The air conditioning has stopped working. Checking engine bay shows compressor clutch not engaging. I can engage clutch by using external live feed from battery.

Current fault codes include 32, Oxygen sensor, 24, air control sensor Both of which I have had before, without affecting Air Con, and 12, starter switch/circuit.

The engine starts and runs as normal, with no loss of power or surging.

Any ideas please?

Thanks

Yewman

Easy way to test your ac circuit is to jump the pressure switch plug with a paperclip. If the clutch engages, you have low pressure in the ac system and need to find and repair the leak, and get the system recharged.

 

 

Pull the plug off the dryer (Cylinder mounted to the passenger strut tower) And jump the plug. If the clutch engages when you do that, it's an easy fix. (See above)

it's probably just low on refrigerant due to a leak, most common in my experience. i have yet to see an actual component failure on an EJ vehicle. i have a write up here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1102617

Thanks a lot for the helpful replies.

I'll check out the system and feed back the results.

Regards,

Yewman

Ok, I've jumped the dryer plug and the compressor clutch engages, like you said.

Before I start taking pipes off, and lose the refridgerant, is there anything else to check which might give the same result?

There is no wetness inside the valve caps.

How do you check where the leak is ?

Thanks

Yewman

you probably already lost all the refrigerant.

 

change the o-rings at the compressor, when you refill, use the refrigerant with the UV dye for the first can, top off with a can of regular.(I think the system holds 2 cans?) then monitor for the dye. Hopefully, there's no pinhole in the condenser or leaks anywhere that can't be fixed by more o-rings.

 

Or take it to a shop with a 'sniffer' - they should be able to locate the leak, fix it, evacuate the system and re-charge it.

Go buy the green o rings at an auto parts store. They hold up to drastic temperature changes better. I bought a kit for $5 and had my a/c pulled down and recharged for $45. Do all of the o rings. Usually the ones right there are the dryer fail. Replace the drier while you're at it too.

Go buy the green o rings at an auto parts store. They hold up to drastic temperature changes better. I bought a kit for $5 and had my a/c pulled down and recharged for $45. Do all of the o rings. Usually the ones right there are the dryer fail. Replace the drier while you're at it too.

 

Also known as HNBR O-rings

 

Also don't keep the compressor jumped with no flow because it uses the oil mixed in the lines with the refrigerant to lube the compressor.

Thanks for all the advice. Finally got round to checking the system again. There is no pressure at the charging valves. So refrigerant gone.

I have removed a couple of connections, and the o rings so far are good.

Before I get it recharged I want to check as much as I can.

There is a pipe going around the front of the radiator. Is there a cooler matrix in front of the rad? I couldn't see anything obvious.

Regards

Yewman

Go buy the green o rings at an auto parts store. They hold up to drastic temperature changes better. I bought a kit for $5 and had my a/c pulled down and recharged for $45. Do all of the o rings. Usually the ones right there are the dryer fail. Replace the drier while you're at it too.

 

$45??? What kind of place? I got quotes going well above $100 for a full system recharge.

Thanks for all the advice. Finally got round to checking the system again. There is no pressure at the charging valves. So refrigerant gone.

I have removed a couple of connections, and the o rings so far are good.

Before I get it recharged I want to check as much as I can.

There is a pipe going around the front of the radiator. Is there a cooler matrix in front of the rad? I couldn't see anything obvious.

Regards

Yewman

 

2 pipes go to the condenser, which is in front of the radiator(looks like a mini-radiator). Each pipe bolts onto the side of the condenser. Should be an o-ring on each one. If you remove the grill, you can see the condenser.

Thanks for that,

I'll try to get the grille off without wrecking the clips.

No one in the UK seems to keep these clips and they all have to be specially ordered .

Don't know how the body shops manage.

I am amazed at the number of different locking clips invented by subaru for their bodywork and electrics.

Still it's a small problem to put up with for a great car.

Yewman

Once you get all the o-rings replaced and everything back together you will need to have a shop do the recharge unless you happen to have the equipment. Recharging an A/C system that has been opened up without bringing it to a vacuum and properly recharging it will result in a system that lasts for a short amount of time.

 

Along with replacing the gaskets I would go ahead and find out how much it costs to replace the oil in the compressor. Make sure you use the specified oil as the oil and refrigerant need to be compatible.

$45??? What kind of place? I got quotes going well above $100 for a full system recharge.

 

The cheapest I ever am for A/C is $99, that's EVAC, replace O rings, pull vac and verify no leak, recharge. Just the Freon itself is $20-25 and the oil another 3-4. I would be skeptical of anybody that is a professional shop doing it for less than the $100.

The cheapest I ever am for A/C is $99, that's EVAC, replace O rings, pull vac and verify no leak, recharge. Just the Freon itself is $20-25 and the oil another 3-4. I would be skeptical of anybody that is a professional shop doing it for less than the $100.

 

O-rings I'm already replacing, since the compressor has been out. I just went to CAP today and got a non-corroded bracket to remount the compressor. Now I need to find the other hose(short one) that I removed, and replace the o-rings, and find a good shop. Are you saying that YOU have the equipment to do it?

Yes. I don't do many of them in my little shop but I have an older 134 AC machine that seems to work pretty good.