busdriver Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 My severe bucking problem is haunting me. I thought I had it solved with the gumout fuel inj. cleaner and the heet and the fuel filter but noooo. The soob still bucks like crazy. It seems to get much better after a good warm up, if I let it run for 10 minutes it seems ok. But if I jump in and go, then she don't go. Any ideas??? I'm new and stupid about soobs, but willing to learn! Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 ok I know you have been dealing with this for a while. what have you done/checked? what do you have to work with as far as trouble shooting tools? it sounds like ignition from the description but it could be any thing really. start by determining whats good. then see whos left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 17, 2004 Author Share Posted December 17, 2004 ok I know you have been dealing with this for a while. what have you done/checked? what do you have to work with as far as trouble shooting tools? it sounds like ignition from the description but it could be any thing really. start by determining whats good. then see whos left. I have put new plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor into her. She was running pretty good except for a lite surging when going down the highway. I have tools, I just don't know where to start looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 When I leave the soob in the garage, she does'nt buck going down the road. She has to sit outside at work, and when I just went to go to lunch she was bucking like crazy, didn't even make it to the end of the parking. l noticed black smoke coming from the exhaust, it sounds as though my muffler has a hole in it as well. I capped off the egr valve because I broke one of the stems off the egr solenoid. She was running fine this morning. Any help please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 Maybe the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 Maybe the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)? Where is this located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 Also might want to check your coil. If its getting a weak spark you'll have problems like this. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 Also might want to check your coil. If its getting a weak spark you'll have problems like this. -Brian Much thanks so far. I've been thinking about the coil cause it looks old and rusty, how do you check the coil? Also this may be contributed to my stumbling at highway speeds...right!??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 I'd go with the coil, too. It sounds a little too much go/no-go to be a failing thermoresistor like the CTS has. And coils will act differently at different temps, and engine load will stress the coil. (Needs to produce a greater voltage to jump the spark gap.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 21, 2004 Author Share Posted December 21, 2004 I'd go with the coil, too. It sounds a little too much go/no-go to be a failing thermoresistor like the CTS has. And coils will act differently at different temps, and engine load will stress the coil. (Needs to produce a greater voltage to jump the spark gap.) I'm feeling the "coil vibe" as well. I was noticing that the issue was rpm sensitive this a.m. on the way to work. As long as I didn't go over 2200 rpms it didn't buck. I'm ruling out fuel system for the time being since I've maintained a full tank of 92 oct. with fuel injector cleaner and isopropyl alcohol injections. I believe there is almost 140,000 miles on the original coil judging by appearance and I looked thru all the invoices for everything ever done to her, new brakes, engine, seals, clutch assembly, tires as well as every oil change written down. But no mention of a coil. They replaced the engine because of loss of compression in cyl. #1, seems extreme to me, I wonder where that engine is now? I found a coil for $40.00 bucks at NAPA, I'll pick it up on the way home tonight and let you know what happens. Thanks all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 same thing happaned here , i checked everything like you did , you might turn up your timming from .20 to .22 , under the hood it says +or - 2 degrees , by turning the dist , mine was so bad that it would start and then die after 10 sec, if you keep your foot on the gas it would run ,then after you warmed it up it was ok, but it bucked like crazy ,i also replaced my coolant temp sensor , which was flashing a code , i replaced it but still had the problem [ 68.00 bucks from dealer] just my .2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americanyouth Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 Maybe the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)? What I was thinking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 i was having a surging once.if your coil doesn't seem to solve your problem , check you wires to your alternator.i hada loose ground wire once.it seemed to charge ok, but when i was driving it , it would buck like the first time a bull gets his b a l l s tied up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 always good to thoroughly check every sensor electrical connection under the hood. make sure none are corroded, dirty, exposed wires...etc. pull them off of each sensor and look to make sure you see nice shiney clean metal contacts. you don't even need to know what sensor it is...just start unclipping htem and having a look and cleaning htem up. or you can start the car...and wiggle all the connectors while it's idling. a bad connection will cause the idle to go all over the place. no engine codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 CHECK FOR CODES FIRST........... You should always start by checking for codes..... Your ECM is under the dash almost center iunder the steering wheel..... Pull the coverplastic if its there, and with the key in on position you should get a series of led flashes.....If it is just a constal even flash start the car up..... Now if there is an Engine Management issue the ECM should start flashing long and Short dashes......long is 10 short is 1 so 2 long and a short would be 21.... Get the picture....???? Have pen and paper ready, as it may spit out a bunch of them..... My first guess off hand Would Be Coolant Temp Sensor, But if your Check engine light has not come on , Then it would suggest that it is an issue outside the ECM's Control.....leaving only a few area's to look..... Check Codes, and let us know...... Hope this helps, John P.s. USRM has code referance in it I believe....