And for the carrier bearing we just flipped the bracket and it lined up perfect.  The way the mount works made the driveshaft sit at almost the perfect angle after we flipped it.  Those were the two things that we did that saved us some time.

Edited February 25, 201313 yr by eulogious

If I wanted to give my 2003 baja a small lift, what is the best way?  I don't want to compromise any chance of safety issues as I drive my grandkids around with me all the time.  Hwy and mountain roads.

 

If I wanted to give my 2003 baja a small lift, what is the best way? I don't want to compromise any chance of safety issues as I drive my grandkids around with me all the time. Hwy and mountain roads.

If I wanted to give my 2003 baja a small lift, what is the best way? I don't want to compromise any chance of safety issues as I drive my grandkids around with me all the time. Hwy and mountain roads.

Strut spacers

when lifting a lego L with outback suspension you have to match the longer struts with lift blocks that go between the body and the cross member. if you don't put the spacers in you wont be able to line the bolts up, I know I had to go back to the scrap yard!

 

on a side note I just picked up some 05 outback rims 17x7! fitted them up to my lifted rear end and had just enough clearance with 225/55/17s but they rubbed on the strut spring perch of the stock L front strut.

when lifting a lego L with outback suspension you have to match the longer struts with lift blocks that go between the body and the cross member. if you don't put the spacers in you wont be able to line the bolts up, I know I had to go back to the scrap yard!

 

on a side note I just picked up some 05 outback rims 17x7! fitted them up to my lifted rear end and had just enough clearance with 225/55/17s but they rubbed on the strut spring perch of the stock L front strut.

This isn't true. Many people including myself have outback or forester struts in out regular legacy or impreza and you don't need the body spacers. It is a bit more challenging to get the bolts in, but it can be done. Just need a pry bar.

i've got mine a little higher than just standard outback struts, running forester springs with outback struts and I have no body spacers.  Definitely doable without the body spacers.

 

 

this is before I replaced the blown out front struts, its levelish now

Edited April 24, 201312 yr by 86BRATMAN

can and should are two different matters! wont struts with no lift blocks increase the angle of the cv axles both front and rear? I hear the more angle the faster they die.

can and should are two different matters! wont struts with no lift blocks increase the angle of the cv axles both front and rear? I hear the more angle the faster they die.

Yes, they can fail faster. But adding Outback struts is generally within the safe range.

my rears axles are still basically straight, and the fronts don't have any more angle than an older generation did stock.

50k miles on my dad's Legacy brighton with Outback struts on it and the CV boots are all still fine. I think they may be the factory axles even, it's got 170k miles on it.

today I'm installing front outback kit ie steering extension, lit blocks, struts, control arm bushings... a few days ago I installed the final piece to my rear end, the rear control arm bracket. I have to say that the car handles a little differently and I think the articulation is important! plus if you want to go really big with tire wheel combos you need the extra bit of clearance! I can see on the red subaru above that there is clearly more space on the outermost part of your wheel wells, between the tire and wheel well I experienced the same thing in the rear with just the control arm brackets missing.

 

 

will get pics up when I'm done got some 05 outback 225/55/17's !!!! gonna look SICK!!!!

you're correct on the rear wheel spacing, I hadn't gotten the outback control arm brackets on yet there

after a trip to the junk yard for a rear trans cross member and she lives I like my girls big x.x

ive put 13k miles on my car with my lift/struts/29" tires.  axles are the least of your worries

 

If you drive normally, not much is going to fail much faster..  Even with CV axles, they are 65 bucks and take 15 minutes to change.  

95-99 outback struts on a 95-99 base legacy give a little over an inch of lift, grab the rear lateral link brackets as well. switching to outback tire sizes vs. the legacy size gives you almost another inch. I have 20k mi on outback struts in my 99 legacy with no lift blocks, axles are fine.

 

 

Isaac

95-99 outback struts on a 95-99 base legacy give a little over an inch of lift, grab the rear lateral link brackets as well. switching to outback tire sizes vs. the legacy size gives you almost another inch. I have 20k mi on outback struts in my 99 legacy with no lift blocks, axles are fine.

 

 

Isaac

It's closer to 2-2.5" of lift with the Outback struts on a Legacy. And the tires are also about a 2" difference. And you would use the trailing arm bracket, but it's not absolutely necessary.

It's closer to 2-2.5" of lift with the Outback struts on a Legacy. And the tires are also about a 2" difference. And you would use the trailing arm bracket, but it's not absolutely necessary.

"trailing arm" bracket, thanks that is the word I was looking for

 

There is no way the outback tires are 4in larger than the legacy stuff, any increase in the tire gets halved as only half the tire adds lift below the alxe line. A stock legacy tire is ~24.3in diameter, whereas a stock outback tire is ~26.3, the difference is ~2in, half of that is below the axle line and adds 1in of lift, while the other half is above and adds nothing. Think about it.

 

As far as the struts go, I have done three 96-99 outback strut onto 96-99 base legacy strut swaps over the last few years, and they have all yielded ~1.5in (+/- 1/4in) of actual lift, measured at the fender lip pre and post lift.

 

there is my $.12 (adjusted for inflation)

 

Isaac

I got about 2" after everything settled using '04 Baja springs on the stock, but new, struts on my Outback. When you compare the two different springs, the Baja springs are about the same height and I seem to recall them having fewer coils. But the steel is way thicker. As a result, you get lift and a bumpier ride.

 

Warning, combined with my rallitek sway bars, the car now makes some pretty obnoxious clicking noises. After a thorough looksie by me and then my mechanic we confirmed that, yep, it's a result of having much stiffer suspension.

just chiming in, I lifted a 90s legacy (outback) with just 04 forester springs + struts, gave it about 2" front and rear. no spacers or other stuff needed.

just chiming in, I lifted a 90s legacy (outback) with just 04 forester springs + struts, gave it about 2" front and rear. no spacers or other stuff needed.

This is what im doing right now (99 LGT, 04 Forester XT springs/struts).   I am having a hell of a time getting the rears in.   i got the strut bolted up top to the body (loosely, for ability to maneuver it if needed) and the lower bolt in the knuckle, but cant get the upper bolt holes lined up even close to being able to put the bolt in.  i cant seem to figure out how to put a prybar or anything in there to get it goin the right way :/ 

 

ideas?

Edited August 4, 201312 yr by xbeerd

check the strut to body clearance, I bet it's like mine was, 98 outback struts and forester springs, had to hammer the inner fender right behind the strut with my mini sledge to get clearance, then the top bolt slid right in

Put a floor jack under the brake rotor and lift up. stick a screw driver in one of the bolt holes to help align till you can get a bolt in the other hole.

 

Put a floor jack under the brake rotor and lift up.

 

i found this to be a little tricky.

so i used two 6'' x 6'' blocks stacked on top of each other and lowered the car down on them.

as weight was put on the rotor, the bolt holes lined up.

i found the blocks more stable and less likely to damage the rotor.

 

but it worked great.

again if you don't lower your main cross members with lift blocks and all the other jazz involved its not going to line up I'd venture to bet you can worp the top hat mount by hammering and other buffoonery just do it like it was intended its not that hard and adds a lot to controllability of the car