olivia123 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I have a problem with the front brake driver’s side caliper on my 1998 outback wagon. I’m an older guy and back in the day we always said don’t ever just replace the caliper on one side that it would just blow out the other side. Is this still the way people think about it and specifically do any of you just replace one side on your Subaru? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I haven't heard that recommendation before. I replaced just one front caliper on my 2000 Outback and the other side didn't blow (yet). I mean if the other side has mechanical problems like a worn seal around one of the pistons etc maybe it could start leaking afterward if you're really stepping on the binders, but in that case the caliper had issues to begin with and replacing the opposite caliper did not cause it to 'blow'. Now I personally would not replace just pads or a rotor on one side only, but the caliper as long it is the same replacement I don't see an issue with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I haven't heard that recommendation before. I replaced just one front caliper on my 2000 Outback and the other side didn't blow (yet). I mean if the other side has mechanical problems like a worn seal around one of the pistons etc maybe it could start leaking afterward if you're really stepping on the binders, but in that case the caliper had issues to begin with and replacing the opposite caliper did not cause it to 'blow'. Now I personally would not replace just pads or a rotor on one side only, but the caliper as long it is the same replacement I don't see an issue with that. Ditto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Calipers can pretty easily be rebuilt if it's a seal failure, etc. I think the reason people no longer replace both very often is that failure's are really rather rare with these. It is not uncommon to see a 25 y/o subaru with original calipers and no issues in that respect. Properly maintained they *should* last the life of the car. Accidents happen though...... That said, if it's been sitting and the caliper has failed due to rust (water in the fluid - it's hydroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere) I would replace both. I have occasion to work on stuff that's been sitting for years, and most recently I just did the rear brakes on my '69 GMC - one cylinder had failed. I replaced both and bled out the nasty old fluid...... I'm just saying there are circumstances - depending on the nature of the failure - where I would replace all the "good-for-the-moment" parts on the other wheel because I know they are at a higher probability of failure. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legback Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I replaced one semi siezed caliper and it felt sooo good that I replaced the other one for the sake of symetry. I wish I'd taken the time to paint them! Mine from Napa were an oily natural finish when I got them. The oil wore off and now they're a shade of rust. Should have painted. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, maybe I still can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Subaru sells the reseal kits with the red niglube packets for maybe $25 or so for a kit that will do both calipers. I have used this kit a couple times. It isn't hard to do but getting the rubber boots around the pistons to seat properly seemed really tricky and a pain to me for some reason. Actually I think I did it wrong because that was one of the calipers I had to replace later because one of the pistons siezed (I think water got behind the rubber boot that I didn't install right). I have seen some calipers where water or something got into them. Then the piston is all pitted up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StructEngineer Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Replacing one side does NOT increase the pressure on the other. The rationale is that new PADS may grab significantly differently than old worn ones. Hence it may make make the car try to spin more than usual under a heavy brake. Just replacing one caliper shouldn't be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allpar Mod Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I have heard that also, but not for a long time. I replaced both calipers on the front of my '99 OBW in the spring as one had one frozen piston and the other side worked ok, but I didn't like the way it looked. My experiences are generally that if one caliper goes, the other is not too far behind. You definately need to replace pads on both sides if you only replace or rebuild one. That should be a given. If you're taking the time to do one side, do both now and save the trouble down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Yea, I am getting up in years, but heard back in the day about replacing both, when only one was definitely bad. As others have written earlier on this thread, that doesn't apply any more. I have replaced just one caliper, and the results were fine. It is an easy do it your self job, if you are handy with a wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I'm about to do my pads/rotors on my '98 OBW. Do you have to rotate the pistons in like on my Brat??? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I'm about to do my pads/rotors on my '98 OBW. Do you have to rotate the pistons in like on my Brat??? Steve Just use a "C" clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. It prolly has two pistons, so alternate back and forth between the two, as you depress the pistons. Suggest using antisieze on the slides where the pads reside. When I changed my pads, I bled out the old brake fluid, and replaced with new. My old brake fluid had the color of iced tea, so I knew it was time for a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 When I changed my pads, I bled out the old brake fluid, and replaced with new. My old brake fluid had the color of iced tea, so I knew it was time for a change. Mine is more like diet coke so its prolly time for me also Yeah, it is duel-piston. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Mine is more like diet coke so its prolly time for me also Yeah, it is duel-piston. Steve Yea, figured it was duel piston. To change the pads, just remove the lower bolt on the caliper. The caliper will then pivot up and out of the way on the top stud, exposing the pads. Perhaps you already know this. Changing pads on a Subaru is designed so as to be so easy and convenient! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Yea, figured it was duel piston. To change the pads, just remove the lower bolt on the caliper. The caliper will then pivot up and out of the way on the top stud, exposing the pads. Perhaps you already know this. Changing pads on a Subaru is designed so as to be so easy and convenient! Actually, I'm changing the rotors as well so I assumed the calliper was going to have to come off completely. Yeah though, next time when I do just the pads, it should be real quick! