POLL:

 

Which one of these colors would be best suited on Safariwagon? I have a few person favorites, but lets see what everyone else thinks. Keep in mind, these are all Satin.

 

nothin says safari like ivory satin

or khaki

Whatever color you pick, document the process with pictures! I'm interested to see how this rolling it on works out.

Edited April 15, 201411 yr by SmashedGlass

Check out the Trashwagon10 thread, I rolled the entire car in that thread too.

Here is a post from the thread after I painted it and the results with a fine foam roller.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107331-my-95-legacy-trashwagon10/?p=922294

I was thinking Herb Garden or Sage as well. 

 

Rob, I did want to go with the Light sandy color at first, but figured it would be too light or a color.

I am now amassing all the parts I'll need to swap the Auto seat belts to the Manual ones! Thanks Robert! (mm88swrt)

Edited April 17, 201411 yr by TheLoyale

You been busy, more rust in the Loyale than I would have ever guessed.  I think I have some FatMat left over from the Imperial, I'll check and if so you can have it if you haven't already purchased a bunch.

Thanks bud, I could use more Fatmat. Thea bought some for the Bonneville, I'm gonna try to use some of that but I would still need to buy more. Trust me, it'll be put to good use. (I'm not gonna sell this car) Lol..

Do you change pillars and stuff to do the seat belts, or do you just leave that stuff there?

You would remove all the power seat belt stuff and track, then bolt in the manual belt retractor and such, and pop on the manual B-pillar covers. I think that would be about it. The B-pillers should be the same, why would Subaru want to waste money making new steel stampings when they have a warehouse full of the same stuff from 1985.

I was referring to the plastic and such on the pillars, I'm sure the steel wasn't changed. Just didn't know if the slots and junk would matter or just be unsightly. Or maybe you could leave that and put a tiny racecar on there to run up & down

Edited April 17, 201411 yr by rrgrr

Lol, I'll find a 555 Impreza rally car Micro-Machine 

 

But yeah, you do have to change pretty much all the plastic stuff, cause the the B-pillar covers are different, the manual ones have a slot to allow the belt to pass through from the retractor. And if you were to only change those, the plastic piece that runs above the door would look off (Large gap) I suppose if that does bother ya you could leave the rest as is.

I will probably be the only who says it, but I like the red it is now. That olive drab is sweet though. Can't wait to see more progress.

I, too, like the red, but then I'm a bit biased......my wagon is 726 Splendor Red, and though the paint is faded/scratched/dented, that single-stage stuff Subaru painted it with is some really really sturdy paint. Hitting it with a bit of compound and then wax brings it right back to looking new. Wish I could get the whole car repainted with the same s.s. paint.

I was actually a little bummed out when I saw you were going to change it!

Edited April 18, 201411 yr by rrgrr

I know me too. With the mount of welding, the paint by the rockers and wheel arches is going to ruined. I wish I could get the whole car professionally repained, but that would take a lot of green to make it 947 Rudy Mica again. Plus I would also have the change 3 or the 4 doors and possibly the gate (Gate I might be able to save) The two rear doors, the bottoms are just gone on them, I remade them with Sheet metal/Rivets and Bonder years ago and its failing, rust is spreading.

 

Thats why I really want to find a color that really compliments it, I don't want it looking like every Ford Ranger thats sprayed Camo for Duck hunting :/

 

As for progress, I'm gonna try to drop the gas tank today so I can start cleaning up and welding Subapolooza!

Murder it out with satin black

You could go the plasti-dip route until you get the scratch to repaint the original color

I need me 2yrs ago, I had more done on the Skiwagon by this point than I do on this car. The weather needs to Cooperate!

 

Dropped the rear diff and got the gas tank out of the way.

 

 

 

 

Once I clean it up, I'll make the decision one whether or not I need to buy a new one from MillSupply. I'm hoping this one is just surface rust.

 

Do I need to keep this Banana dooker looking thing? Or can I cap off the ports on the fuel tank and call it good? I understand this is for fumes, but there is also a breather line that runs from the Fuel tank to the emissions stuff under the hood. So would this really be needed? Could the tank build to much pressure?

 

he said 'banana dooker'

on the paint color - why not go with the standard Cranberry? close to original color...

 

or Autumn Haze, or Sunset Red...

 

but I am a sucker for the red colors... 2 out of the last 3 have been reds - Rio Red & Mica Ruby

Finally, after long awaited weather, I made some ok progress on the Loyale today.

 

Welded up some rust that I had cut out where the filler neck is and applied 1/8" Dynamat to the entire roof to deaden the sound. Also reglued some of the roof slats with RTV and reinstalled the headliner.

 

 

I'm not gonna grind down these welds as I don't really car about them blending in. Once I painted everything and apply a hard undercoating these would be not noticeable. 

 

 

 

Next up is to tackle this major hole.

 

Need to order some new interior press clips as I had to cut most of them to not damage the headliner.

 

 

Tomorrow I will get started on the rest of the rust war. Happy Mothers Day!

Edited May 11, 201411 yr by TheLoyale

I REALLY like this car and your work. This thread has inspired several projects. Thank you!