Boy those U-joints sure are fun to remove

 

 

Re-built driveshaft coming soon

.

 

Drive line service in Lewi?

 

 

Boy those U-joints sure are fun to remove

 

 

Re-built driveshaft coming soon

Uh, no. Driveline service in my garage

Fancy newly machined and resurfaced flywheel

 

 

 

I have to start looking for this to be done on my EA71 flywheel.

 

Do I need to locate a driveline shop or?

 

Do auto stores typically do this?

 

Will whomever does this know what to remove or would I need to tell them?

 

Did the shop clean it that well?

 

May I ask how much this cost? I want to get a ballpark to save up.

 

I can call around I just wanted to narrow it down.

 

I tried to strip the pics from my post but the iPad fought me.

 

Thanks!

Edited September 23, 201213 yr by O.C.D.

Any half-way decent machine shop can do this, provided they have an actual flywheel machine. A standard blanchard grinder wont do it.

 

They clean it prior to machining, this saves wear and tear on their machines. Then it is washed again afterwards.

 

The flywheel face was surfaced, then the step was machined to my specifications. I went with .815 for the higher clamping load, and the EA82 clutch.

 

Total cost was about $60

 

In machine shop jargon, just tell them you need the flywheel "turned" and the step machined to whatever depth you need. There are a few numbers floating around on the forum for different applications, as Subaru used a few different clamp loads for various EA81 and EA82 models.

Great, thank you for the info. I will have to see what the step is for an EA71.

 

I believe this to be the "ledge" height, is that correct?

 

So in theory if they machined .500" off the face then the step would be .500" higher. If you wanted the step to be .225" then that would be what they remove from the step. Or if you needed a higher step then they would take more off the face.

 

Am I thinking right? Appreciate the insight as I am learning.

To an extent, yes. You can only machine so much off of the face of the flywheel though, until you find the minimum thickness per MFG spec. Too thin and you will have a potential to warm/crack the flywheel.

 

You've got the idea though. But normally you DECREASE the step, in order to increase the pressure plate clamp load. SO you machine the face first, then machine the step until you get to your desired height.

Driveshaft carnage....

 

Removing the original non-serviceable U-joints is a pain. Dremel and a few grinding drums is pretty much required.

 

 

And newly rebuild driveline. No rust on it, so all I did was sand it lightly, prep, and give it a quick re-paint.

 

 

Made in USA joints from carquest, come with zerk fittings. Seem like nice joints

 

Then I drug the motor out once again, installed the rear main seal, and installed a new front main. I had installed a felpro front main, but didnt like how it fit. It was TOO tight, and deformed as it went in. So new OEM front and rear mains were installed.

 

 

New rear main with speedi-sleeve installed

 

 

 

Pilot bearing ready to be installed.

 

 

Now I just need to find those damn flywheel bolts... seem to have run off....

 

Oh, and can anyone tell me how deep the pilot bearing must be installed? Flush with the clutch side I assume?

Yup - flush with the clutch disc side. That's all.

Are the tolerances on that pilot really tight? Can that be hammered in with some wood or do you need a press?

 

Was your shaft worn enough to need a Speedisleeve?

 

If you can't tell I am trying to learn from your rebuild.

 

Thanks again.

Edited September 25, 201213 yr by O.C.D.

Pilot bearing can be tapped on with a hammer and the appropriate driver. I normally use a socket.

 

The flywheel flange had a pretty healthy groove worn in it, so it got a speedi-sleeve.

 

pics here...

 

 

 

 

Your wagon is sick dude! Everything is so clean, and the mods are all so tastefully done. Awesome work!

 

Would you happen to have any more pictures or info on your storage/sleeping platform? I would love to make something similar for the Desert Fox.

Thanks for the props!

 

Sure thing about the platform, Ill post some more pics of it.... I have them hosted already.

 

BRB

The sleeping platform....

 

One of my primary goals was to keep the rear seats usable without removing the entire unit.

 

I started with two sheets of 5x5 1/2" thick Baltic Birch plywood. This is normally used for building cabinets. A lightweight, rigid, and easy to work plywood.

 

The base built. Notice the back seat is this upright.

 

 

The mid-section.

 

 

This thing is a bit custom

 

 

Rear section in. Though it is easily removable, this is what will remain in the car. The rear seat is still 100% functional. The rear section is also hinged to access the small spaces left and right of the box.

