Yep they are stock replacements, they use the same bulb style connectors, but the bulbs are removable on these vs sealed beam. So its a halogen bulb inside a 4x6 housing.

 

That may be your issue. The connectors may not be in the right positions in the plug. I ran into this when I used that type of headlight. Do you know if they worked right before you swapped them out?

I am pretty sure the lights acted the same way even with the original seal beam lights.

 

I really wish I could remember, but I will also check this out and see what I find.

It would be worth checking. And I may be wrong about it, I just know that I had to mess with them on my Brat.

Something I was wondering. The original headlights used two different bulbs. The outer headlights had 3 terminals, while the inner bulbs had 2 terminals.

 

Why would the outers have 3? I don't think they are dual filaments? Shouldn't both sets of lights just be single filament bulbs?

OK, so. I wonder if this is human error and has something to do with running incorrect bulbs.

 

Because, I took a normal sealed beam 35w 3 terminal lamp and plugged it into one of the low beam connectors, Both low beams are on, and both high beams are just barley lit, but high beams then come one when I use the flash.

 

Right now, I am using the bulbs that came with the new lamps. All four bulbs are 3 terminal, which are H4 style. So I would need to place an H7 bulb where the two original High-beams would go and maybe it would work correctly.

*Wishing I still had the stock sealed beams to toss in and see if that solves it* I dunno where I put them, perhaps they got tossed by mistake.

Yea, you're creating a backflow thru the wiring by having those extra 3 pin bulbs where a 2 pin should be.

 

With sealed beams, they are all pinned differntly between the styles, quad rectangle, quad round, single rectangle, single round.

 

Unplug the ones that would be normal hi-beams, try your lights again, both low and hi.

If those work right, you need to get proper bulb for hi-beam. or wire in 3-pin connectors for those, tying into the hi/low circuit of the other lights.

Ok, that makes sense.

 

So would any 2 pin bulb work, electrically? Like this H7.

you can just make your own circuit...

this is just an example

Link

 

I have always done this when upgrading, I trust this more if I go to higher wattage bulbs.

Yep they are stock replacements, they use the same bulb style connectors, but the bulbs are removable on these vs sealed beam. So its a halogen bulb inside a 4x6 housing.

 

that's what I meant by new lights

 

I've had issues in the past where the connectors on the bulbs didn't electrically match up. hot and ground were in different areas, but that was on a combined hi/low bulb. yours should just be two 2-prong bulbs then, yes?

Guess what. I went to Wal-mart and bought new sealed beam headlights H4656 and H4651. Put them in, and everything works correctly! I'm such a dum6ass.

 

Although, now my hopes of running HIDs in this car have been shattered. But really, I do have another idea for running HIDs in this car at a later date.

I also have found this thread kinda interesting to read.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/433027-faqs-halogens-v-hids.html

 

SO as I said before, I have an idea so I can run HIDs in my low-beams and High watt bulbs in my High-beams.

 

What I'm thinking to do.

 

Since the new clear housings I bought support H4 bulbs, I can get an HID kit for H4, problem solved there.

 

Now for the high-beams, since nobody makes a halogen bulb with 2 pins (Except the H7) which is very small. I am going to try and retro fit 9005 or 9006 bulbs into my housings, Since both 9005 and 9006 bulbs are single filament and 2 pin, I am thinking of wiring in a 9005/9006 connector in place of the factory highbeam connector so the bulbs with clip right in.

 

As for making the bulbs work with the housings I have, we'll, I'll have to look more closely into that and see what I come up with.

 

Ultimately, I want to have 5000k HIDs for the Low-beam headlights, and a 100w Halogen bulb for my High-beams. I have this same setup on the Landcruiser, and it lights up everything with all 4 on. I love it.

the high beam housings that I bought for my wagon are an H1 bulb which only has one pin and it grounds through the base of the lamp.

on the left

 

I was able to find a 135w bulb I am going to try out in the high beam coupled with a 55/100W H4 low beam, the 135w will be controlled by its own relay and switch only allowed to be turned on when the other high beam is activated. I will be building my own harness and only using the factory wiring to trigger the relays for the new lights.

 

Ben

Using the stock headlight wiring to run relays for better lighting options, is the way to go.

Glad you got it worked out! I thought that might have been the issue after you posted about the different plugs/terminals. It just made me remember the issue I had.

I agree that sounds like a good idea.

 

Ok just for the sake of conversation, if I were to do this, I think I understand how to wire it.

 

I would Have a lead come from the batt, to a Relay. Whatever #

Then have the Positive leads from the original High-beam wiring (Tie both together) and have that hook to the relay. Whatever #

Then run a lead from the relay to the new lights.

I'm forgetting what to do with the original ground though..?

 

Basically, hook the lights up, like I did with the Hella Supertones. I tapped into the original horn wiring, ran that to the relay, then ran a lead from the batt, I then ran a new + lead from the relay to the horns. And grounded the horns to the chassis.

 

Am I on the right track, or no?

From fuse #9, Red wire is power to PS lights.

From fuse #10, Red/Blue wire is power to DS lights.

Red/White is for the Hi-beams.

Red/Black is for the Low-beams.

