Red92 Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 On the broken nipple on the gas tank, do you think i would suffice to just thread in your own and epoxy seal it in.......? I think that could be done for under 5 bucks, and now you are talking shipping a tank from somewhere....that to me does not sound like a cost effective way. fix what you have. for much less. heck shipping cost alone is going to be like 50-100 on a tank. JUST FIX what you have, the car is how may years old, you cant get awesome parts for it anyway so use what you have....my 2.5 cents That epoxy repair is what my Loyale had had done to it... it didn't hold. :-\ And that tank wasn't rusty either, the fitting must have been broken off initially from an impact or botched fuel line replacement. If the tank is already out of the car, I would AT LEAST take the tank to a radiator/gastank shop and have them repair it properly, by brazing on a fitting, instead of using epoxy. Gas tanks are a safety item. If it has pinholes and fittings rusting off already, then I personally would consider it beyond patching. For the peace of mind, I would look for a different tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Agreed. Now, how does one remove the rear seat out of these cars? I took the rear seat out of my Loyale and it was straight forward. But I can not find a way to remove the seat from its pivot point, even the wheel well rear plastic panels can not be fully removed unless the seat comes out (There is no split in the plastic to compenstate for the hinge.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Agreed. Now, how does one remove the rear seat out of these cars? I took the rear seat out of my Loyale and it was straight forward. But I can not find a way to remove the seat from its pivot point, even the wheel well rear plastic panels can not be fully removed unless the seat comes out (There is no split in the plastic to compenstate for the hinge.) there have to be bolts for the actual pivot rods somewhere - either on the seat side, or possibly behind the plastic on the body side (would be a bit of a pain to get to them there, however) tried looking at your pics, but cant really tell (not close enough to see any details) the tailgate on my old truck, the pivot rods were bolted to the tailgate itself, unbolt one side, and the whole tailgate could be removed. Would think that the seat back in this car would be a similar situation, just a matter of figuring out where the pivot rods are bolted on. Wish i could be of more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 I took up the rubber water barrier on the floor, and started looking for rust, found a few spots, I then proceeded with removing some of the hard chassis coating Subaru applied during manufacture. I am now at this point: I will cut most of the damaged metal away and then weld in a new piece of 18ga. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 For those of you who don't check the "Wanted" section. I am looking for a non-rotted 4WD Fuel tank. So if you have one, PM me a picture and I will purchase it ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Looks like you've got a pretty good sized hole there on the driver side, how is the passenger side. Looks pretty good in the pictures, is that really the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yeah, the rest of the floor is solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 For those of you who don't check the "Wanted" section. I am looking for a non-rotted 4WD Fuel tank. So if you have one, PM me a picture and I will purchase it ASAP. Have you checked to see if Car-part.com can locate one close to you? Amaizing sometime what they can find! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Have you checked to see if Car-part.com can locate one close to you? Amaizing sometime what they can find! All they listed were in other states, but I did email one Junkyard they listed with one instock (Supposedly) so waiting on a reply email, and seeing if they will ship. Hoping I can get one somewhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I contacted this company about an '83 style tank, since all they list is '85 and up (Which is sucks, since I don't know if they are listing EA81 or EA82) So we'll see what they say ect. Although, a new Carbed tank is $74 + $24 shipping. That is one hell of a price! I'd pay that in an instance! http://www.tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/301812 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) I contacted this company about an '83 style tank, since all they list is '85 and up (Which is sucks, since I don't know if they are listing EA81 or EA82) So we'll see what they say ect. Although, a new Carbed tank is $74 + $24 shipping. That is one hell of a price! I'd pay that in an instance! http://www.tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/301812 again, those are loyale tanks. anything listed as 85 up is loyale. EA82, not the right stuff. They just don;t make, never did, never will make ea81 stuff like this. All of the good used ones WERE on the west coast, but they have since crushed them all since no value to have a old car on the road anymore. When someone sees us in the midwest pour money into these old ones, I am sure they laugh at us. When all is done, you will have a nice car, but you could buy a 1500 dollar one out west, pay the grand to ship it, and not have to source all these rust repair parts (cost). You are going to spend total of 5g just to get this in halfway driveable reliable and god looking shape. Again, you will have a nice car, but for far less you could have bought one and be driving it. Edited March 8, 2012 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 If the fuel line didn't start dripping, I could have been driving this car right now. I figured since I need to replace all the lines, I might as well go all out and tear everything out and fix it. I drove this car home, it indeed is a driver. Just not when it starts pissing (I had an '81 320i that did the same thing lol!