Well, i will be buying this 92 loyale shortly just as soon as the girl that owns it finds the honda she wants...anyways, i was driving it last night and it drives extremely well. Only thing i noticed was that once warm, oil pressure drops to about 15-20.. is this normal for the ea-82? there are no leak or engine noises accompanying the drop in pressure..also, it is a bit difficult at times to shift it back into first compared to other manuals ive driven, but think it'll just take a bit of time to get used to it in that regard..

cheers

Check the oil pressure with a real gauge - the dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate. And if there's no noise associated with 15 PSI, then it very well could be your gauge, as I think that would surely cause lifter chatter. Check the shift linkage for that hard shifting problem - could be binding. If it isn't, then it's probably just the first gear syncro going out. No big deal - many older trucks and such didn't even have a first gear syncro. You had to come to a complete stop to get it into first.

 

GD

well. alot of old subarus, over like 70k miles, dont like to go into frist untill youare almost stopped. its because the first gear is so short, and the syncros are going bad. it wont effect anything else, except shifting into first. doesnt mean the tranny will go bad in the near future. and the oil pressure? is that at idle or on the highway? at idle the pressure could be that low and be safe.

no, that oil pressure reading is while driving around town..on highway it is at around 40-45..

Try shifting into 2nd and then 1st.

That oil pressure is dead on to my '88 GL wgn. My impellar shaft is rather worn out and this could be a contributing factor. I tried resealing it but didnt improve pressure. Wouldnt hurt to check it with another guage as suggested.

 

As to the shifting try double clutching or rev matching to slip her in. I usally never use the clutch going into 1st gear from 2nd or 3rd. I just slow down plenty and find the sweet spot to slip it in.

Originally posted by archemitis

well. alot of old subarus, over like 70k miles, dont like to go into frist untill youare almost stopped. its because the first gear is so short, and the syncros are going bad.

 

You'll have to pardon my ignorance... I know as much about transmissions as I do about the internal workings of my computer's processor... yeah, I get the major concepts down, but don't ask me any details :-\

 

I've got the same problem in my '92 Loyale... intermittently goes into first pretty hard, and reverse has been grinding every now and then, if I'm not careful. Worn synchro's? I've never heard of anybody replacing/repairing synchro's before, so I'm assuming it's an integral part of the transmission, and I might be better off swapping the tranny first.

i think that that would be a normal desighn, keeps you from throwing it in first accidentally and redlining it inadvertently.

if shifting into first while rolling, it would help to rev it up a little to match rpm

My tranny took a hard grind while pulling a boat about 15 years ago! It has been a little hesitant to shift fast 1-2 ever since. The bottom line is it WAS 15 YEARS AGO! Syncros are probably shot in 1st so what!

 

In my owners manual it states that if your car is sitting the oil pressure gauge may drop.....and.....not to be alarmed. I have found if I give it a little gas the gauge pops right back where it should be.

 

Don't know if any of this helps,

Glenn

82 Hatch, transforming....:temper:

01 Forester, jealous....:madder:

whatever your gauge reads at 2500 rpm will be your pressure to determine by.

if it goes to 15 or 20 at idle, sounds ok to me.

 

i have seen 45psi readings slowlt tricle down to almost 0 at idle. at least you have pressure at idle.

 

ma want to do the pump seal as precautionary, but the pump sounds like its ok to me. i personally wouldnt worry about it

I jes resealed my EA82 about 6 months ago, and even when it was first done, the oil pressure would be about 10-15 at idle, not too much of a problem. If it's sitting closer to 0 at idle, then I would worry about it.

My '85 runs ~40-45 unless @ idle, where it sits around 10psi. My theory is: w/ hydraulic lifters, you'll hear LOTS of ticking before you have a pressure problem... no noise, no problem!!! After all, you aren't pushing your engine all that hard anyway.

 

Rich

My EA81 with hydraulic lifters is above 25 at idle, and rises to pegged (higher than 75) at freeway speed. Just for a comparison. EA82's may be lower cause of more oil demand to the cams I would think. That's just my numbers if anyone is interested.

 

GD

BT some very cheap and simple (maybe) solutions to your problems

 

1) Change the oil to Castrol 20/w 50 GTX

 

2) Change the tranny oil to Redline 75/90 NS

 

Redline does wonders for "balky" shifters -first gear esp.

