Shellhammer13 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Ok so my worst fears are true. My new Subaru legacy needs a head gasket. And I'd like to know if there is any specific brand of head gasket that will be better than others or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Subaru's new updated headgasket that ends in 610. there are others if you do some research, tread carefully given how common these things are to blow headgaskets. get an ebay timing belt kit with all new pulleys and tensioner too - only $150-$200. you don't want those 15 year old pulleys and tensioners in there on an interference engine. none of them are in good shape for high mileage at this point IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) What gary said. May want to do some searching here and on subaruoutback.org to find a how to. If you are able to do the job yourself/with friends it will be cost effective to do the "while you are in there stuff" and remove the engine to do the job. Done properly this repair can easily last another 100k without any additional work. Here is one on a Forester 2.5L DOHC in car: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/ Legacy: http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html Edited January 11, 2012 by Mike104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Make sure the bottom end is good before you bother with the HG's. Pull the oil pan and inspect for sludge/metal, etc. When these overheat - they often destroy the bottom end (rod bearings) in the process. I've seen engines completely seized at 140k due to overheating. And I've seen others that "ran" but had severe damage to the bottom end making HG replacement an expensive waste of time. If you decide to do HG's - PULL THE ENGINE. And use only Subaru OEM gaskets from the dealer. If you do all your gaskets, timing belt and WP, and have the heads resurfaced it's going to run about $350 in parts and machine work. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDfreak Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Make sure the bottom end is good before you bother with the HG's. Pull the oil pan and inspect for sludge/metal, etc. When these overheat - they often destroy the bottom end (rod bearings) in the process. I've seen engines completely seized at 140k due to overheating. And I've seen others that "ran" but had severe damage to the bottom end making HG replacement an expensive waste of time. If you decide to do HG's - PULL THE ENGINE. And use only Subaru OEM gaskets from the dealer. If you do all your gaskets, timing belt and WP, and have the heads resurfaced it's going to run about $350 in parts and machine work. GD Take heed to the bold, as I do believe my EJ25D is experiencing signs of bottom-end failure (sounds like rod knock or spun bearing) and I already had the head gaskets replaced many miles ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Ok so this is what my prices/parts are so far -timing belt $77.19 +tensioner $98.97 +valve cover gaskets $48.65 +cam seals $22.16 +head gaskets $65.94 +head bolts $88.36 +exhaust gasket $11.00 +spark plugs 8.85 each +clutch kit 182.89 +labor $250 ___________________________ $797.27 Ill remember to check the oil pan. Hows that sound am I missing anything? And these parts are all Subaru factory parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 NO head bolts Get NGK 2 dollar green writing plugs at the local parts place. Labor not bad. If pulling the engine (I doubt it) reseal baffle plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Why no head head bolts? And what are the plugs you're talking about? And yes were pulling the engine I'm hiring an acquaintance that works at the Subaru dealership He is certified and gonna teach me as we go so I know my ins and outs of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Don't get the timing belt and tensioner from Subaru. Get a complete timing belt/wp/idler/tensioner kit from "theimportexperts" on ebay. They are well respected and you will get quality parts. No need to get ripped off at the dealer on that stuff. That kit will also include the cam and crank seals and thermostat seal so take those off the dealer list. Get Denso platinum or iridium plugs. About $6.50 each. Clutch kit - Exedy ONLY. Amazon has the best price and free shipping. Here's your dealer list: HG's Intake/Exhaust gaskets Valve cover gaskets and grommets (take VC in with you for a correct match - there's 6 styles) Thermostat Oil seperator plate and bolts (back of engine) NO HEAD BOLTS. They are reused and are not a wear item. Trust me - I know more than your buddy from the dealer. I do this every day. