1 Lucky Texan

I used to have a Honda Civic that wore 12" tires. Tire shops used to advertise cheap prices and the fine print would say for 12" . I'd go in and say "Hook me up with 4 of those bad boys". Then comes the" Uh, we;;,uh,we,will have to order them."

huh, seems like if this hole were small enough (pics?) it itself could be blocked by a little sludge or debris in the crankcase. I also wonder if it makes this engine more reliant on thinner viscosity oils?

brief search found these, maybe one will help?

I read once long ago of a guy that left the nut on but loose, put the wheel back on, fired-up the car and jooked it back and forth, full acceleration and full braking. Managed to bust it loose.

dunno about a file, but I have cleaned many electrical contacts and edge connector tabs with a rubber pencil eraser.

maybe some electrical contact cleaner sprayed into the switch would help?

try to posting at www.subaruoutback.org as well.

if you're having problems with a dealership, you may need to contact SOA to arrange meeting with a regional representative.

that^^^^^ must be same final drive ratio and, same size/model tires all 4 corners, did tires change with the work done? also, 5 spds viscous ctr diffs usually fail such that, stone cold they are OK, but bind when warm.

Yeah, I also read something written by a motorcycle engine rebuilder and they also recommend just driving it normal-to-hard. The combustion chamber pressure pushes the rings outward and he feels they seat better with use at near max power.....dunno if that translates to our engines perfectly...but no way would I ignore gd's experience.

if the problem is due to something that gets wetted with fuel, some Techron or SeaFoam in a coupla tanks might help. Also, nect fill-up, leave the cap tight, but pull a hose from the charcoal canister....?

I've seen pics online of 'dropped' (shifted) valve guide inspection after dropping the exhaust. I think it is most common on neglected vehicles.

the other end of the IACV tube is connected and the intake tubes/boxes all secure? I'm trying to connect the issues but, maybe something coincident with low coolant?

the rod knock video I watched...the sound was more and more aggressive with rpm. The video I watched with a weak idler, there were 'nodes' where, the effect would come and go with rpm - sorta cycle in to max vibration, then cycle back down as rpms continue to rise..

what they all said. used oil analysis would show increased alloys if piston slap or bearing issue is the cause. Can also look for fuel dilution. Blackstone labs is commonly used for that. is does seem like a lot of vibration though....could a bad u-joint do this? a dropped valve? hope you find something easy lol!

I believe there may be a Philips bulb with a suffix -LL . supposedly for long life.

good idea to check with an ohmmeter.

CAFE rules kinda force manufacturers to do some weird things. I doubt Ford wanted to make an aluminum truck.....

maybe Mevotech? I have read of folks using the brand on older soobs but, most recommend dumping the ball joint that comes installed for a Subaru balljoint. that's all I can offer.

always check and refresh ground connections on older OBD cars. possible dead spot in TPS range less likely would be a timing belt slip....?

Kobayashi Maru that m,effer!

maybe pinched wiring harness somewhere - in the gaiter/conduit from body to hatch? related to original collision?

hmmmm....maybe pull and compare plugs to see if a single cylinder is the problem and which one? maybe a 'dropped' valve guide or?????

I had a mystery noise for almost 2 years - turned out it was one of the bolts from after accessory belt change - I hadn't tightened it. there's a product called Chassis Ears that might help with difficult noises.

tornadoes are the yanks answer to funnel web spiders