1 Lucky Texan

check ATF using the stick on the left side of the engine bay (as sitting in the car) like this; has the engine or transmission recently been out of the car? maybe the trans pump is cracked?

another consideration - if a typical car battery has been completely discharged, it reduces it's lifespan - and every time that happens, damage is cumulative.

I doubt it. (unless we are no longer dealing with an automatic trans equipped car) look again, one stick on each side pull both sticks out - the shortest is the front differential, the longest is for ATF. (engine oil would be some length in-between)

did you check trans fluid level while idling? it's the only fluid you must check with the engine running.

even if the HGs are intact, they may have been stressed and lube may also have been stressed - risk of rod bearing going out early. you like to believe in most crashes, the engine is shut off quickly, but sometimes the car is on it's side or something....oil won't pump correctly if that happens. it's all in the details - you need to get it cheap enough that dropping in a used engine is figured into the cost. others here have MUCH more experience than I do so, just relaying info I've read.

I have a WRX muffler that would fit, free if you know someone passing thru DFW that can bring it to you.

most WRX SPORTWAGON suspension parts should fit - maybe not sedan parts due to different track width. I know anti roll bars are different. maybe axles.... dunno about control arms.... most parts places should do well if you include the VIN, there is always confusion due to the word 'outback' - your car shares very little with the Subaru Outback (Legacy-based) cars.

well, there is a dealer north of McAllen. maybe search/ask here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919333 ,might find an independent repair shop. if oil is leaking onto the plugs, that can cause missing, but he may have 2 separate problems.

a product called RXP seems to have a good reputation around here for helping pass emissions - never used it myself. might be alcohol hah!

any papers or other stuff on the dash? maybe the solar sensor is blocked?

go shopping at www.crutchfield.com, get a unit with blu-tooth !

non-interference right?

make certain the car is fully warmed-up before the test. Keep it idling if you're in a line w'ever. PCV valve might be stuck open I suppose....

hmmmmm.....wonder if pumping the clutch pedal 2-3 times before shifting could be a good test?

I recall some older Chrysler or maybe Mitsubishi-Chrysler imports ? using ATF in their manuals so, not surprising. The reason Subarus can be picky about the man trans lube is, they share a case with the front diff - so a compromise must be made to protect/lube both components. it really isn't so tricky if OEM fluid is used or fluids as suggested by the manual. Some synthetics are problematic because the synchros don't decelerate enough. LOTS of reading here about experiments with different fluids and fluid 'cocktails' if you need some help sleeping lol!; (might also be useful to 'search' that thread to find info about specific brands) https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674

could a clutch be affected by the cold?

we have 2-3 instances every winter that get below 25* or so for 2-3 mornings (as a kid, we called them 'blue northers' - a term that seems to confuse youngsters lol!), sometimes the upper teens. Doesn't stay really cold for more than a few days, but my car sits outside, no issues on cold mornings. It may feel just slightly 'sluggish' for a block or 2, but it shifts fine. Even typical 'balkiness' going into first when rolling feels about the same. Coldest morning I recall was around 13*F, slow to crank but shifting and even my StopTech brake pads were fine from first use. maybe you have some shifter bushings going bad? - not sure why the temperature would affect those severely....

first, consider a new thread asking for a shop recomendation near you. Someone may know of a soob-friendly mechanic. Is there a DTC after this happens? Even with no CEL, there could be a pending code. Have the computer scanned and post any codes here. If the car has a MAF sensor, those sometimes have an intermittent failure inside. Also, a common failure point is old knock sensors, they can kill power and might not cause a check engine light. It's one area where cheap ebay sensors work for most people. Not hard to swap either if you want to just try something. Any oil on the plug wire boots? leaking valve cover gaskets might put oil on the plugs causing missing. Old wires sometimes arc in moist/rainy weather too.

no question GD's recommendation would be a no brainer. I have also read the Walmart synthetic BLEND stuff is good - also cheap. I had to have my trans rebuilt when it ate 2nd gear. Local tuner guys put amsoil severe gear in it - seems OK. In the past, Redline Lightweight Shockproof worked well. many people swear by the Motul GD mentioned, $$$ many people report the synchros don't like most full synthetic lubes.

yeah, I think the ground clearance is one factor as well. CAFE rules are crazy and having fewer 'cars' and more 'trucks' helps you with 'corporate fuel economy' rules.

what was the code that threw the CEL?

well, I don't recall what the complaint was, other than asking how to remove it. how many miles are on it?, Personally, I'd probably rebuild the solenoid before putting it back on if it's a typical Denso. If it's one of the new planetary starters, I'd lube the pinion shaft or w'ever it's called.

thanx GD sorry for the thread hijack Leola

although Impreza line-centric, there are threads like "what suspension parts fit my car" (or similar) at nasioc.com

yikes, maybe later this spring or summer - in the middle of moving house selling/buying/moving right now. there's gonna be a tricky bolt/screw to reach IIRC? how do you feel about a killer b pan? unnecessary and too expensive?