Goobysoobs Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 So I currently have a 90 5spd legacy wagon but it was hit by a drunk driver who left on foot and I need to basically transplant my motor and tranny into another vehicle. But there isn't a decently priced 5sp body fro sale right now they are all 4eat and one is a spitting image of my car except its 4eat and needs new head gaskets. So I'm wondering if it would be best to wait it out until one does pop up, or to to get that one and do a manual conversion, or to just keep the tranny and swap the engines out. Also just looking for the pros and cons of 4eat vs. the 5 spd manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 The 4EAT is a better tranny. More reliability, same economy, and the ability to do things like paddle shifters and duty-c mods for fullly locked 4WD instead of AWD. Conversions are also possible but I wouldn't - the 4EAT is an awesome transmission in my opinion. I've replaced a TON of 5MT's due to all kinds of failures - mostly bearing failures. I've never had to replace a 4EAT - they are great trannies. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 you're going to get numerous auto bashing replies flooding in after these two comments but i'm in agreement with GD and hold the 4EAT's in high regard. no clutch maintenance, no difference in reliability, and a few positives. the ability to add manual control to the 4WD engagement (impossible with 5 spd), and the lower revolutions when highway driving. i would simply recommend test driving an automatic before deciding which way to go. auto to 5 speed swap is a big job. enough people have done it that it's already detailed for you but it's time consuming. if you can wait, a 5 speed will probably come along. i own both and pretty much always have but if i had to have one it would be an automatic. i've also lived in the DC area and mountains, both get old having a manual trans for me. but i'm strange and all about function and practicality, i get no thrill, ego boost, fun, or fulfillment out of moving a lever which most people do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Oh ok thanks for the input Yeah ShawnW is most likely going to be doing the Work so just wanted to get some info and waiting (will prolly find out monday) on the insurance I have uninsured/under-insured insurance and they will total it out then i'll just buy it back if the person doesn't have it the only prob i see with it now is the guy wasn't listed on the police report and the car he left (as it couldn't drive) was registered to some woman and it's listed as possibly stolen. So not sure how that will work out. And what are these options GD paddle shifters and the solenoid? is that standard on the tranny or no? I mean I'm sure I can go over it with Shawn when the time comes just wondering. Yeah Grossgary I'm more for function as well just had a string of bad auto tranny's with some domestic cars so was always a bit wary of them which is why I was asking. I don't plan on doing too much 4 wheeling with it though I will put outback struts and springs on it to lift it and putting some 15" rims on it to get me where i need to go when I go camping and hunting. And definitely thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I'm not disagreeing w/the above info, but playing the 'devil's advocate' for a minute, I'd add that the 4EAT must be maintained. Heat is a killer. I've personally replaced 3 4EATs and had one rebuilt. So, if shopping for an auto-equipped Subie, ensure you check it out. And, for the record, I have a turbo 4EAT in my turbo'd '90, running double the stock boost and the transmission is holding up great! TD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I'm not disagreeing w/the above info, but playing the 'devil's advocate' for a minute, I'd add that the 4EAT must be maintainedat this age there's 20+ years of unknown maintenance which pretty much affects anything so you're totally right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulwnkl Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I'll chip in my agreement with GD and GG. I do like a manual transmission for various tasks, but for a general getting-around personal transportation device (and in Subarus in particular) I think the 4EAT is the better choice from all points of view mentioned. The point about potentially sketchy maintenance is well-taken, though I'd still recommend the A/T as a more durable transmission overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 ok so what are some things to worry about when test driving and stuff, I mean obviously if it slips it's a no go but what other things might give it away? and by maintained you mean changing the oil every 30k or so? or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruplatt Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Motoring 11 said they prefer Subaru AWD best when it was hooked to the auto. The auto is really good in snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruplatt Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 ok so what are some things to worry about when test driving and stuff, I mean obviously if it slips it's a no go but what other things might give it away? and by maintained you mean changing the oil every 30k or so? or what? Drain and fill every 72000 KM recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 ok so what are some things to worry about when test driving and stuff, I mean obviously if it slips it's a no go but what other things might give it away? check the fluid and check the seller. seriously, the seller will tell me a lot about whether i want to buy a car or not. new fluid would prompt a question about why it has new fluid...could be trying to cover something up or fix something, could be just keeping up with PM. drive it in tight circles, wheel turned at full lock, on dry pavement and make sure it doesn't have torque bind. it'll feel like a braking feeling. smooth shifting too. hiccups, delays, hard shifts, generally aren't a good sign. i'd change the ATF as soon as you get any used auto, no telling how long it's been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 ok thanks I'll keep that in mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 grr the insurance company just called and said my car's value was $1550... wow.... lol I can't find a vehicle in running condition same year or not for that much without serious body rust... lol then they said the salvage value was $500 so if i keep it for my engine I get diddly :/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 You should be able to find a nice 2.5D DOHC subaru with a blown engine... I just picked up a really nice GT for 400, and right now on graigslist near me there's another GT for 600, could probably be talked down. If you can do the engine swap yourself, it leaves you in a good place. $500 sounds steep for the buy back, unless it's a really nice good condition engine, not worth it. You can pick up ej22s much cheaper than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 that's true but most of the car I can part out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 don't take the first offer. find a comparable car for sale and show it to them. the offer may go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 don't take the first offer. find a comparable car for sale and show it to them. the offer may go up. +1 Insurance companies are in the business of making money, not paying reasonable amounts for claims. If possible, find a couple comaparable vehicles, preferably in your geographic region. Also, that buy-back price seems high. Most of the companies that I have (unfortunately) dealt with had a buy-back price based on 10-15% of the valuation of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) Yeah I plan to do that it's cause they said they called dealers and asked what they would charge they said one said 1500 and the other 1700 cause of the miles (248k) But on craigslist I haven't found one for under 2100 haha. and The salvage value they got from calling a company that does salvage auction and that's what they said they'd get for it. at this point I'd be happy for them to settle at $2000 but I'd only get $1000 after the $500 for buyback and $500 deductible (though I may get the deductible back if the person has insurance). Also may have to go with a '94 5spd touring wagon that ShawnW found for $1300(mileage 200k) though it has a new clutch. although I did find a '92 auto for $900(188k) but they said it smokes due to poor compression should I trust it? the other '90 auto for $1000(205k) needs a new head gasket and a new cv joint. any ideas? Edited February 15, 2011 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 ohhh a 95 outback auto was just listed.... they have the 2.2 so that's looking good right now... do they have the same lift as other OBWs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Sorry to disappoint but the '95 Outback was just a Legacy wagon with a fancy paint job. (Not that there's anything wrong with being a '95 Legacy wagon!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) aww i was hoping it would be lifted and negate that work... lol oh well... I guess my main question is if has compression issues will it be hard to fix and will it cost a lot and if other things(mostly if other things that are more $$) that they aren't saying (or don't know about) could be making it smoke? Edited February 15, 2011 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 ohhh a 95 outback auto was just listed.... they have the 2.2 so that's looking good right now... do they have the same lift as other OBWs? not the same lift, but you could add the outback 96 - 98 struts to get it . the fog lights are different as well as the front bumper, but most people wouldn't notice unless they compared them side by side. the piant job makes it look like an outback. 96 outback 5 speed has the 2.2L engine and all of the ''real'' outback stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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