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) Actually, I'm changing the rotors as well so I assumed the calliper was going to have to come off completely. Yeah though, next time when I do just the pads, it should be real quick! Steve Steve, If you are unaware, the rotors are removed by screwing small bolts into the two unused threaded holes near the center of the rotor. The threaded holes were made for this purpose, whereby the bolts threading in actually push the rotor off the hub. Just be sure that you have the correct size small bolts to thread into the rotor. I can't remember where they are, but there are small bolts already on the Subaru that can be removed to fit the threaded holes. Maybe, someone on this forum will chime in as to where those bolts are. Update........I seem to remember that the bolt that secures the caliper is the correct size to thread into the threaded holes near the center of the rotor. I hope I am right! Edited November 4, 2010 by Rooster2 additional info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I can't remember where they are, but there are small bolts already on the Subaru that can be removed to fit the threaded holes. Maybe, someone on this forum will chime in as to where those bolts are. they are in the general area of the lug studs, but i have yet to bump into a rotor that needed them to remove it. just lucky or not the rust belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Steve,If you are unaware, the rotors are removed by screwing small bolts into the two unused threaded holes near the center of the rotor. The threaded holes were made for this purpose, whereby the bolts threading in actually push the rotor off the hub. Just be sure that you have the correct size small bolts to thread into the rotor. I can't remember where they are, but there are small bolts already on the Subaru that can be removed to fit the threaded holes. Maybe, someone on this forum will chime in as to where those bolts are. OK, thanks for the heads up! I was expecting the rotors to simply "pop-off" I should have learned my lesson recently when I figured the ball-joints would simply "Drop-out" lol. I'll keep my eyes open for the mysterious small bolts Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Drives me nuts when references say to use an "appropriate size bolt!" :-\ Replaced rear rotors on my wife's Maxima last week--just sprayed PB Blaster in the holes for the lug studs and some more around the hubs from behind and let 'em soak for awhile. Then a bit of tapping with a hammer and a block of wood popped them loose. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatt Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) We have a '98 Legacy Outback and a '99 Legacy GT--- while we have not had caliper problems specifically, one of the problems as these two cars get older has been the caliper brackets....the caliper "slider" bolts have seized in the caliper brackets because the rubber "bellows" that cover the slider bolts have split over the years, allowing water to enter the holes in the caliper brackets that each bolt goes into. That causes the caliper to bind in the bracket, because the slider bolts don't slide properly within those holes. I've had to replace brackets, slider bolts, and the slider bolt "bellows" (which come only as a part of the caliper reseal kit). Edited November 4, 2010 by mwatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 Nice new rotors and pads Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Steve, Nice work on replacing the rotor and pads. I like your liberal use of antisieze on the slides and lug studs. I do the very exact thing. Did you also bleed out the diet coke looking brake fluid with some fresh DOT 3? BTW, I tighten my lug nuts by hand, then after a couple of days of driving, I make sure they are good and tight. Usually, the lugs tighten down just a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Steve,Nice work on replacing the rotor and pads. I like your liberal use of antisieze on the slides and lug studs. I do the very exact thing. Did you also bleed out the diet coke looking brake fluid with some fresh DOT 3? BTW, I tighten my lug nuts by hand, then after a couple of days of driving, I make sure they are good and tight. Usually, the lugs tighten down just a little more. I used the antisieze on the inside of the rotor where it joins onto the hub - trying to make it come off easier next time.... I used a hammer on one of the rotors to separate it WTH - didn't need it anymore.... On second look, the brake fluid wasn't that bad in color - the hydro clutch was worse (blacker). Took some fluid out to compensate for the new pads but left the fluid as is. I thighten my lug nuts with an air wrench Never have problems - let each nut "try" for a few seconds to make sure they are secure. I actually might take the anti sieze off the slides because the pads are still grinding and they need to move freely in the slides to release. Will see how they play out over the week. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Not to be redundant and only to answer Olivia123's question. I generaly find it is only a matter of time before the other caliper will go. It is always the left front first because that is where the master cyl and resevoir is. I've replaced them always one at time in Dodge 1/2 van, Chevy 1 ton truck and always the other seizes up later. With a Toyota truck that had sat a long time, i replaced both including both rear cylinders. Good to go around town then the first time on the interstate the master cyl locked up. It's the proximity of the stuff and if all junk fluid is sucked out thru the line to the unit you replace, then it buys you time. Otherwise the "blood "sets in motion the same corrosion the first one exhibited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 I have to admit I'm cheap and somewhat lazy but with examples of a locked front wheel which just LOCKED at a busy intersection....and have to burn my clutch to get the truck to Move, just move with the tire clawing against the pavement, locked... should have been enough. Of course not so it happened again closer to home where I did the other one. Then the same thing happened again ; it's like a clue. Ther were others. Subaru probably has some other way which -ABS- may hammer them to where my reflections don't apply. However it would be good to find the mate to that caliper, same brand etc and maybe on sale. Then keep it close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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