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) I do not see intake gaskets on your list either. or water pump... Last time I was helping do a dohc 2.5, parts were 515 for it all, maybe more if you do the water pump. for sure, no need for head bolts new......re-use the ones on there, who is this dealer? recommending headbolts is a slap in your face. dealers around here may slap people around from what i have seen firsthand by many. is this Ramsey? they suck. are you on https://www.facebook.com/groups/192535348549/ the iowa subaru club facebook? i would get on there ask more about Ramsey, cause that group know more than i do, i refuse to go there, but some on the group have and let me tell you, they will warn you based on their use of that place. Edited January 12, 2012 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I second the $2 NGK plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Lol Jensen imports my mom is the service manger. I still don't know what these plugs are. Elaborate I'm not extremely mechanically inclined this is my first project car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I second the $2 NGK plugs. NOT on a DOHC 25D. Bad idea - they last about 15k miles and then you are doing the socket & wobbly dance trying to get them out and back in again. If he's pulling the engine then invest in the CORRECT platinum plugs and get at least 60k out of them before you have to do that nasty job again . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 seeing this, maybe I should open a Subaru shop here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 And keep in mind I am I high school kid with a budget lol is water pump and intake gasket a neccesity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Wheres here?? Lol bhienen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 and keep in mind i am i high school kid with a budget lol is water pump and intake gasket a neccesity? YES. You need to replace it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Ok ill have to throw that on the list. Thank you. You know I used to be on a jeep forum because I was really big on jeeps. Had 2 grand Cherokees. V8 and inline 6. And you guys are ALOT more helpful than the jeep one lol. I've learned more as much about the 2.5L in three days than I learned about my 4.0L on all my years of having one lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 NOT on a DOHC 25D. Bad idea - they last about 15k miles and then you are doing the socket & wobbly dance trying to get them out and back in again. If he's pulling the engine then invest in the CORRECT platinum plugs and get at least 60k out of them before you have to do that nasty job again . GD Good point. I replace my plugs every time I rotate my tires, or every other oil change. I've never done plugs on a EJ25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 We have adifference of opinion. I prefer the 2 dollar BKR5E-11's I believe. The U groove's with the green writing for DOHC's. Now SOHC's especially after like 2002 or something I prefer the "double platinum" also called "laser platinum". As long as you stick with NGK no matter how fancy you get you're probably o.k. NEVER install BOSCH Platinums in any car thinking there is a benefit. And this is from a VW guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Don't forget the valves! Check the clearances while the engine is out. Shims are 7 each but often have to be ordered. This is important! Check them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Okwill do thank-you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 And keep in mind I am I high school kid with a budget lol is water pump and intake gasket a neccesity? The water pump is an absolute necessity on Subarus. It's driven by the timing belt, if the water pump fails and locks up, the timing belt breaks and valves get bent. Then you get to pull the heads off again and spend another $750- 1,000 in labor and parts to replace the valves. Subaru head bolts don't stretch so there is no need to replace them. Run a wire brush over them to clean the threads then stuff 'em right back in the engine. Three seals on the back of the engine. From left to right: Wrist pin access cover O ring, rear main seal, Oil separator plate. If the rear main isn't leaking don't mess with it, the other two should be replaced. Don't overlook that $1.50 cent O-ring that takes all of 30 seconds to replace. That thing will leak like a beach when it starts leaking. Remove Oil pump. Check the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump. They can loosen and back out then you lose oil pressure and get rod knock. Re-install pump with new O-ring and front crank seal. http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx And since you'll have access, new coolant crossover pipe O rings will prevent future coolant leaks. Coat them with Indian Head gasket shellac and they'll never leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shellhammer13 Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Ok ill look into those parts. I've also got another question. I'm not 100% confident on how "symmetrical" awd works... but I do know that I have 2 tires that don't match. But the matching sets are in opposite corners. Is that ok? I assume not but I might as well ask. They are the same size. Just unmatching tread paterns and set has a little more wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I believe collective wisdom here is that if you take a string (non stretchable string please) and measure the diameter of each tire (yes it takes a little work) and they are all withing 1/4" or circumfrance you're o.k. But the simplest and best is to have all 4 identical and ROTATE them. After AWD is damaged fresh/matching tires won't solve your issue if hard parts have been harmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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