kabarakh Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 '83 GL. Rear nut on my spindle wasn't tight, tire was wobbling. Apparently the washer or something was binding it up though, because in my efforts to loosen (or tighten) the nut it rounded off completely. Now I can't get any socket or anything on it. Any ideas? I'm at my wits end, if I can't get it figured out I may be in a situation where I have to cut the whole thing off and buy a new hub assembly. it's 2wd btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Pound a smaller socket onto it. If the wheel was wobbling and the nut was tight, I think you probably need new bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 I probably do, and once I get it off bearings will be on the list (they're easy since it's 2wd) I'll give the smaller socket a try, it just irritates me to no end that it happened... now I've gotta track down a new nut too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) I probably do, and once I get it off bearings will be on the list (they're easy since it's 2wd) I'll give the smaller socket a try, it just irritates me to no end that it happened... now I've gotta track down a new nut too. you might find an english socket that is intermediate between the next smaller metric size. (1-7/16" ???, I dunno) Edited March 4, 2012 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. GD pipe wrenches are awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. GD That was my first idea, but the nut is recessed in the hub so I can't get a grip on the thing with a pipe wrench. I'll give it another go though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 You might need to burn it off with a torch or plasma cutter, etc. at this point. I've never seen an axle nut round off. I would guess that your socket is not a good fit for the nut. A proper fitting, 6 point, deep-well impact socket is a must for axle nuts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 It's a 6pt 30mm impact socket. Verified it to be the right dimensions on the other undamaged nut on the other side of the car, after this one rounded off... I'm amazed it happened too, I think the washer behind it somehow got warped and is acting as a lock washer now. Real PITA whatever caused it... it's amazing how things can go downhill so quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 I would just burn it off with my plasma. If you can get a die-grinder in there and slice it down till you are just almost to the threads you can probably split it with a chisel.... Sometimes there's no substitute for heavy duty tools. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 That neither sounds right, nor good.... The nut should not be "inside" of the hub. In any way, shape, or form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 That neither sounds right, nor good.... The nut should not be "inside" of the hub. In any way, shape, or form. I thought it was odd too, it's a much smaller nut (width wise) then the 'normal' 36mm one on my 4wd '88 subi. If the thread pattern is the same I'm planning on swapping it out with the 36mm castle nut so that it sticks out enough to get a proper tool on it. If you figure the 36mm nuts are about an inch(ish) thick then this one is maybe a half inch thick. much smaller profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 I thought it was odd too, it's a much smaller nut (width wise) then the 'normal' 36mm one on my 4wd '88 subi. If the thread pattern is the same I'm planning on swapping it out with the 36mm castle nut so that it sticks out enough to get a proper tool on it. If you figure the 36mm nuts are about an inch(ish) thick then this one is maybe a half inch thick. much smaller profile. Maybe you have a reman'd axle. I've heard they cut a lot of corners on machining reman's, including turning down and rethreading the spindle at a smaller size if the threads are no good when they get it. I don't know if it will work for your situation, but another way to deal with a rounded nut is to weld another nut or bolt onto the rounded one to get some bite. I've even welded junk sockets on rounded nuts to get them off Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 He is dealing with 2WD here! They are totally different. Different size nut, different brake drum, fixed spindle, etc. You are confusing the man with tales of 4WD and experience with front axles, etc. This is 100% different and if you haven't done one before you arent helping! GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Anyone happen to know the thread pattern for that nut off hand? If I can't dig one up at a pull-a-part or at my local dealership I may have to find something that will work somewhere else... it would be helpful to know the size going into the search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Nevermind, found this info... Size of rear axle nut on fwd (2WD) 1980-1987 Subarus... M20x1.5, 1.17" hex 0.31" height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O.C.D. Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 x2 on the welding of another nut on there. That would be quickest and best for grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPain Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Metrinch tools, buy a set. http://www.metrinch.tv/ I bought mine at Sears over 15 years ago and have used it on American and imported cars. I swear by these. Plus, they are designed not to grab on to the corners of the bolts but the flat parts of the bolts. I've been able to take almost completely rounded nuts off of anything with these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 x2 on the welding of another nut on there. That would be quickest and best for grip. We don't all have welders. Sometimes brite animal force or delicate dremel tool surgery, then splitting the nut has to be done by us peasants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabarakh Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Got it! it took a die grinder, sawzall, drill, cold chisel, sledgehammer, and vice grips to get it off, but I got it! Now, does anyone have any pointers on putting wheel bearings in for a 2WD? Do I just poke them in there and make sure the hub tightens down with the new nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Got it! it took a die grinder, sawzall, drill, cold chisel, sledgehammer, and vice grips to get it off, but I got it! Now, does anyone have any pointers on putting wheel bearings in for a 2WD? Do I just poke them in there and make sure the hub tightens down with the new nut? hmmm....I'm sure GD can tell you if you can't find a procedure. On a car I had in the past, there was a torque value, but then you backed the nut off and torqued to a lower value and put a cotter pin in. I think it was a preload procedure for tapered roller bearings IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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