Jump to content
Registrations, locked accounts, etc ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations, locked accounts, etc

1 Lucky Texan

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10142

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    105

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. 1 Lucky Texan
    there's a little info on the different alarm systems at www.cars101.com did you get an owner's manual? that's all I got, others here will probably have details.
  2. 1 Lucky Texan
    bgirls - if the car can be driven safely, take it to a car parts retailer and have them scan the ECU for trouble codes. there could be more than one. List them here for us. they will look like P0420 or similar ( P x x x x )
  3. 1 Lucky Texan
    first, here's a chance for an upgrade - check www.crutchfield.com second, this Forum and www.subaruoutback.com have classified ad sections. post a WTB (want to buy) and maybe someone has a unit they pulled-out when they upgraded, or, they can pick one up from a wreck, etc. you might also check www.car-part.com for a used unit
  4. 1 Lucky Texan
    knock sensor, plug wires, rodent damage, water in gas.... scanning for codes could help a lot.
  5. 1 Lucky Texan
    um, OK, if the ABS light is on, you could have a bad sensor or wiring to a sensor at one of the wheels. On older cars, there could just be some rush on the sensor. if you want to disable ABS, that may require taking a connector loose somewhere. maybe I'm confused.
  6. 1 Lucky Texan
    when did the first CrossTreks come out? Folks say they are underpowered.
  7. 1 Lucky Texan
    I think you may also need to add a little oil with parts like a compressor being replaced - research that. if you suspect leaks elsewhere in the system, put dye in there too. Or let an a/c specialist shop use their sniffer.
  8. 1 Lucky Texan
    older models from the 90s have had crank sensors fail with temp. that is not an expensive part to replace, but , you may have a bad connection to it or a bad ground so, triple check that first. Even look in the connector to it for a pushed-back pin. I even read of a guy that cleaned debris off his sensor and cured misfires....?
  9. 1 Lucky Texan
    I wouldn't rule out a bad knock sensor. have you scanned for pending codes?
  10. 1 Lucky Texan
    not sure what you'll find, but folks seem happy , in general, with www.car-part.com . you might try LKQ or even ebay and Craigslist. maybe call around some local shops and find-out if there's a local shop that does rebuilding - maybe yours can be rebuilt?
  11. 1 Lucky Texan
    ^^^^^^ +1 I was complaining about trapped air to a mechanic once and he said there's Toyota that requires filling through a hose first - it isn't rare or a Subaru-only issue. Purging air out seems tricky on certain engines. An old Honda I had , had a bleeder screw (like a brake caliper type) I had to loosen, then begin filling with coolant and close the screw when coolant shot out.
  12. 1 Lucky Texan
    if it never did this before the work you outlined, double check battery and any other electrical connections that may have been disturbed. how old is the battery? will it behave this way warm or cold? One thing with cold engines, a failed start can leave a lot of unburned fuel in the cylinder as the ECU is using engine temp. reading to 'choke' the a:f mixture with xtra fuel, then, it does it again on any subsequent start. THis can be severe under some instances - I read of a guy with a Ford pick up that would start the car on cold mornings, drive thru a gate and turn the engine off, go to close the gate, come back and the car was so flooded, he had to hold the gas pedal to the floor. In fuel injected cars, holding the accelerator pedal on the floor while cranking signals the ECU to withhold fuel - it's the 'clear flood' procedure. I guess you could try that is the symptoms seem worse when cold. If they seem worse when hot, I dunno, maybe a weak battery....?
  13. 1 Lucky Texan
    perhaps there is a wiring problem from the engine temp sensor? any sign of rodent damage or possibility of a pinched wire? Can you measure the correct value from the ECU? the 4 things I guess I might try; measure or inspect or find a way to bypass/parallel the eng. temp. sensor's wiring get the nose of the car up, try to burp-out more air....get the rpms up to 3-4k a coupla times after the t'stat opens. bypass the heater core with a piece of hard pipe try another ECU
  14. 1 Lucky Texan
    yeah, look for Nachi bearings on Amazon. decent prices look on the present bearing closely to double check the number. the only bearing I know about is for the H6's serpentine system and it's 6203 like this; https://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bearing-17x40x12-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B0045E0E8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522674228&sr=8-2&keywords=6203+nachi but they have several sizes
  15. 1 Lucky Texan
    dig around on Amazon, pretty sure there's BT and wi-fi devices for iphones too.
  16. 1 Lucky Texan
    ELM327 BT adapter device with an app like Torque running on a smartphone would get you live data - post it and one of the gurus here may spot something helpful. those adapters aren't expensive.
  17. 1 Lucky Texan
    not sure where it would lead you but, wonder if a little spray of starter fluid, or even a little propane from an un-lit handheld torch would make the engine smooth-out at idle? or, get worse? problem with fuel regulator or damper??????
  18. 1 Lucky Texan
    ^^^ good post it has to be tough working on old, rusted, or beat-up gear. But experienced pros should be able to take that into account on the estimate. I might pay for the new part. But they can chalk the labor up to a learning experience.
  19. 1 Lucky Texan
    Quentin, while you are working on this issue - always check coolant level in the radiator itself, don't trust the 'level' in the overflow bottle to refelct actual cooling system volume. also, has coolant ever been pushed out of the overflow?
  20. 1 Lucky Texan
    maybe cycle the key fob lock/unlock a coupla times?
  21. 1 Lucky Texan
    it's steel into steel so, just put 130 ftlbs on it. I suppose a 'dot' of threadlocker would be OK ?
  22. 1 Lucky Texan
    I just have 2-3 oddball things to contribute I think that car has 2 temp sensors, one for the gauge only, the other is for the ECU - did the correct one get changed? (it's possible it has newer style with both sensors in one unit) I wonder if the heater core is clogged? The circuit that flows through is needed so the t'stat works correctly. As a test, you can bypass the heater core and loop the 2 hoses together is the 'jiggle pin' in the t'stat at the top (12 o'clock position)?
  23. 1 Lucky Texan
    tell us more about this - what was the donor vehicle you got the trans from?
  24. 1 Lucky Texan
    some folks just remove and toss that sleeve away - some popular lubes are incompatible with that rubber and cause it to swell.
  25. 1 Lucky Texan
    look for an NTN stamped on it; https://goo.gl/images/65emsN http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/216714-clicking-while-turning-identifying-oem-axles.html
×
×
  • Create New...