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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. ask here, , over at www.subaruoutback.org, at NASIOC, maybe evn the forester and legacy forums. Put a WTB (want to buy) in the classifieds. But finding a 15" wheel will be a challenge I think. The new rims might come with rubber so....just depends on what's around. Maybe check Ebay too. shipping will be crazy expensive unless local pickup or a meet-up is possible.
  2. dang! I do have a low opinion of radiator packaging - but limited to 2 experiences. But that is p!55 poor handling right there.
  3. I've also read the gasket must be OEM, metal type - not paper WP gasket. others will correct me if I'm wrong
  4. if you can WARM the bolts, maybe even just a little, then spray with your penetrant of choice, when the cooling starts the interface may pull penetrant inside.
  5. so, didn't even last long enough to zipper the teeth off 3rd gear huh?
  6. If the Baja FP is like the OBW, could be a 'cap/o-ring' problem on the bottom of the pump assy.
  7. Maybe NASIOC would be a good place to list it. Some WRX swappers there I'm sure.
  8. they do seem to be on Amazon - 19 to 25 bucks. Could be an easier return process if you receive a dud. Also, more reviews to dig thru....fyi
  9. sometimes, I throw ebay items into my cart and wait a few days - about 20% of the time, I'll get a message offering a lower price.
  10. I once poured 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil on the ground changing oil on my dad's truck. Jumped under there and put the plug back in, went to the house, "dad, we're gonna need more oil! mom, can you get oil outta this shirt!"
  11. I've read that a 'hub tamer' type tool, for use on the car, is often preferred. Maybe rent-able?
  12. you seem very experienced but, the usual question for posts like this is, are you checking fluid trans level while idling?
  13. consistent misfires will often cause the CEL to flash. Your manual probably says not to drive the car if the CEL is flashing. Too much unburned fuel going into the cat. conv. can ruin it. highly unlikely to be this pair of clogged injectors - though occasional use of injector cleaner shouldn't hurt anything.
  14. if the codes are consistently in pairs like ; 1 & 2, OR, 3 & 4, that points to a possible coil problem because of 'waste spark' sharing of coil output. cetrainly oil on plugs or cable ends or bad wires, etc. could be an issue.
  15. @GeneralDisorder would his engine be a candidate for a Killer B oil pickup?
  16. I have zero experience wrenching that deep. I suppose, changing both bearings, maybe inspecting some other stuff, could be a good idea. Or, check car-part.com for a used trans. Might even find one with a lot fewer miles than yours. I'm sure others here could guide you if you proceed.
  17. don't some folks just ziptie those things together? or used a 'blob' of silicone. should hold together OK, and easy to cut through 80K miles from now.
  18. wait, NO noise when clutch disengaged? kinda points to trans input shaft bearing doesn't it? is it noisy in Neutral, foot off the clutch? I have read once of a clutch spring that got loose inside the housing....made a lot of racket.
  19. a '64 Rambler Classic (287ci) I had one of those, among the most trouble free vehicles I ever drove. "Weather Eye" instrument cluster, and 'desert only' knob lol! FULLY reclining front seats hubba-hubba
  20. so many questions....how many previous owners? who did the maintenance? has the timing belt system been serviced and by whom? all japanese parts? premium fuel only. even if all the history is positive, it's a higher risk used vehicle than many, many others.
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