Lardog Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I recently bought a 1992 Loyale wagon. I have also purchased a 4" lift from SJR Lifts and was wondering if anyone has some pics of how they extended they're steering. I hope to be putting the lift kit on in a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I have no pics of it, but just unbolt the steering knuckle near the firewall, cut it in half, and weld it with pipe to fit. Be sure to use mild, low-carbon steel, and weld 'er up very well!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardog Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 Thanks for the help. That gives me a better thought on how it is to be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 literally cut it in half.insert it into the size of tubing appropriate(however big your lift is)in your case ,4"......then weld up.if the cuts are square on your tubing, it should come out fairly square all around, it is ok if the tubing is a little bigger than the shaft, as it will rest up against the base of the joints........my first one i used a tie rod tensioner from a 1950's ford...... cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardog Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 Thanks again I will post some before and after pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 It can help to drill holes in the tubing on the ends where the shaft will be inserted and plug-weld through the holes to the shaft. This will give it more strength. Some folks have had steering linkages break after extending them so as mentioned be careful about how you weld it - strength before beauty in this case . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 if you use the proper equipment, and materials, there is no need to plug weld anything.if your arms, and hydraulic assist can tear the linkage after it being done properly, you have way bigger issues to address ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Make sure you have both pieces of this cut shaft in the car, and tack it in there. As it won't need to be exactly 4" longer (in my experience). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 If you can find both a ps and a non ps linkage, you can combine them for a weld free extension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 if you use the proper equipment, and materials, there is no need to plug weld anything. True - but there's a lot of people with 110v welder's and flux-core out there as well as no knowledge on how to properly prep and weld such a joint. Not knowing how he's going about it I figured it can't hurt to have him over-do it a bit. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 everything you see in my build thread is done with a 110 v welder with .035 flux core.......... no root passes........so whatever....cheers, brain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 And you know how to weld and what makes a decent looking weld vs. a pile of slag-included crap. Not everyone that is just starting out with that setup does - it's the most common home shop setup but a lot of folks that buy them have no real experience with welding. I know I didn't when I got my first welder. Luckily I've never had any of my welds break and cause and accident, but looking back on some of the stuff I did with that harbor frieght 110v..... I just got lucky. That and for the things I thought were important I had a friend with a 220v gas setup weld them for me. It has been my experience that it takes more skill to run a 110v flux machine than a larger gas equipped unit. Just because of the low power and the potential for slag inclusion on the welds. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 you could cut in half, mill down ends of both pieces on a lathe to match the ID of a tube of similar diameter, press fit in, and then weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 And you know how to weld and what makes a decent looking weld vs. a pile of slag-included crap. Not everyone that is just starting out with that setup does - it's the most common home shop setup but a lot of folks that buy them have no real experience with welding. I know I didn't when I got my first welder. Luckily I've never had any of my welds break and cause and accident, but looking back on some of the stuff I did with that harbor frieght 110v..... I just got lucky. That and for the things I thought were important I had a friend with a 220v gas setup weld them for me. It has been my experience that it takes more skill to run a 110v flux machine than a larger gas equipped unit. Just because of the low power and the potential for slag inclusion on the welds. GD somewhere in there is a compliment.i just know it........:grin:back to the subject at hand... i guess stating that one who knows HOW to weld, would have the ability to do it with a 110 welder.hopefully the original poster got what he needed before we stated bantering back and forth..... cheers,brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 literally cut it in half.insert it into the size of tubing appropriate(however big your lift is)in your case ,4"......then weld up.if the cuts are square on your tubing, it should come out fairly square all around, it is ok if the tubing is a little bigger than the shaft, as it will rest up against the base of the joints........my first one i used a tie rod tensioner from a 1950's ford...... cheers, brian sorry to correct you but the steering shaft is at a slope so its not as long as the lift, also on the 4" SJR lift the engine block is 3" tall , dont remember length but its extended less then 3" , also the swaybar shaft is a good size to use for the extension shaft material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollie715 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 (edited) sorry to correct you but the steering shaft is at a slope so its not as long as the lift, also on the 4" SJR lift the engine block is 3" tall , dont remember length but its extended less then 3" , also the swaybar shaft is a good size to use for the extension shaft material Hi Scott, I was thinking just the opposite, but after drawing a quick sketch myself, I see you are right. I tried to delete this comment, but it looks like I can only edit it. Edited April 8, 2010 by Rollie715 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 sorry to correct you but the steering shaft is at a slope so its not as long as the lift, also on the 4" SJR lift the engine block is 3" tall , dont remember length but its extended less then 3" , also the swaybar shaft is a good size to use for the extension shaft material well ,i am pretty sure that each case will be different(per lift manufacture)....regardless....i (three times now) have done just what i stated above... i have also gathered several steering shafts at the yard, and conglomerated them together....for the 6 inch lift i had on lilly. cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 (edited) [ATTACH]8096[/ATTACH] sorry to correct you but the steering shaft is at a slope so its not as long as the lift, also on the 4" SJR lift the engine block is 3" tall , dont remember length but its extended less then 3" , also the swaybar shaft is a good size to use for the extension shaft material haha. Sorry to correct you, Scott, but you mean it's longer than the lift (3") at that point, right? (a^2)+(b^2)=(c^2) where c is the linkage length, a is the horizontal measurement and b is the vertical rise. [ATTACH]8095[/ATTACH] so with the 3 inch lift at the engine crossmember the equasion for the length would be: c = [(a^2)+(b^2)+6b+9]^(1/2) anybody have a graphing calculator and tape measure? Make sure a and b are in inches. Or you could just measure, cut and weld... but I like to calculate... (nerd) Edited October 5, 2010 by kanurys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 [ATTACH]8096[/ATTACH] Sorry to correct you, Scott, but you mean it's longer than the lift (3") at that point, right? No I ment what I said, from experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I don't doubt your experience. I think we're talking about two slightly different things. Anyways, you're right that the amount you add to the the shaft is slightly less than 3 inches. I was saying that the total length (your original statement) is longer that 3". Just a simple miscommunication. None the less, the numbers and equation still hold true. I'm just about ready to do mine... just waiting for the mail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantis_Toboggan Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 The angle is not in only one dimension. If you make the length of the steering rack one axis, and have another axis to be level with the length of the car, you'll see that it may indeed be shorter because it is pointing, in one axis, towards the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bash Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Axis and FORMULAS? Heck, I was just giong to cut mine in half stick in a solid rod bolt it back on, tack on some welds, pull it off and weld it solid. Looks like I'm gona have to get the wifes sister to run some calculations for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantis_Toboggan Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Axis and FORMULAS? Heck, I was just giong to cut mine in half stick in a solid rod bolt it back on, tack on some welds, pull it off and weld it solid. Looks like I'm gona have to get the wifes sister to run some calculations for me. Internet land is funny like that. Nothing beats trimming and fitting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Axis and FORMULAS? Heck, I was just giong to cut mine in half stick in a solid rod bolt it back on, tack on some welds, pull it off and weld it solid. Looks like I'm gona have to get the wifes sister to run some calculations for me. Bingo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 That's probably what I'll end up doing, too. But I'll also measure to see how close my calcs are - just for fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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