October 7, 20205 yr yes gasket matches the block, it needs to match the bore is the easy way to remember it. i'm almost certain it can be done but it's been 10 years since i've done one like that.
October 7, 20205 yr 14 hours ago, nicksubaru said: Is that oem subaru part in this screen shot? you used a part number search for that.. so yeah, all of them list the correct part number.. and that may, or may not be a factory gasket Go to the Part Catalog, >Subaru >2000 >Outback.. there are NO OEM gaskets listed.
October 7, 20205 yr Author If i do the backwards frankenmotor is there math that can guess what my CR ( compression ratio) will be? Again the bore is .020 over stock ej22 from 92 legacy, and heads from 00 OB (the actual car) I noticed that the pistons comes out of the deck a little bit, if i had a depth gauge i would measure that. Maybe that would be a good time to buy one... So if the head gasket needs to match the "bore" does the over size change that? With the pistons coming out the deck, negative deck height, would i need thicker head gasket?
October 7, 20205 yr 18 minutes ago, nicksubaru said: If i do the backwards frankenmotor is there math that can guess what my CR ( compression ratio) will be? Again the bore is .020 over stock ej22 from 92 legacy, and heads from 00 OB (the actual car) I noticed that the pistons comes out of the deck a little bit, if i had a depth gauge i would measure that. Maybe that would be a good time to buy one... So if the head gasket needs to match the "bore" does the over size change that? With the pistons coming out the deck, negative deck height, would i need thicker head gasket? there's an EJ excel sheet online somewhere if you dig around people have shared that calculates all sorts of stuff, i used to have it but it's long gone.
October 7, 20205 yr 22 minutes ago, nicksubaru said: If i do the backwards frankenmotor is there math that can guess what my CR ( compression ratio) will be? Again the bore is .020 over stock ej22 from 92 legacy, and heads from 00 OB (the actual car) I noticed that the pistons comes out of the deck a little bit, if i had a depth gauge i would measure that. Maybe that would be a good time to buy one... So if the head gasket needs to match the "bore" does the over size change that? With the pistons coming out the deck, negative deck height, would i need thicker head gasket? subaru block work i don't have much experience with, so don't go by me. but stock gasket for any standard oversizing is the general rule, i don't know if there are any caveats. Edited October 7, 20205 yr by idosubaru
October 7, 20205 yr Author Im not sure if im allowed to link from another subaru forum, but an admin will remove it if its not allowed https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1413118 I found this, but unfortunately i can't open it or the links in it say "not found"
October 7, 20205 yr Author The only reason i care about CR is i just want it to run good and for as long as possible. Im trying to use what i have available to me.
October 10, 20205 yr Author After doing my own research, i dont think ill have a good enough CR for an NA build. Unless someone else has an idea to raise the CR?
October 13, 20205 yr On 10/10/2020 at 12:43 PM, nicksubaru said: After doing my own research, i dont think ill have a good enough CR for an NA build. Unless someone else has an idea to raise the CR? wild unlikely options: 97+ pistons may be higher compression, don’t know if they interchange, but if it’s bored that’s maybe off the table anyway shave heads or thin custom gasket - probably a bad idea due to piston protrusion
October 14, 20205 yr Author Yea, i kinda gave up the idea of using that ej22 short block. Im wondering if its a good idea or not to remove the one connecting rod end from just that one that has little "play" seeing what it looks like. (the original ej25) i think i can get the cap off with out splitting the block... Maybe... And yes i know that your supposed to do all bearings and machine the crank. But its so small of a wiggle, maybe i could get away with just replacing that one bearing??? As of now, im already thinking that i could just put it back together with maybe 10w-40 or thicker oil and drive it easy. Might get another 10k miles out of it. There wasn't a knock when i pulled it. Thoughts? Edited October 14, 20205 yr by nicksubaru
October 14, 20205 yr 4 hours ago, nicksubaru said: Yea, i kinda gave up the idea of using that ej22 short block. Im wondering if its a good idea or not to remove the one connecting rod end from just that one that has little "play" seeing what it looks like. (the original ej25) i think i can get the cap off with out splitting the block... Maybe... And yes i know that your supposed to do all bearings and machine the crank. But its so small of a wiggle, maybe i could get away with just replacing that one bearing??? As of now, im already thinking that i could just put it back together with maybe 10w-40 or thicker oil and drive it easy. Might get another 10k miles out of it. There wasn't a knock when i pulled it. Thoughts? Is the bearing play causing excessive wear anywhere else? If it's early bearing failure and damage is only in the bearing itself....then yeah theoretically it should work if you can assemble the block back to original. If that wear results in play and wear on another component - that's where problems will arise. So investigate how that bearing is set up and what parts may be impacted and how you can test or perform some educated guess on that. But - it's never done. Bearings are rarely replaced as it is...not to mention any unique approach like this. If it is, it's going to be anecdotal, at best. And probably more like 3rd party, missing comparable information, etc. So it's impossible to get a good experience/data driven answer.
October 15, 20205 yr Author I believe this oil pump is 10mm. It should be very early bearing issue. Without removing the rod cap, there is zero show of issues to anything around it. The oil didn't have sparkles in it from what i could tell when i drained it. I may have to have a closer look at the old oil and see, i think i still have that oil somewhere around here
October 17, 20205 yr Author Im not sure if i should be happy with this... But i was able to remove the rod without spitting the block or even taking the piston out...
October 17, 20205 yr Author I probably should not have messed with it and just put it all back together...
October 17, 20205 yr Author The bearings say on them... F-112 979D Thats stamped on the under side of the bearings. On the rods its on that too but in a mirror image From what is seen from the pictures would i be able to get stock new bearing and put it back together? There's no way to clean/polish the crank from what i know of. Not with out rebuilding the whole short block... Unless someone in the Sacramento, CA area has a good short block for a cheap price, lol
October 18, 20205 yr I think you made the right choice not to just run with this block as it was. Cheers Bennie
October 18, 20205 yr Would have run ok with oil pressure. Probably would have lived a normal life. That's not terrible. Not great either but typical of these engines. Don't put in a new bearing. If you do anything just reassemble it as you found it and run it. GD
October 19, 20205 yr Author What would happen if i put in a new bearing? That's what i was thinking of doing. Figured that the new bearing would "break in" with the way the crank is. My other thoughts was that a new bearing would last longer then the old one. The old one has a little hole in it as you can see in the pic and there is small cracks in the old bearing too.
October 19, 20205 yr There is no "break in" on journal bearings - if contact occurs then it will destroy itself rapidly. That rod bearing is going to get as much oil as it's going to get from the mains no matter what you do and you are better off putting it back with the extra clearance it has. Get some Lubriplate assembly lube for it and stick it back in there. And this a 20w50 engine for the rest of it's life BTW. GD Edited October 19, 20205 yr by GeneralDisorder
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