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Anyway, I have contacted a Junkyard which listed a used rustless tank for a 4WD '84 GL wagon. We'll see if what they say, and we will also see what this Tank manufacture says. I will also go to Parts Hut tomorrow and see what they can offer, after all, they got me the correct Cap and Rotor. My local parts hut is pretty good with getting obscure parts for old cars. No sense in being a doubting Thomas until all options are exhausted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 just make sure the place on car-parts knows if it is from a 4wd or a fwd, the hump for the drievshaft.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 just make sure the place on car-parts knows if it is from a 4wd or a fwd, the hump for the drievshaft.... Yep, they list it from a 4WD, so I will double check that (Otherwise I'll have to get a BFH to make room for the diff HAH!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I'm wondering for giggles, if I should see what the dealer can offer for a fuel tank. I'm sure there a supply of these things NOS somewhere, Even if it cost $160, I'd much rather have a new flawless tank to start with. I may go to the dealer tomrrow and see what they say. Perhaps a different Subaru dealer which didn't get me the wrong parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I'm wondering for giggles, if I should see what the dealer can offer for a fuel tank. I'm sure there a supply of these things NOS somewhere, Even if it cost $160, I'd much rather have a new flawless tank to start with. I may go to the dealer tomrrow and see what they say. Perhaps a different Subaru dealer which didn't get me the wrong parts. The dealers want $70 for a wheel cover, a new tank would probably be $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 discontinued 10 years ago. Don't think they stored any of them, you will be out of luck. Too old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 What I don't understand is, if parts are so hard to come by for a 1983, then how do these guys restore the 360s and 1000 Stars with new parts? I mean hell, I can get whatever I need for an '81 Dodge Omni (Except trannys parts since its a VW MT) There has to be something out there, other wise, what a POS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) You always learn something new everyday, or so they say. check with dannybreadman he has nos doors, fenders, and rear quarter panels for your wagon, on ebay still. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-REAR-DRIVER-SIDE-WAGON-QUARTER-PANEL-/220878696469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336d657015&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1084 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-PASSENGER-SIDE-REAR-WAGON-DOOR-/220722266318?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33641280ce#ht_500wt_1084 Edited March 8, 2012 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 What I don't understand is, if parts are so hard to come by for a 1983, then how do these guys restore the 360s and 1000 Stars with new parts? I mean hell, I can get whatever I need for an '81 Dodge Omni (Except trannys parts since its a VW MT) There has to be something out there, other wise, what a POS. I honestly have no idea how the 360 guys do it. I'm sure there are people that have a bunch of left over parts. Same with my Goliath, I have better luck finding parts for that (I have boxes of NOS stuff) sometimes than my ea81's for those there really is nothing. I think it has to do with them just being an 80's econobox. No one in there right mind would have thought people would be restoring these in 30 years. I even had to track down used rear window seals for my 84 because there are no new ones left. They are getting hard to find parts for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yep, it's the same deal for a lot of old cars. :-\ These are the keys, in my experience, to making the parts situation work: * Collecting & hoarding (parts cars and used/broken parts included) * Speculative buying (buying parts you might need in the future, or parts that others say are becoming hard to find) * Rebuilding/Refurbishing (fixing what you have instead of buying new parts) * Fabrication (building equivalents or adapting alternatives for the parts you can't find anymore) * Networking (Finding other people who also have parts stashes) * Preventative maintenance (Keep things from breaking or needing replacement in the first place!) ... and finally * Keep the car in the garage and never drive it for fear of anything happening to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I went to B&M (A place that seaches all Junkyards for the part you need) I could have gotten a nice one from TN, for $140 shipped. But the guy just called me and said he can not find a service that will ship the tank cause it smells like fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I would think pallet shipping would work for something like that. We got smelly things all the time at my last job. If you can find a private shipper to put it on a semi or something. I know semi, right but its open back trailer so no need to worry about other things. Go to uship.com and check that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 That would work, just trying to find somebody to do so is the hard part. I looked at uship.com, so is it like a want-ad for shipping basically? I took my tank to a repair shop, the guy says it will be ify once he sand blasts it. As for the broke fitting, that is also ify. This guy has been doing this for 35 years, so I guess we'll see what he can do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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