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 21, 2004 Author Share Posted December 21, 2004 CHECK FOR CODES FIRST........... You should always start by checking for codes..... Your ECM is under the dash almost center iunder the steering wheel..... Pull the coverplastic if its there, and with the key in on position you should get a series of led flashes.....If it is just a constal even flash start the car up..... Now if there is an Engine Management issue the ECM should start flashing long and Short dashes......long is 10 short is 1 so 2 long and a short would be 21.... Get the picture....???? Have pen and paper ready, as it may spit out a bunch of them..... My first guess off hand Would Be Coolant Temp Sensor, But if your Check engine light has not come on , Then it would suggest that it is an issue outside the ECM's Control.....leaving only a few area's to look..... Check Codes, and let us know...... Hope this helps, John P.s. USRM has code referance in it I believe....... Many thanks for the info. Very helpful. I checkd for codes, at the on position the light just constantly flashed (once a second for 20 seconds. With the engine on no codes appear after 30 seconds of running. Is this long enough to pull codes? Knowing this what/ where else should I start looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzician Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 I was experiencing craziness too and it turned out that the headers on one side were mental causing a bit of noise and maybe freaking out the knock sensor. We also changed the fuel pump as well. Maybe the filter was getting a little plugged with gas tank crap. I'm looking at the gas tank too as someone had some success with doing that as it maybe getting old. Sometimes at stop lights too, when I accelerate, it's like I don't get fuel for about 3 or 4 seconds and I nearly stall. simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 22, 2004 Author Share Posted December 22, 2004 I'm still thinking coil for some reason. I haven't had a chance to replace it (the new one is sitting in the consle). It hasn't bucked hard for two days now, but is still stumbling a bit on the highway, actually I thought it died at one point cause it didn't just stumble...it fell flat on its face. But kept going and everything been somewhat okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 27, 2004 Author Share Posted December 27, 2004 I believe I have found the problem. On my way home Thursday the alternator died, leaving me stranded in a pretty good(24+ inches) snow storm. I had her hauled home, and went to work. I replaced the alternator and coil both NAPA brand. The battery took some abuse I suspect because now it does'nt seem like it's holding a charge. I trickle charged it for a day back to full capacity. If the car sits overnight it barely starts (remote start won't activate) and the engine cranks very slowly. Should I consider the battery dead, or should I second guess on the alternator. It says it was computer tested...and we all know computers don't lie, right?!??! One more question, is there a voltage regulator on the alternator or is it in the engine bay somewhere? Would this be another suspect to my battery not seeming charged? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 if your battery is not that new bat had been dependable till now, a strenuous cranking such as trying to start the car in the cold after being stressed with no alternator can do it in. if a lead acid battery is drained often or cranked till dead it will break up the lead plates over time. also a weaker battery will pull more load from the alternator to keep charge, robbing amps or stressing the alternator. now that you have a new alt and coil you will want a new battery as a sure bet. if you persist to have problems with the car after that, keep an eye on the engine codes. a coolant temp sensor(for the ecu, not the gauge) can be the single most problematic component on the turbo engine, as people have posted about such problems often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 I agree with MilesFox about adding the new battery. You should always change out the battery with a new alternator unless the battery is inexcellent shape. I used to own an '88 GL-10 turbo and had a similar problem of studdering while going up a particular hill. After the car had died on the road the fuel pump was replaced and that problem went away. If you have not checked the fuseable links for a loose connection yet I would do that. They are in the small black box mounted on the coolant reservoir. It may be the real cause of this and what caused the alternator problem also. Another thing to look for is a leak in the intake manifold gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busdriver Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 At this point I am going to say that all my stumbling is gone, the engine runs stronger and smoother then ever considering I've owned the car for 3 months. I almost feel like I could race something. I going to follow up the the fuse idea and I'm trying to track down the plastic clip that attaches the two wires at the back of the alternator. The one I have looks a bit worn out which may be a sign of something as well. I see it as a weak point and want to fix it. Thanks for all the help with this. I hope it helps someone else diagnose their problem for they end up broken down somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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