I put a used fuel tank in my 1982 Brat. My old one was rusted inside and would clog the fuel filter within minutes. The replacement tank seemed clean and rust free. I put 3.5 gallons of fuel in the new tank the tank after installation. The Brat fired right up but only because someone was adding liberal amounts of starting fluid directly to the carb. I disconnected the fuel lines at the newly installed fuel filter and they were dry, no fuel in the fuel filter. The nearby fuel pump sounded as though it were functioning properly. I then disconnect the fuel line that ran from the tank to the fuel filter and it was dry as well. 

Should 3.5 gallons be enough fuel to spill out of the outlet of the tank due to gravity alone?

If that metal section of fuel line from the bottom of the tank to the outlet is clogged are there any recommended options for clearing the obstruction?

Would any of those options potentially damage the tank in the process?

Do carby subes have in tank filter (sock)? I am only aware of the in line filter in front of the tank.

My camaro sucked the sock into the fuel line and luckily had a gas can and a 32 oz Gatorade bottle.

I pumped gas back through the line to unclog her later.

If you take the gas cap off, compressed air should have you freed up.

Should be an easy fix, happy wrenching!

Any recommendations on how to hook the compressed air up to the filler neck?

I tried using compressed air through the line that exits the tank, I only had a small portable compressor from Harbor Freight and it was not successful.

That could be dangerous. ....  the entire gastank isn't going to withstand much pressure.   Normal way to try to clear a plugged fuel line is back feeding the small outlet tube, with the tank filler open.  The small fuel line can withstand many times the pressure the tank can.  

Thanks, I was trying through the outlet tube with the filler cap on, makes more sense to have it off. I'll give this method a try tomorrow.

I did mine metal section by metal section starting at firewall mounted filter then back to rear filter and the final stage to the tank which is where I heard unmistakable sound of crud hit it's empty floor

Pristine inside the tank until dirty, rust crud blew out. I used a rag on a wire handle to coax it out the sender hole. Never gave trouble for the next 18 years

Oh, and all I used was a fire extinguisher that I kept filled with compressed air !

Thanks,

I've tried with my small compressor. Tomorrow I'll remove the tank again and bring take it to the local shop and try their large compressor.

I had this problem on a 1970 Datsun truck, it had been sitting a while. I pulled the tank and used a coat hanger. Kept jamming it through where the fuel line attaches, until it reached the bottom of the tank. No way air would have cleared it. Make sure your lines to the tank are clear.

12 minutes ago, 88SubGL said:

No way air would have cleared it.

This is why i pumped gas back through the feed line. 

Tried the wire trick, shoved it as far as it would go, no luck.

When you tried the wire trick, could you blow through the line. Mine had a lot of gunk in it. I would think I was all the way through and I wasn’t. I couldn’t blow through it. If you could, then either you still have a lot of trash in the tank or the problem is somewhere else. Make the lines are clear from the carb to the tank before going through the trouble of pulling the tank again.

I just fired up my 78 brat. It hadn't started for 10 years. I drained the tank ( gen ones have a drain bolt), blew the line from the pump back to the tank. I could get it to run on temporary gas supply but the pump wouldn't pick up the gas. So i undid the fuel line to the pump, took a rag to seal the gas tank off and used my compressor with a blow gun to pressurize the tank. Worked great. 

You should put the fuel line end in a can cause it will blow everywhere.

Is there anything I might damage if I keep trying to force a clog out with wire?

Just don't push it near any soft tissues, Take tank sender out of tank before poking in towards the tank. Other than that, is about it to look out for

I had to use pliers to force the wire through.

Thanks, I'll make the effort this weekend.

Still no luck unclogging this tank. Does anyone know of the whereabouts of a fuel tank to fit a 1982 Brat?

being a 1982 makes it the first year of the same body shape as the models made right up to 1992 in our case in Australia so any tank from any model from the next ten years should fit - just some models had different capacities. I can't see why the bolt pattern would change . Not had any complaints from the guys in the UK who have been sent tanks from Oz - not an exercise for the feint hearted when a wallet is attached !

 

BUT the EA81 body shape as in GEN2 stopped being sold as anything not Brumby here in Australia after 1984 and possibly same for US and if I recall BRAT sales stopped soon after in the US? So, don't try EA82 tank.....cooling system radiator places have been known to be able to restore fuel tanks. I cleaned my own EA82 mpfi tank with hydrochloric (hydro?) acid which worked great when I followed some internet instructions, Final step was to wash out with carb soda (baking soda in US speak) to neutralise any acid remaining, flush flush flush with fresh water. Recently saw someone restore old metal locks and hinges by soaking in molasses for three months..so if you can get 50 litres of molasses …..

Edited April 11, 20196 yr by Steptoe

Probably going to be a lot of people not agree to this but have you tried filling the lines with oil or even some WD40 or similar product?

 

Occasionally giving it a good soak with something to soften up the corrosion for a day or two before you hit it with compressed air will make all the difference.

 

Have also had some pretty good results using Eucalyptus oil on corrosion as well.

 

Cheers,

 

Al

Edited April 12, 20196 yr by Al Zhiemer

Thanks, I'll give that a try.