Hi guys.

 

96 legacy wagon 2.2, w/ 4EAT.

 

Im replacing my head gaskets,, Im fixing to take the engine out of the car. The nuts are rusted on to the studs. So the studs are turning out of the head.

 

Which is fine,, at least they aren't breaking , (knock on wood.)

 

I got 2 out so far,,

 

Anyway im looking to replace these studs. But when I go look for them online,, I cannot find them anywhere. Well I found one place on line,, on EBAY,, and they want 20 dollars for 4 studs and 4 nuts..

 

So im askin ,,, Where do I get these ? I can try going to my local dealer I guess,,, I just think this should be a lot more common.

Dealer or junk yard.  I often pull good ones in rust free CO.  In OH they are most likely all like yours.

wire wheel , anti seize and reuse. Auto stores carry them, but you may have to use washers.

 

O.

Auto part stores and sometimes hardware stores have exhaust studs. Sometimes they're in the drawers full of nuts and bolts, sometimes you have to ask at the counter. I know napa carries them if you go to the counter and ask for subaru exhaust studs.

Reuse yours - they'll work fine - just like bolts which your new ones will turn into in 9 months again anyway!

 

You can buy them at auto parts stores, mine carries them in stock - but don't try and search by Subarus - they'll say they don't carry them.

Just buy an M10 x 1.25 thread metric stud.  they will not list them for Subarus and the computer will tell you they don't fit.  so you can't ask - you just have to find them and buy them.  take an original one with you to match up.

 

There is a small portion of the stud that is not threaded - so there's a short threaded side and a long threaded side.

 

If you install the "short" side threads into the block first - then that unthreaded portion lines up with the gasket/flange and you're golden.

 

here they are at autozone - i never shop at autozone so I'm assuming these are the same:

http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/double-ended-stud/dorman-autograde-m10-1-25-x-21-mm-and-m10-1-25-x-13-mm-double-ended-stud/223845_0_0/

 

see how the unthreaded portion isn't in the middle so there's a short and long threaded side?   Install the long threaded side OUT - so it gives you all the threads you need to install the nut.

Edited May 11, 201510 yr by grossgary

If you put some antisieze on the nut, it should not turn into bolts.  The engine on mine I don't believe has ever been out ('96 OBS 2.2L) yet the nuts came off without a problem.

 

Figuring that you live in the rust belt somewhere some antisieze if you replace them should solve the problem.

Thanks Gary.

 

Any precautions I should take on these last two studs?

 

Im just scared im going to break them

 

Im using pb blaster and a 3/8 drive breaker bar w/14mm socket

 

I have an electric impact wrench which is ancient. Should I leave that out of possible solutions.?

 

I can do this work ,, im just looking for tips on how YOU would do it.

 

Thanks.

Havent gotten out the studs yet. Using 3/8 breaker bar. 14mm socket 6point.

 

Should I move up to a half inch wratchet and extension?

 

Should I use this junky impact wrench I have to help loosen it?

 

It doesn't have the kick that a pneumatic one has.. Im just looking for ideas. I DO NOT want to break off these studs. I have no welder or torches.

 

I DO have access to a burnz-o-matic torch.

Edited May 16, 201510 yr by xdeadeye1

Can't say I've ever had much trouble with them, but about half the ones I remove the whole stud comes out.

 

Do you already have the other two totally out? I leave one on each side to hold the y-pipe up while I work on the other side. Keeps it from binding them as it tries to pull down.

 

If they're turning then keep turning them. If they lock up, hit them with some PB and leave them for an hour.

One stud has come out on each side.

 

The nuts don't turn. Im hoping just to get the studs out and put new in.

 

I could apply more pressure via 1/2 " drive ,, and I could use the impact wrench to get some vibration in it..

Use 1/2 drive but no impact, they will come out, this happens all the time. back & forth with lots of penetrant.

Seized steel in alum is a pain in the butt. You put a1/2 impact or ratchet on those and you might pull the threads out along with the studs. That would be, as we say, bad. Ttry heating the nut with a map torch. Get it hot. Let it cool down a bit, 5 - 10 min. Try to get it loose. If it still won't break free heat it again, try to isolate the flame to the nut. Keep working it, it'll break free eventually.

Auto part stores and sometimes hardware stores have exhaust studs. Sometimes they're in the drawers full of nuts and bolts, sometimes you have to ask at the counter. I know napa carries them if you go to the counter and ask for subaru exhaust studs.

What's the difference between an exhaust stud and a bolt?

A stud goes in and is threaded where the head of a bolt would be to attach a nut.

A bolt has a head on it.

A stud doesn't have a head on it. Or if it does, its smaller than the threads.

Adding to the above:

Studs are always used where the necessary retaining force would exceed the ability of the material. Ie, aluminum head with limited depth area.

So instead of " pulling the exhaust tight you are clamping it. That's from an engineer.

 

Studs are used where access can be limited and the depth of the faster exceeds the available space. Like the bellhousing studs.

Studs are used where heat and corrosion are likely to anneal the fastener to the retained surface.

 

Studs generally have dissimilar thread patterns and length.

 

Studs do not eat quiche.

Stud owners charge a fee for their use.

yeah just use a 1/2" socket set and a long pipe over the handle if you need to.  keep it all squared up as you're cranking on it so it doesn't walk off.

 

they should come off.  i've worked on countless rusty cars and i've only ever had one sheer off....maybe two if i'm forgetting one.  but i've had a ton that were really tight.

 

once it starts to move - if it's still tight do this:

1.  loosen a little bit (how much depends how tight it is - the tighter it is the less you loosen it)
2.  wait - go check your mail, make lunch, mow the grass

3.  turn it a little bit more (again - how far depends how tight it still is)

4.  wait again - go water the garden, pluck your eyebrows....

5.  keep repeating until it comes off.

 

this is extermely helpful regarding heat - as you loosen a tight fastener - it heats up A LOT.   they can burn the snot out of you.  this loosen/wait routine helps the metal cool down, not expand, and not weaken the materials.

Edited May 20, 201510 yr by grossgary

Thanks guys I got them off, Just took a little more torque,, 3 studs came out,, one stud stayed in and the nut came off.