95legwagon Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 the 2.5 i saw was in a 98 legacy outback wagon.. i think. It had a V vin. I got my front bumper from a impreza outback wagon and it had a 2.5. It was the same body as my impreza so 94-98 era. The legacy block will cost me $50 since it's $50 at the yard for everything you can carry out and i can carry a bare block. the impreza 2.5 will cost me about $200 since it's classified as an engine. so the real question is there any other identification other than the EJ25 stamp on the block to isolate the 2? take the crank too lol..... i can caryy a ej25 block no problem so you should be able to caryy it with a crank n maybe rods? ....its light.....get a decent crank so you dont hafta spend $300 on one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 i was just going to leave the heads in the yard and carry the bottom end out fully assembled. What mods would need to be done to make the DOHC block work with SOHC heads tho? or is it plug and play pretty much? The subaru guys i bought the car from said theyre like lego's, everything is just plug & play for the most part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Use the 2.5 head gaskets and bolt 'em on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 This is fascinating... Are you saying - the DOHC timing belt will fit a DOHC block with SOHC heads? Are there no issues with timing? The electronics "just work"? I find it hard to believe. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Obviously you need to use the shorter SOHC timing belt. The electronics just work. All the electronics in the head is one cam sensor. Use the 2.2 intake manifold, it's plug and play swappable with the 2.5. Car couldn't care less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I am hoping to get into my frankenmotor build this summer. Will be watching this thread with interest. I pulled a EJ25 DOHC motor out of a 99 OBW and will be putting it in my 99 OBS. I am using phase II EJ22 heads. The EJ25 head gasket lines up pretty dang close to the phase II EJ22 heads. I'm curious about the one mentioned by the OP, though. Is it offered just for phase I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 The 2.2 i just did the timing belt was a bitt tight had to grind a tiny bitt off end of addjuster to get it in i used 2.2 b gaskets with phase 2 heads. In the offroad subies I do we mix and match alot but you must have an eye for deatails one differance thats overlooked and its toast. And i cant say thiss enuff CHANGE THE ROD BERRINGS thiss is any subaru moters weakest link and when they fail the whole moter fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Should be going in tonight, possibly wait until tomorrow morning. I'm cleaning up the crossover and I/M... May go ahead and paint the I/M and give myself a sleep to make sure I got every gnat's rump roast detail down. Thankfully my oil pressure gauge showed up, so I can get that all wired in and ready to go for my prime. It's one of those things where I'm excited to stab it and fire it up, but I know that I need to take my time and triple check everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Don't forget the oil. :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 lol, the oil is my #1 paranoia with this engine, but I've definitely overlooked glaringly obvious things in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Everyone has, but the drain plug is one of those glaringly obvious things that will destroy all of your hard work in 10 seconds. I forgot the drain plug once. Luckily I realized the oil was pouring right back out (into the drain pan that was about to overflow) after the third quart. Had to bum a ride to the parts store to get more oil though. A friend of mine forget to put oil in after draining and he fired it up and back down off the ramps. He did figure it out after a few seconds when the clattering didn't go away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 The first thing I do before even pulling the old engine is put a big note on the steering wheel "ODD OIL!", put tape over the ignition, and hide the keys under the matt so I actually have to put some effort into starting it. Bad things can happen at 1am when you finally get the engine in, and just want to test ride it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Aside from a few quirks, everything went perfectly smoothly. Need to hard wire in the oil pressure gauge and begin the break in driving tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 What's break in method are you going with? Varying RPMs and not beating on it for several hundred miles or the drive it like you stole it method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Really curious about the valve train on this. Are the Delta cams roller or wiper, HLA or SLA ? Lastly the amount of valve train noise and idle quality. Can't wait to see it and hear it running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 What's break in method are you going with? Varying RPMs and not beating on it for several hundred miles or the drive it like you stole it method? I let it idle without touching the throttle for 30 minutes and then changed the oil (Rotella dino oil) The next 500 miles will be varying RPMs without going over 4k. Deliberately lugging it on hills some to really load the engine and seat the rings. Change the oil again. To 1000 miles without going over 4k, but I can actually drive on the freeway now. Change oil again. To 1500, nothing over 5k, change oil again. 1500 on... flog it mercilessly. No synthetics or syn blends until 7500 miles. This is the method the PRE uses on their 500whp+ engines, so I figure it's good enough for me. Luckily I don't have to worry about keeping it out of boost. Really curious about the valve train on this. Are the Delta cams roller or wiper, HLA or SLA ? Lastly the amount of valve train noise and idle quality. Can't wait to see it and hear it running! SLAs, roller rocker assemblies, and it's pretty noisy in the valve train, but idles smooth with only a little lope over stock. As for how it sounds? Beastly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 22, 2012 Author Share Posted April 22, 2012 650 miles in update: I still think I'm chasing a fueling or ignition issue. Either that or the cams really shifted the power band. It's a dog under 2 grand, and a rocketship from about 2200 forward. Getting way better gas mileage than the old 2.2 on my commute, and it's definitely a lot more fun to drive. The 2.2 would register a load % of 75%+ going up the big hill, whereas the new engine only reads about 53% I'm still thinking of going a step colder on the plugs due to the much higher CR; thinking that my low rpm flat spot could be the knock sensor as a result of predet from the hot plugs. It's an $8 experiment, so I'll give it a try after I pull a compression test this week. My plugs looked a little lighter than I like to see, so I'll attribute it to that for now. If not, I already have a call in to FTW to look into a tune/injector upgrade. All told, I was about $1400 into the build including a lot of new parts I didn't anticipate having to buy. Had I hunted down a good 2.5 short block and used good 2.2 heads, I would have been closer to $800 in, but now I have freshly ground rods and crank, all new bearings, all new valves and seals, and peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 we stuck a frankie as we now call it, in my roommate's postal wagon. With stock cams, it has more low end torque than the 2.2 but is sort of a dog until about 3k. That is just the way the motor is I guess... EJ's have always wanted to be thrashed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Yeah, if I put my foot deep into it, it gets out of it's own way in a hurry. Unfortunately, that means about 1000 usable RPMS from 3-4k currently. Decided to hold off on hitting 5k for 1000 miles. Can't hardly wait until 1500 miles so I can really flog it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 we went with the hard break in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Out of nowhere, the car started pulling HARD. All gears, from 2k rpm on up. I guess something finally wore in or cleared up.:brow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 The one in Renob123's Brat that lives here in my garage pulls HARD from 1200 up. Delta torque cams with hydro lifters. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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