 

 

Seat folded forward, now the front section is in. And sleeping space is now obvious. Small, but it is there! The platform will fit both the wife and I. With heads towards the back window, stretched all the way out my feet will hang over the front a bit (Im 6' tall)

 

 

Details on cuts. I had to make cuts to allow the use of the door handles. That's important!

 

 

The front section rests on the back seat bottom.

 

 

Details under the front section. here you can see the aluminum angle used for stiffeners in the mid-section, aluminum plates the front section rests on, and the steel plate that the front section rests, and pins to. For long term usage, I will bolt this section. Short term will be some sort of pin or bolt/wingnut setup. For fitment purposes only, I used a couple of roofing nails.

 

 

And where Im at right now. The unit is out of the car for paint.

 

The platform was painted to match the interior, then epoxy-coated. As the epoxy dried, I backrolled it for textured finish, and once dry I hit it with some 600 grit sandpaper to de-gloss it a bit.

 

From inside the cab, seat folded down.

 

 

 

Rear section folds up. The soft bag on the left is my tool kit. ammo cans currently have 90% of the cooking essentials. The rest of the space will be occupied by sleeping gear.

 

 

Rear seat folded up.

 

 

And what it looks like when peeking through the side windows...

 

Obviously when fully packed with gear this space will have clothing and food related stuff.

 

 

So far Im really happy with the way things pack into this platform. Anything shorter than a week, and I have pretty much eliminated the need to use the roof rack and basket all together. For me thats a HUGE benefit, as highway MPG takes a pretty good hit when using the rack and basket.

 

 

Since finishing it I have installed some tie downs, it works fantastic

Nice job as usual.. I have thought about doing something like that for a few years but I have a tendency to build too heavy or just plain ugly and utilitarian.

 

Someone break his camera finger!

It worked out really well, and we have used it for 5 camp trips and 2 backpacking trips so far.

 

Normally head out after work on friday, make it to the trail head that night and sleep in the car. Hit the trail early the next morning.

 

The last few even included bringing the hound dog. We pack gear into the foot-well area of the front passenger seat and his bed works there. Happy camper.

 

We also cook our dinner on the motor on the drive in. Toss a can of soup or chili on the motor 50 miles or so before you get there and youve got dinner ready to go. :cool:

Great work, and what a great way to take advantage of all the space!

Thanks!

 

 

Small update for today. Im getting very close to being ready...

 

To make things stupid simple for my new Oil PSI/Temp gauge, an oil filter spacer was used. Then both sending units were installed and routed.

 

The crank pulley was painted up too.

 

 

Oil filler and dipstick tubes cleaned up, painted, and installed.

 

Some bronze love

 

 

And one other decent hurdle was overcome. A bit of fabrication was needed to alter the dizzy hold-down bracket. Something I missed in the tear-down, the original bracket bolt had been broken off in the block. And it looked like somebody had tried and failed to repair it. It was a bit of a mess. So instead of trying to drill a hole in my brand new motor, I opted to bolt it down using another location. The threaded boss that I used isnt on the EA81 that I have in my GL Must be a hydro-block thing...

 

Anyhow, I fixed it up by welding a bit of steel to the original bracket to reach the new threaded boss. Then some more bronze

 

Oh, Im also on the hunt for a couple of items. Please let me know if you have something I can use...

 

Im looking for a flywheel inspection plug to fit this EA81 bellhousing...

 

 

As well as a good clutch fork seal for this 5-speed dual range.

 

 

 

Thanks for any help.

I have a good spare Timing plug for that EA81.

 

Really don't think I have a good clutch fork seal though. But I will look....

Awesome. Thanks Tom.

 

Let me know what you want and how much to ship.

 

Do you take paypal?

Wow that thing is gorgeous! One of these days I'm gonna fly out West and grab me one of those beauties to drive home...or maybe just stay out there with it!!

Wow that thing is gorgeous! One of these days I'm gonna fly out West and grab me one of those beauties to drive home...or maybe just stay out there with it!!

 

Bring it back here! Start a population again, perhaps with some weird inbreeding, we can start a new gaggle of these in the Mid-west!

 

Anyway, yeah that motor is looking tasty. Digging the Bronze accents.