1 Lucky Texan

why the hedgasket work? leaking externally, or was there an internal leak into the coolant? overheating events? how many and how severe? kinda wondering if the tensioner was the source of the knock sound, but not sure why it stopped. How old is the tensioner? If re-used, was it compressed very slowly? Any oil on tiop of it's cylinder? it can sound a lot like rod knock - but it may get quieter with RPMs or kinda come-and-go at different RPMs. Rod knock usually get louder and more agressive with higher RPMs. do you recall what it sounded like? misfiring in #3 dumped unburned fuel into exhaust. Cat may be damaged and blocking exhaust now. Dunno why the misfiring - valve seals? lots of guessing, sorry = hope someone else has better ideas.

seems weird, dunno that I have read of that specific set of problems unless there has been some non-OEM re-wiring of something. the A/C compressor running with defrost is the main thing you need to prevent fogging so, if there's a a/c issue - that 'may' be part of the problem. almost seems like 2 different issues. hope someone with experience with the older cars chimes in.

might be some similarity to instructions for cabin air filter change in 2nd gen ? check cars101.com . or youtube videos?

swing by a parts store and see if they can connect to it?

I think that's behind the glove box - but toward the centerline of the car. Hopefully, someone else will respond.

maybe number 17 here; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/climate/cooling_unit/illustration_1/ not sure if I have the right model, probably similar though.

you won't save any measurable amount in FWD. the frictional stuff is still turning and the xtra mass of the parts is still on-board.

!!!!! is it some kind of local pick-up arrangement or do you ship them out!

2 things if not successful - try HOLDING the pedal to the floor. That signals a 'clear flood' routine and the ECU will hold-back fuel in case the car is flooded. This can crop-up with folks who drive a cold car a short distance, turn it off to close a gate or garage door, then try to restart - uncommon but.....? on the other side, you could try some spraying some starting fluid in to see if it's fuel starved. might be worth scanning for pending codes.

probably not it's the box under the hood on the left side - US drivers. (some older soobs had a small fuse block on/near the right strut tower I think - not sure when they switched) it 'should' presently be empty and a spare fuse of any size can be used in the slot. 'probably' labeled FWD check both places, if you have an owner's manual, look in the spare/emergency tire use section.

both the manual and auto have some neutral safety type wiring. Try starting in Neutral 'popping' the brake pedal once or twice if auto, if 5 spd, try 'popping' the clutch pedal. older denso starters do often need new contacts in the solenoid - kits are available for that. if it's cranking but not starting, maybe aftermarket parts or maybe oil on the plug boots ???

you might try cleaning it if there is a lot of metallic debris on them, they can be intermittent - but, it is quite old now, replacement is good idea. same for knock sensor, they crack and can cause loss of power. here, it seems inexpensive knock sensors from ebay work well for many people.

skip to about 3:00

you must check inside the radiator itself (safely!) - don't trust the level in the overflow bottle to accurately reflect actual coolant volume. unrelated to factories or anything external to the car EXCEPT, IF you have failing radiator fans, stop-&-go driving or waiting for trains, idling for long periods, etc. will cause overheating. But it;'s the failing fan that is the real issue. DO NOT drive the car if it is regularly overheating - get it checked-out by an experienced Subaru mechanic.

2 if open rear diff 2.5 or less with viscous rear diff lol

should be a sticky for on-line FSM links at the top of every generation forum

what car do you have?

maybe whoever you sold the Toy to failed to transfer the title - it can easily happen in some States.

Up till about 2015, the STi spring rates weren't spectacular. 15+ STi's have fantastic suspension. Almost so good that you have to spend a LOT on coils to improve upon it significantly. We put $1800 Tein coils on a 2016 Hyperblue and although it lowered it, the handling and ride was frankly about the same. KING springs are VERY nice and are our go-to for performance springs. If you can find some take-off 15-17 STi suspension would say get those. They will drop your car about an inch. Yes they fit the GR chassis. GD awesome post !

nasioc would be a good place to search for that info.

nvrmd

maybe a pin pushed-back in that injector's connector?????

Group N rubber suspension parts would sorta be in between stock and urethane. you might look around at NASIOC for some wrx take-offs. Folks upgrade and sometimes have low-use parts for sale. I don't know any specifics but, best upgrade I think was my SPT springs on my WRX, about 3/4" lower, less squat and dive, better cornering..., so, maybe Subaru offered some for 2010?

might be able to get a part number digging around at www.opposedforces.com or by calling a dealer I guess?

if the lower hose is very hot, could be a partially clogged radiator I guess.