This is at the headlight connectors themselves.

 

Need 2 seperate relays here.

R/W to the relay coils - for Hi-beam.

R/B to the relay coils - for Low-beam.

Fused battery + from fuse panel feeds both relay coils + side for each circuit, and does the headlight bulbs themselves..

Or, a seperately fuzed supply could be wired in for just the bulbs themselves.

 

It is easier than it sounds.

I could do this in a few minutes, provided the car was here, and I had all items needed.

Which I do, just need car here.

Edited August 8, 201213 yr by TomRhere

Tom, thanks for the rundown. As most things, they are easier than they sound (Like EA82 timing belt procedure!) My Dad knows electrical, I can wire stuff in the right way and have it work correctly, but some stuff is just *Buzz, over my head* I'm more of a visual person than being told how to do something.

 

Lol, I dunno if the wagon will make the 6hr drive at its currant state Haha!!

 

Status update, I decided, since I have almost no money right now, that I might as well try and work with what I do have. So I am taking the original mid-pipe, I patched where it had cracked and rotted holes, and I also cut the pipe into sections (Removed the crumbling flange) so now I have a Straight pipe with Resonator that is about half as long as the original midpipe.

 

I am going to weld it directly to the Cat tomorrow and then I will add a turn-down pipe so it blows towards the ground vs straight back. I am guessing it will end somewhere right in the center of the car. Once I see how it all sits, I will then see if/how I want to run it out away from the body.

 

This is only temp until I can afford to buy a stick of 1-7/8" and some 90s. My goal right now is to add some back pressure and make it sound a little better, maybe it will run a little better afterwards!

The fox has a similar exhaust set up compared to what it sounds like you want to do. It has one of those street racer fart cans after the resonator though. It sound good though. It has a nice rumble to it.

Here is the temp exhaust I made with what I had. The Header was cracked in several spots (I started thinking it was a Borla Ha!) So I patched it all up with some 18ga I had, I than cut the mid-pipe, and used only the section I wanted, and then stuck a length of tubing on the rear of that. I cut the tube so I could put a 45* bend in it, as I wanted it to point down. Worked good I think!

 

 

 

 

New-age Darth Vador.

 

These are not the correct gaskets, I think these might be for EJ, but I hogged out the holes and made them work.

 

Booyaa.

 

 

 

You know what I am so tired of on this board, everytime you see a for sale thread, it is someone from the PNW, and they never want to ship anything (Local Only) they have an over abundance of this stuff, and they never want to ship it to us in the Mid-west, which is why they HAVE an over abundance of the stuff.

 

I can't get over how many sets of 15" Pugs I've seen get passed around in WA/OR, I'd like to have a nice set of Pugs sometime, but its kinda hard when the locals snatch them up and the seller does not want to take the effort to ship them. Yet I am willing to ship everything to wherever, hmm....

 

And another thing, everytime I do sell something, it goes to someone in the PNW. Why are you buying from someone in the Mid-west, when you can walk down the street and pick 4x as many parts as I'm selling?

 

Folks in the PNW who are NOT willing to ship, should have their own for sale section, so the locals can converse amongst their selfs without getting our hopes up in the rust belt.

 

Rant over...

Edited August 9, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

yep:cool:theres alot of subaru's where i live:headbang:when i ride around sandy u see like 12 ea82 wagons and a few brats some ea81's and some times ea71's and tons and tons of new ones, i have 5 subarus at my house my 85 brat, my dads 78, 78, and 79 brats and a 90 something loyale, the peugeots are rare back here there rare everywhere they got shipped here from france, im lucky i got a set of 14in peugeots for $40:D (when i was watching a peugeot price drop on craigslist to a little above scrap so i gave them a call and got them:headbang:and gave him a crappy set of 13's off ea82 to get to junk yard it looked funnier than hell with a 15in spare peugeot on the right rear and 13 inch subaru rims flipped around the left rear brake cleared because it was off and the right wasn't)

You know what I am so tired of on this board, everytime you see a for sale thread, it is someone from the PNW, and they never want to ship anything (Local Only) they have an over abundance of this stuff, and they never want to ship it to us in the Mid-west, which is why they HAVE an over abundance of the stuff.

 

I can't get over how many sets of 15" Pugs I've seen get passed around in WA/OR, I'd like to have a nice set of Pugs sometime, but its kinda hard when the locals snatch them up and the seller does not want to take the effort to ship them. Yet I am willing to ship everything to wherever, hmm....

 

And another thing, everytime I do sell something, it goes to someone in the PNW. Why are you buying from someone in the Mid-west, when you can walk down the street and pick 4x as many parts as I'm selling?

 

Folks in the PNW who are NOT willing to ship, should have their own for sale section, so the locals can converse amongst their selfs without getting our hopes up in the rust belt.

 

Rant over...

 

QFT Brother!

which is why i dont buy your stuff Tom lol. also, i do need to get some more crap together to send to you rusties...... if i ever get some puggies ill ship em to ya. im slow, but ill do it (kinda like my car:brow:)

Slowly by surely is better than nothing at all! Like Christmas, I know its coming SOMETIME! :-p

 

I need to get another RX style grill, so I can send you one.