Second gen brat. The other day I was driving and heard some crunching from the passenger wheel well and figured my CV axle had finally gone. The boot was torn and I was waiting for it to happen. I put it in 4wd to get it home, which luckily was around the block. Just took off the hub and noticed the splines are very stripped. This is the same problem I had to fix on the drivers side to get the thing running again. This brat came with 4" (ish) SJR lift blocks that seem to make the wheels tilt in excessively. 

The question here: are the SJR blocks throwing the geometry off so much that this problem will just keep happening (stripped hubs)? Is there a solution besides just taking them off? 

Thanks! 

you might contact SJR and ask him. the other man in the know, is Anderson Design and Fabrication, in Sandy Oregon The build ADF lifts for all the the older and newer Subies out there.  https://andersondesign-fab.com/

I'm just finishing my 86 GL with a combination, used SJR 4in, and ADFs 4in lift kit.   please let us know what u find.  Id like to know

That brake rotor does not look good.  The shiny / wear area should go a lot further in to the center.

Stripped hubs are from the cone washer being ridged and not seating properly, the concave washer being put on backwards and not holding torque, or not torquing the axle nut enough.

From a physics standpoint, I don't see how the lift could have anything to do with it. 

Dan

Edited December 12, 20187 yr by BEECHBM69

Stripped hubs are because of improper installation and bad cone washers, etc. Has nothing to do with the lift. Everything to do with the quality of the mechanic. 

GD

2 hours ago, BEECHBM69 said:

Stripped hubs are from the cone washer being ridged and not seating properly, the concave washer being put on backwards and not holding torque, or not torquing the axle nut enough.

From a physics standpoint, I don't see how the lift could have anything to do with it. 

Dan

+1

Noted. 

Scott from SJR said the same thing as everyone above. 

I have ordered new cone washers and will make sure the torque specs are good. 

Thanks for the advice. 

13 hours ago, DaveT said:

That brake rotor does not look good.  The shiny / wear area should go a lot further in to the center.

Yup, gotta swap those out too. Pretty bad. 

I noticed that those hubs are drilled for 6 lug wheels. To me this means that you were probably running larger tires than the tiny little 13" tires that came with the car. Wouldn't the larger tire - wheel combination put way more load on the splines? This would make it even more critical that the cone spacers and washers are in good shape and properly torqued.

Edited December 13, 20187 yr by Crazyeights

I have 30" swampers with 6 lug on my 10" t-case lifted hatch and have never had a spline failure. The cone washer is a mechanical shaft locking device. Properly installed it carries the load. 

GD