 

Castrol is the best I've found for our engines, 20w/50 works great, a splash (read 6 oz. or so) of Marvels Mystery Oil is also a help.

If it is still low enough to bother you, I would get a new sender unit. (easy to reach right beside the oil filter) I have had several that the gauge was fine and the sender went a little south. They also can begin to leak at your mileage. They go for about 20 bucks on line. Just make sure you get a sender unit not a switch (for idiot lighted cars) unit

Hope this helps

thanks folks for the help....in a couple weeks when its mine, i'll do the fluid changes as previously mentioned...

cheers

To prevent grinding when shifting at a stop, shift into 4th(or 5th) before going into reverse or 2nd before going into 1st.

I was told that the gears across from each other share syncros and shifting into the higher gear helps spin them up.

Works for FERTHER!

Originally posted by beauregaardhooligan

To prevent grinding when shifting at a stop, shift into 4th(or 5th) before going into reverse or 2nd before going into 1st.

 

Geez, I hope so... It's gettin' embarrassing stopping down at the parking lot quickly after noticing somebody beginning to pull out, and either grinding the gears or having to wait several seconds before I can reverse

 

Thanks for the tip

My wagon grinds going from 4th to 3rd - just a little. Smooth from 2nd to third, but not on downshift. It gets worse the faster your going when you do it (of course)..... anyone got any ideas?

 

GD

hey BlueTrain

 

I did a oil pump and front crank seal last weekend to stop an oil leak (crank seal was hard as a rock and loose), in the process of trying to remove the pressure sender from the oil pump I twisted the cover just a bit (should have removed the sender while the pump was on the engine, more leverage). Since then my gauge would periodically drop to near 0, with no change in sound from the engine. So last night, while doing a oil change I decided to temporarily tee in a mechanical gauge I had, just to check things out, at the time a noticed just a bit of oil seeping from the screw terminal on the sender (problem found). The dash gauge read near 0 most of the way into work this morning but the mechanical one held a steady 38lb or so. I’d bet yours is a bad sender, try an oil change too, maybe just really old oil. NAPA said $32 for the sender, a little steep, but much better than a bad pump.

 

BTW, my manual said the oil pressure spec for the EA82 is 43lb @ 5000rpm, so apparently the EA82 is a fairly low pressure engine.

 

Gary

if you are in neutral for a few moments, sometimes it has a tendency to grind. i always pit it in first(from a stop) before i go into reverse!

 

and its really easy to rock a mt from 1st to reverse in a mid/snow hole to get things going, if your timing is right

skip, wouldnt using castrol 20-50 be a bit thick for the winter months??

I've managed stop that grinding going into reverse... after I've come to a stop, I shift into fifth, then into fourth, and finally over to reverse. Stops the grinding, and I don't feel like an idiot waiting 'til I can shift. She usually won't go from fifth to reverse, though... gotta swing it back on over to fourth first. *shrug*

GeneralDisorder,

My 87 does the same thing you discribe. The problem is the third gear syncro. When down shifting to 3rd, if I double clutch... no grind.

 

You may know this trick (double clutch), but here goes. From 4th quickly clutch and shift to neutral. Let the clutch out with the shifter in neutral and give the throttle a quick blip (should raise the rpm approx 800-1000 rpm from where you were when in 4th). Now clutch and shift from neutral into third.

 

With practice, done correctly and smoothly, it's two quick pumps of the clutch pedal with a blip of the throttle between and you get both the input and output shafts of the transmission spinning approx the same rpm and the gears will mesh w/o a grind.

Works for any downshift where you grind.

Try it you'll like it!

Superoo

Bard: Isn't R behind 5? It should not be possible to pull from 5 back to R, there is a detent that engages when you move the lever right and forward. It doesn't release again until you go past neutral.

 

And for sure, double de-clutch it when you want first while still moving. 90% of my shifts are double de-clutched, once you get into the groove it becomes very satisfying. Left side of my right foot rests on the brake, the right side taps the gas on the way through neutral....ahhhhh!

 

You can also use this to shift upward if you want to skip a gear. If I go from 2 to 4 I will lift the clutch pedal (no throttle) on the way past neutral to slow the gearbox internals for a smooth shift.

Originally posted by Setright

Bard: Isn't R behind 5? It should not be possible to pull from 5 back to R, there is a detent that engages when you move the lever right and forward. It doesn't release again until you go past neutral.

 

That might just explain why it won't go from fifth to reverse. Ya know, it makes sense...