1 Lucky Texan

can the valve stem be ground down, then bucket put back on?

did you scan for pending codes? I think it's DBW so, I suppose the gas pedal is suspect, the early ones sometimes caused problems. kinda odd...

check level in the RADIATOR until this is resolved. The o'flow bottle is not a reliable indicator of coolant volume.

possible air entrainment issue. May need new o-ring(s) on the suction hose adapter on top of the pump. very common issue.

look for walmart (supertech ?) synthetic BLEND . Some folks say it's great for the money, and evidently the synchros still play nice with it. The cocktail is pricey/fiddly to put together though it does work for most folks. gd is fond of amsoil severe gear. That 's what my shop put in my trans but I don't like it as much as straight Redline shockproof. that's also pricey.

stiffer springs gets you; less roll, less squat, less dive. Given the age of the vehicle, if springs/struts are original, certainly start there. many other bushings are like worn too.

our moderately loaded (3 adults, a little luggage) '03 H6 would begin to overheat when we were going up grades in Nevada heat - 114-117 degrees indicated by the car's therm. I just backed off on the speed. wish I had experimented with downshifting to 3rd. I guess it's just near the limit.

any chance this compressor can be found on some Nissan or Mazda or ???

on 2 cars, only have had o-rings and hoses actually fail. maybe hoses last longer in cooler climates?

thanx, dunno how I confused that. changed title still a little far for me.

decades ago, there were concerns that the bearings were just coated to prevent rust and NEEDED to be properly re-packed. can't remember if that was disproved or not. try a search on the topic? (man I'm getting old)

https://subarufl4tfest.com/activities/fl4tfestcelebration/ wasn't sure where to post it but, there does seem to be an off-road event along with a rally, etc.

see if the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator is wet with fuel. maybe the FPR's diaphragm is leaking.

I admit to not having experience with newer cars, but likely that bushing in your control arm can be pressed out and a new one installed. You will want to find a highly rated full service shop, or check with the dealer. If you have the skills, you could remove the arm and take it to a shop with a hydraulic press and have them swap the bushing out. Someone here may know of a subaru-friendly independent shop near marietta.

that's an odd code for the 6 cylinder engine. given the head gasket issue too, maybe a JDM swap could work for you. if you need help confirming/diagnosing.'triaging' the car, check with @GeneralDisorder - maybe drive there?

the level in the o'flow should only go up a few ounces, then those few ounces should be pulled back into the rad during cooling off. kinda seems like you are experiencing a lot more coolant going into the o'flow on a single drive, that does point to headgaskets (more so if you can spot bubbles when hot and idling) if, it takes several drives to fill up the o'flow, that seems more like an issue with the rad cap or maybe some air leak somewhere.

you're low on coolant - should up at the top of the inner seal. did you install an OEM-style thermostat? make sure there's no build-up of grass/bugs type debris between the rad and the ac condenser. confirm fans are OK cut the bottom of the o'flow tube at 45* angle. If the o'flow bottle is dirty, take it out and put some pieces of ice in it and shake like crazy. until you think this is solved, check coolant level IN THE RADIATOR , the o'flow bottle is an untrustworthy reflection of total coolant volume.

did you get new tires?

no numbers on it?

I'm wondering if there's a way to put a Koni-type insert in your old struts?

The pinks I put on my 06 wrx wagon dropped it about 3/4 inch. But, I dunno what the free length of them or my original springs was.

new block? I'd say that's the source as they are sand cast. At least, I've read that before. probably not worth changing anything but....?

make sure the clutch lever isn't cracked.

refresh all ground connections. I have read, once or twice, of iron debris collecting on the face of the crank angle sensor causing misfires....

That BATT light should be tested at key-0n, before start, with the other warning lights.