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Drilled rim questions

Featured Replies

I have a set of rims from a d-50 and want to re drill them...so...I know that there is allot of debate about this, but what I'm interested in is what advice people that have done this would give. for example what size and type drill bit, press or hand etc. any help would be great!

Counter sink your holes so the lugs will fit properly. Our wheels are lug centric, not hub centric... if the holes aren't counter sunk, the lugs wont do their job properly.

 

-Brian

  • Author

thanks for the advice! time to get drillin' hope to have pics soon.:banana:

I second what they both say. I've drilled rims on three cars so far with no issues, just for sure make sure you bevel that whole or else your lug nuts will back off on there own.

for counter sinking can you just use a bigger bit or do you have to have them countersunk?im thinking of drilling a set myself but I would need to go to a machine shop to have them countersink holes ($$$) if I could even find a shop willing to do it.something about liablilty

for counter sinking can you just use a bigger bit or do you have to have them countersunk?im thinking of drilling a set myself but I would need to go to a machine shop to have them countersink holes ($$$) if I could even find a shop willing to do it.something about liablilty

 

You wouldn't need a machine shop to do the counter sink. Any good hardware store should have a 60deg countersink with a large enough diameter. Then you would just need a decent drill press.

I never used a drill press once. Just a drill. I beleive it was a 9/16 drill bit ( can't be sure). I just took an old drum break, punched 2 of the studs opposing eachother, flipped it over, and drilled through the back using the 2 wholes where the studs used to be as guides. After I drilled the wholes, then I beveled them with a counter sink but. It's not nearly as complex as it sounds, it took like maybe an hour to do all four rims, and since two of the wholes are already there, you only need to do two per rim. You do HAVE to use a 6 lug rim though to get the space for the wholes, the 5 lug rims will have overlapping wholes.

  • 2 weeks later...

I think the 6 lug is best because... there are so many different aftermarket rims... im going to use pug myslef so i dont have to drill

I think the 6 lug is best because... there are so many different aftermarket rims... im going to use pug myslef so i dont have to drill

 

It's not just the drilling - the Pug's don't always have the right offset for what some of us need.

 

GD

Yo gd that drill from the frieght works ok though huh.. i used to work there, I dont know they had 1 here in portland. well thast where i am right now

how hard is it to remove one of the drums?is it easier and worth the time?

  • Author
how hard is it to remove one of the drums?is it easier and worth the time?

I used a disk that was already pulled off a sub (BIG thanks to Lance and Ben and tin soldier). worked very well. removed 2 opposing lugs and slid it on to the rim. you might want to see if some one around you has a drum/disk already removed. or head out to the local yard and get your self a rear disk break upgrade(if you do not have the turbo)and use your old drum.well worth the time. no calculating. just bolt on the 2 lugs fill the hole with a marker,center punch,remove drum,drill pilot hole,drill hole,bevel edge and wha la! i hope to have picks soon.

  • Author

OK pic time! they look darn good, i think! fresh paint some fender trimming and 10.5 in at the rear diff. i know what your thinking...ges bud get a lift already!:lol: ...well hopefully soon. got the rims and tires for free so had to put them on.:rolleyes:

 

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how hard was it to get the holes perfect?

 

ive been told that if the bolts arnt drilled perfectly you will shear off lugs.or does that only happen with hub centric cars?

how hard is it to remove one of the drums?is it easier and worth the time?
Either use a 36mm socket + breaker-bar or a huge adjustible spanner/wrench to get the hub nut off (after taking out the pin ofcause!) then stand on the spanner/breaker-bar. Then you pull off the hub/drum.. You don't even need to take the wheel off ! :grin: But it's best to while it's on the car. Sometimes you need the wheel on there to get the hub off the splines.

 

Check out this if your interested.

http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/6stud_conversion.html

  • Author
Did you make sure to bevel those holes?

 

-Brian

yes i did bevel them.

A railroad service cart/speeder!:cool:

 

These rims have a top shuuuuu! secret use!:eek:

I have to use special lug nuts to reach deep enough to find my studs because the rims are so thick to get the proper offset.

 

The drilling process was simple.

 

Spent way more time checking and double checking than drilling.

holy hell what could you possibly use those wheels for other than driving on the railroad?

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