find one with a lot fewer miles than yours. I'm sure others here could guide you if you proceed.

don't some folks just ziptie those things together? or used a 'blob' of silicone. should hold together OK, and easy to cut through 80K miles from now.

wait, NO noise when clutch disengaged? kinda points to trans input shaft bearing doesn't it? is it noisy in Neutral, foot off the clutch? I have read once of a clutch spring that got loose inside the housing....made a lot of racket.

a '64 Rambler Classic (287ci) I had one of those, among the most trouble free vehicles I ever drove. "Weather Eye" instrument cluster, and 'desert only' knob lol! FULLY reclining front seats hubba-hubba

so many questions....how many previous owners? who did the maintenance? has the timing belt system been serviced and by whom? all japanese parts? premium fuel only. even if all the history is positive, it's a higher risk used vehicle than many, many others.

does this car have a hill-holder system?

are the axle stubs fully seated in the diff? I say, 90% chance broken axle/CVJ.(10% chance something very, very weird) It explains the rolling when in park, noise, and low 'power'.

I believe some cars in that age range had a recall involving the parking pawl? does the car still move if in park (no parking brake) ? could be a busted axle and the clutch pack is not xfering enough power. what's reversing like? kinda wonder what behavior would be like in FWD mode....

do these guys have a tool for that? https://www.company23.com/products

the more owners soobs go thru, the more likely some fluid has been confused, so, wait until the diff fluid gets changed. Walmart has a synth-blend GL-5 folks seem to feel is a good value. And you get to examine the drain lug magnet for for excessive particles or, *gulp*, pieces.

sure it's oil and not CV grease from a split boot? could it be power steering fluid? maybe there's a way to pressurize the oil system manually to look for leaks....

GD has mentioned before that it is difficult to get 2.0 parts.

There are these gadgets called Coil Sumo springs (they sell other products that seem less gimmicky), but I have severe doubts about their performance and longevity - anyone here tried them? I know only what the ads say. https://www.superspringsinternational.com/coil-sumosprings/

what would be the downside to a load-leveling hitch?

oh, the torx you may need would be a T-70, same crush washer as eng. oil (20mm ?) local parts store or amazon, etc.

I do own a steamer, but just not crazy about the scraping. Seems like a slow-ish approach. Need to find a plastic scraper I guess.... one guy said to idle the car, that gets some heat onto the hood. at least one method can be a back-up for the other.

loosen the fill plug on the rear BEFORE the drain. I used a floor jack on the handle of a 1/2" breaker bar. some gear lube comes in squeeze bags now but, when I did the rear, I used a pump kinda like this;

did that wheel rock up and down at all? or just had the noise?

concerned about acetone as I will be near the front bumper. I have some citrus (limonene) on hand. Iso is cheap and handy enough to have around...may try those 2 before buying anything to specialized (read; expensive) lol

So I bought a 3M rubber wheel gadget to attempt removing the old cracked clear bra from my car. I have seen 3-4 videos and everyone seems to recommend a different solvent/cleaner to use to clean off adhesive residue. Wondering who's done this or something similar and what did you use? I'm attracted to the suggestion of 90% Isopropyl alcohol if there's no downside but, will it really work?

yeah, kinda feels like more than one problem. Rear bushing on front LCA, or??? the steering wheel, is it whining? is the vibration jerky ?