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copper head-gaskets i n a ea82t


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ok so i am going to put the copper head-gaskets in soon mine just went

 

out going to use the 3rd jen heads with a Closed deck block

 

o ring how do you know if it needs one or not?

 

yes i know ej it.... dont want to

 

 

head studs! I want them but is it worth it?

 

& ware do i find them:-\

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If you're willing to go through all the trouble of that - why not just do a proper head gasket job, at least try that first?

 

Mill the heads, use Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets and add one step to increase the final torque value 5-10 pounds. If you're wanting to go all out have the block machined flat too, but that sounds ridiculously insane, but so is copper head gaskets and all this work.

 

Done right the engine will only be limited by you, your maintenance and care of the engine. Don't let it overheat, over boost, monitor EGT's, etc.

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ok so has aney one used the copper head gaskets?

 

going to get the copper head gaskets 4 the same price of the Fel-Pro.

 

 

good advice!

 

(Done right the engine will only be limited by you, your maintenance and care of the engine. Don't let it overheat, over boost, monitor EGT's, etc.)

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O-ring the block and use whatever (OEM or Fel-Pro) head gasket you like. You need something that is going to bite into the fire ring of the gasket and reinforce it. The copper will just leak coolant and be a pain in the butt. You also need to to go with studs but they are a very odd size (11mm x 1.25) and as such are very expensive.

 

You will still collapse ring lands if you boost much over 10 or 12 psi though. That's the next weakest link.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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where are you finding copper gaskets, and that cheap. i can get fel-pro gaskets for about $25 a pop.

 

 

i know thats why i'm asking so much about them :rolleyes:

 

very odd size studs $600 sumthing if i rember right

 

how do i O-ring the block?

Edited by AWD TURBO!
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Short answer - *you* probably can't. You need an engine machine shop that has or can build the milling cutter to cut the groove for the stainless steel braided wire. It has to be cut with about .005" of the wire above the deck and just inside the OD of the gasket's fire ring (they will need the gasket for reference). The groove is about .002" thinner than the OD of the wire so the wire will be pinched slightly. Then you seat the wire with a soft-faced hammer and bevel the ends where they meet up at a 45* angle.

 

The groove can be cut with a fly-cutter and a drill press if you grind the right cutting tip for it and are very careful about how it's lined up, etc. Layout and setup of the process are very critical - you don't get a second chance with an aluminium block. Better to leave this one for the experts. If you did try to do it yourself you would want to practice on some scrap aluminium before you did the real thing. Not that it can't be done, but I'm not sure *I* would even attempt it unless I had some scrap engines to practice on and didn't really care if I got the first few attempts wrong. Wire diameter, fire ring clamp force, etc are both variables and there are as many opinions on the subject as there are people that have done it. Experience counts for a lot and you have none (for that matter neither do I - I've seen it done, and read enough about it to know how I would go about doing it - but I haven't done it myself - just no need).

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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got to work on the Subaru the turbo is bad it is putting water in the oil didn’t get much but it’s on the oil fill cap so time 4 a new turbo & a flush:-\

 

gd thank you I have a few ea82t sitting on the floor in my shop one with bad block.. think i will talk to my ex gf's dad if the block will fit on the bridge port

 

do all of the ea82t have a Closed deck block?

 

but i think after i get a new turbo a megga squrt and Datsun Z 300cc fuel injectors from http://osidetiger.com/reconditionedinjectors.aspx with fel-pro hg ill be dun with the ea and do a ej 20t

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We don't suggest EJ swaps for no reason... Your going to dump $500 or more into the EA and blow it up just like the rest of us have (multiple times.... 6 or 7 personally, I lose count). The money spent on the EA will buy your EJ swap if you can do the work yourself. If your not a boost addict, you could build a good driver with the EA, just keep the boost down and don't rev it to the moon. I still own a EA turbo wagon and it makes a great daily driver, you just can't get carried away with it.

 

I spent $300 on a 91 turbo legacy, put almost 10,000 miles on it in the legacy and then swapped it into my 88 GL10. The entire swap was only about $200, and I put a non turbo EJ in the legacy and sold it for $800. So really I payed nothing for my swap and still pocketed a few bucks (I had the n/a EJ all ready).

 

Why bother, polishing turds still ends with turds no matter which way you look at it. On the other hand, I have a fresh rebuilt EA-82T .010 over with 1500 miles on it if you want to start fresh.... lol.

 

Just my $.2

Scott

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I love my ea82t but I also hate it. Why you ask? because it's a compromise engine. When Subaru needed a new engine they just added cam boxes to the ea81. the 3 port heads are a band aid fix too. they breathe a bit better than the two port but not that much. basically if you compare the power of an ej18 to an ea82t the ej is making the same power with no turbo and more torque. The EJ is a clean sheet of paper engine with no adapters to make it run. this is why I'm not going to dump lots of money into my ej82t to make power I will wait and when it goes (not if) Ill put something other than an ea in its place,

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I love my ea82t but I also hate it.

 

I feel your pain. My wagon died with a loud bang(piston through the block). It was............hmmm, how can I put this,.........unpredicted, to say the least. It will either be back to the drawing board or the car gets the ax.:dead:

 

-Patrick

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