I got a EA82 suspension set from a car that that had been sitting in a field for a while.The right front brakes were seized up about about as good as whats possible.the pads were frozen to the rotor,the pads were rusted to caliper,and the piston on the caliper is seized.What is the best way to free up a stuck caliper piston?

 

Ive tried hitting it,spraying with PB blaster, using a c clamp on it,but it still wont budge.

when I have one that bad, I throw it in the scrap pile and buy a new caliper the cylinder bore will be scarred most likely, and a complete rebuild of the caliper would be "iffy" at best...

I got a EA82 suspension set from a car that that had been sitting in a field for a while.The right front brakes were seized up about about as good as whats possible.the pads were frozen to the rotor,the pads were rusted to caliper,and the piston on the caliper is seized.What is the best way to free up a stuck caliper piston?

 

Ive tried hitting it,spraying with PB blaster, using a c clamp on it,but it still wont budge.

 

Hi,

I guess you know that you can't just squeeze the piston back in, yopu must turn it clockwise back in.

just in the case you did not know this

Hi,

I guess you know that you can't just squeeze the piston back in, yopu must turn it clockwise back in.

just in the case you did not know this

 

Good point

how do you turn it?

how do you turn it?

 

Caliper piston rotating tool. About $5 to $10 at any auto-parts store.

 

There are also tools that can rotate the piston while applying pressure - some VW's and others pretty much require this.

 

If it's rusted like that it's probably junk as mick noted - though it depends on how far down the rust goes - if the pads were thick and the rust is only near the top of the cylinder and the top of the piston it should be ok at least for the first half of the pad life...... If you really want to free it up you'll probably have to heat it with an O/A torch and then dowse it with penetrating oil. You could also throw it in a bucket of ATF and leave it for a couple weeks. That might help. I keep used ATF around for such things.

 

GD

how do you turn it?

 

hi,

i have used needle nose pliars to turn them , open to 1 tip in each notch of the piston and turn it, if they are really stuck this might not work. but if you just squeeze it it will destroy the emergency brake parts.

Unless I tossed them, I should have a set of front calipers back in the corner of the garage. You can have them if willing to pay shipping. PM me if interested.

Got it figured out.Major facepalm moment.It started going in as soon as I started turning it.

fronts turn in, you got it.

 

if you ever need to rebuild they are really easy. pull the piston out, replace one orings around the piston then the boot/clip and you're done. some newer ones don't even use a clip so two parts to rebuild.

Ok now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. The brakes have pressure when I pump it up,but if I let off then press again the pedal sinks to floor.Ive checked for leaks, but I can't seem to find any.I dunno I only touched the front brakes,so Ive only bled the front brakes.I wonder if I should bleed the rears?

 

Any ideas on how to get my brakes back?It sucks trying to stop right now.To stop I have to down shift and pull the E brake, while squeezing what little braking power I can get from the brakes..

You need to do a full system bleed - starting with the master cylinder first and working your way in from the farthest point in the system. The procedure is MC, left-rear, right front, right rear, left front.

 

GD

how do you bleed the MC?

 

Never mind found the screw...

Edited March 27, 201016 yr by Uberoo

F**K S*** ******** went to go bleed the left rear and the F****ing bleeder broke Off!!*S***T Now What.Tried the other one but it seems just as stuck so I down want to mess with it.Crap.

I've never had that happen but in the rust belt I've heard of such things from other members - you will likely have to remove the MC and either replace it or drill that bleeder out. I would probably just go buy a new MC or get a used one from the JY. IIRC, the MC's aren't that expensive brand new.

 

GD

no wheel cylinder.

no wheel cylinder.

 

hi,

you are going to have to take the rears off and repair or replace the cylinders, you have to be able to bleed the air. lot of guys put discs in back if the parts available, if not now, those cylinders are cheep get two and be on the road.

how do you turn it?

 

I should give you points for not knowing that :-\

 

But we dont do that here.

There is a reason I changed my signature from "subaru master" to "subaru wheeler".Im just some guy who goes and beats on my subaru in the woods.There is lots of "little" things I don't know about them...

This is your first brake job?

And you've been here for 4yrs....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Really, I'm just giving you a hard time cause you always ask for it

Why don't you get some better calipers from Pull N Save? They'd probably be safer, too.

Or a better master cylinder.. whatever.

bleed the line at the wheel cylinder by undoing the line. i have done it this way to work around a broken bleeder. its not 100% but definately better tnan no brakes.

 

if your car is manual transmssion, hold down the clutch so fluid can move through thte hill holder to the rear.

I've never had that happen but in the rust belt I've heard of such things from other members -

 

GD

 

 

virgin...

do you still have to hold down the clutch when the hill holder is disabled?