WJM Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Ok, bleed bleed, and BLEED....fresh DOT 4... Pedal response is...well, sloppy. Stops still...but...sloppy pedal. Glazed rotor/pads? Cooked rubber lines? frozen something or n-other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 I thought DOT3 was best? maybe that's it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 The only real differences are in the detergents I thought. I say theres still air in them. You could try going to a shop and getting them powerbled. Definitely check your rubber lines too, if your brakes were on fire, the heat could have done a number on your rubber. Hehe, piss on your rotors so they get rusty, then go for a drive to try and scour the glazed surface off Just a joke (though it might work...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Probably just need more bleeding.... helps to have a friend. Can take a LONG time. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted August 3, 2004 Author Share Posted August 3, 2004 DOT 4 is essentially the same as 3...but it has a higher temperature rating. MY SUBARUs are NEVER going to a shop to have anyone else work on them. NEVER. I am going to do the rust thing tonight I think....its worth a shot. But with a WATER hose, not a pisser hose. LOL I am planning to get some braided steel lines to replace those rubber ones....at some point. I guess I'll just have'ta bleed dem a-gin. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Get a small vaccum pump and do it yourself. How did you go about bleeding your brakes? Subarus have quite a specific pattern. Jay I've got the 'mighty-vac' and it makes doing the brakes or checking for vaccum much easier. 40.00 at Harbor Freight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erhayes Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Subaru brake flushing sequence is::Front right,rear left,front left then rear right. Do a brake fluid FLUSH and not just a bleed. Flush each line untill new fluid is visable and NO air bubles are seen. ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Probably just need more bleeding.... helps to have a friend. Can take a LONG time. GD BLEED ON BROTHA I've bleend quarts of brake fluid through my GL wagon alone. I"ve even 'bench bled' the master cylinder a couple times. It really can take a LONG time There is hope! You can get 'speed bleeders' that replace your stock bleeders in the front caliper cylinders. For the rear you can do up some custom ones (since they dont make a direct replacement). Here is a link to my post on them. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16029&highlight=speed+bleeder Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp3 Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 If you haven't "deglazed" the pads (based on my earlier suggestion in another thread), then definitely give that a shot, it only takes a couple minutes (just take the pads out, hit them up with some rough sand paper, then reinstall). Otherwise, it sounds like you may still have some air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 yar, you got air. glazed would still work good, and not feel squishy. rear discs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted August 3, 2004 Author Share Posted August 3, 2004 discs rear. Sloppy with drums would mean i need to adust up the rears....but...discs...Yeah, im gonna get my FSM in today and see what it says about bleeding. Im gonna de-glaze the pads/rotors better, as they look glazed.....guess i need to stop by home despot and get some paper of sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 glazed would still work good, and not feel squishy. Yeah glazed up pads wont do anything to the feel of your pedal. Speed bleeders and the proper bleeding sequence should set you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawoohoo Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 you should also look into either replacing your brake line, with new rubber or some stainless braided line. thatll help with squishy brake feel, unless it is stiull air in your system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted August 3, 2004 Author Share Posted August 3, 2004 Ok, brake pads off and scuffed up REALLY REALLY WELL. I think I took of like 3-5 MM of pad off of each pad...and removed those shims. And....scuffed up the rotors well. Im going to bleed again...as the pedal still has a teeny bit of slop in it...with no vac in the booster and not moving....aka, sitting still. So...bleeding tiem again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted August 4, 2004 Author Share Posted August 4, 2004 Ok....bleed again...test drive....they ARE better...but still are not back to normal. Still....some slop. The right front locks up before anything else. Otherwise, with a good bit of pedal force...stops like it used to...but im having to use about 15% more pedal than before the "event" ?????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Keep bleeding and do yourself a favour and I know this goes against all documentation, but bleed with your engine ON as in with booster...really made the difference for me..It freaking MOVED the fluid and it seems that's what it needed..damn brake system in manual subs be complex.. hill holder and all that..it seems you need to really get the fluid moving in order to get all the air outta the lines...this was told to me by an 'old skool' mechanic who's been working on subs since the 70s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 I had the same thing happening last year, went round and round, bleeding again and again. Bled the master cylinder..voila! Rock solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted August 4, 2004 Author Share Posted August 4, 2004 I'll have to try then engine runnin bleed.....strange how the RX didnt do this.... NV: how do you just bleed the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Keep bleeding and do yourself a favour and I know this goes against all documentation, but bleed with your engine ON as in with booster...really made the difference for me..It freaking MOVED the fluid and it seems that's what it needed..damn brake system in manual subs be complex.. hill holder and all that..it seems you need to really get the fluid moving in order to get all the air outta the lines...this was told to me by an 'old skool' mechanic who's been working on subs since the 70s... Hey this isnt off the beaten path It really can help get ALL the air out. What sucks is if you are doing a 2 man bleed with one operating the manual bleeders its harder to time it so you dont suck air back in. ALso have to remember the simple things like having the garage door open and making sure you dont get a face FULL of brake fluid. That booster really shoots it out! With the speed bleeders and the engine running the booster is your friend. Those little buggers are a God send Truely makes it a one man bleed system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 RE: bleeding the master... My example is for EA 81, but the process is the same. There are two bleeders on the side of the master cylinder. I recommend removing the spare tire, mostly for access. Some hose that fits over the bleeder to direct the brake fluid to a catch container is also a good thing. Process is similar to bleeding at the calipers..fill the reservoir, replace the cap. Open one of the bleeders, depress pedal. Close bleeder before releasing the pedal, repeat. Do each bleeder separately. I usually repeat a couple or three times. Might want to bleed the calipers again, too. It's possible you have a small leak in a line somewhere..check them for wetness all the way to rule that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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