dj3stripes Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 on the topic of my 1995 legacy LS what do you all recommend? OEM or specific manufacturers for general maintenance? I'm talking about oil, filters, plugs, wires, coolant, pads, rotors and anything else you could think of flushing/changing durring routine maintenance. and another question, has anybody installed the upgraded tweeters? they appear to go in triangle up against the mirror. i've seen removal instructions, and a few popped up on ebay and i'm considering purchasing a set, they seem to LOOK nice, also, has anybody installed the under-seat sub's? as always thanks for reading/replying, i browse this forum several times a day, even tho most of the information doesn't apply to me or my car, and i dont have much to offer for input, its just fun reading all of the help that gets posted here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 on the topic of my 1995 legacy LS what do you all recommend? OEM or specific manufacturers for general maintenance? I'm talking about oil, filters, plugs, wires, coolant, pads, rotors and anything else you could think of flushing/changing durring routine maintenance. and another question, has anybody installed the upgraded tweeters? they appear to go in triangle up against the mirror. i've seen removal instructions, and a few popped up on ebay and i'm considering purchasing a set, they seem to LOOK nice, also, has anybody installed the under-seat sub's? as always thanks for reading/replying, i browse this forum several times a day, even tho most of the information doesn't apply to me or my car, and i dont have much to offer for input, its just fun reading all of the help that gets posted here Ive installed the tweeters, it makes a big difference in sound. odd how my car had the premium sound system but no tweeters, its an easy install. Spark plug wires are OE, Plugs are OE (but not from subaru). Oil filters OE can be competativly priced with aftermarket, just dont go cheap. Use a brand name. Oil can be anyones, same with antifreeze tranny oil etc. Pads and rotors, unless your upgrading the rotors, use OE. Pads can be either, but never by the cheap ones, and go with name brand. DOnt turn the rotors as they dont always like it. Dums can be turned (but it rarely is needed) Anitfreeze every 2 years, tranny fluid every three (your tranny will love you). Do not use tap water in the cooling system, use deminerilized water, or pre mix. Timing belt, pcv and thermostat OE. Never use chemical flushes. General rule of thumb when replacing a part, if the original part lasted over 100,000 miles, replace it with OE (as they must be doing something right) Timing belt, for your car every other one replace cam seals, main seal, water pump tensioner and oil pump seals. At 200K (or near it) by your car a gift of a new oil pump. Watch your temp gauge, dont let the car over heat, and it will run forever. If it does overheat, change the oil when you repair it. if you see your temo gauge go 3/4 up, the ac cut out, then go down, you have a clogged raditor or the fins have fell off. All 4 tires should match and be within 1/4 inch of wear around the circumfrence. Keep them inflated the same. Thats all i can think of. Im sure somone will chime in and say im wrong (that never happens hehehehe). nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj3stripes Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 thanks again for the info nipper. what about drilled rotors? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-98-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-Drilled-Rotors-Rotor-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ019QQitemZ8076396731QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW see em all over ebay, but not sure if they'd be worth the time and money, mine are fine right now, no grooves in them, but the pads only lasted about 9months looking at the previous owner's service records Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 thanks again for the info nipper. what about drilled rotors? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-98-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-Drilled-Rotors-Rotor-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ019QQitemZ8076396731QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWsee em all over ebay, but not sure if they'd be worth the time and money, mine are fine right now, no grooves in them, but the pads only lasted about 9months looking at the previous owner's service records OE. Slotted rotors are good. Drilled are bad unlkess your 100% sure where they are coming from (same for slots), which ebay your not. They crack easily. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bepa Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 OE. Slotted rotors are good. Drilled are bad unlkess your 100% sure where they are coming from (same for slots), which ebay your not. They crack easily. nipper one day have to get to meet nipper. just about weverything he said is good or better advise for you and myself as well. judge brake wear by how you drive. best way to keep brakes on a car is drive like you have very little brakes to use and you wish to same what is left. that said you could be one of the drivers who drives like he do not need brakes after he parks his car ( is this me ). I have always wanted drilled rotors; yet my ML 55 does not have drilled or slotted rotors. I have done dead stops from over a 100 m.p.h. and not faded the brakes or warpped the rotors. enough sAid about drilled or sloted. save your money, get a good price or OEM and buy them. you can up grade to a newer motor, stick shift, bigger brakes from a later model. most WRX parts fit your car, brakes rotors, struts, motors, transmissions. the strut tower bar fits also. read on and you will learn what ever you need. be well, D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Nice one Nipper, you covered everything (We only differ in the details) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spasmonaut Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Not to bring up something that's already been said, but I'm aware that head gaskets have been somewhat touchy on earlier Subaru engines. I have a 2001 Forest 2.5 SOHC automatic and am looking to do a coolant change as part of my 60k service. Is any antifreeze in general good enough once I mix in the conditioner? Anyone care to offer a particular recommendation? Not looking to buy factory fluids as getting to the dealer is a PITA as there's construction for half a mile around them and feel comfortable using aftermarket stuff. As well, any tips on changing the plugs, as far as the physical maintenance is actually concerned? Remove the air box on the passenger side, battery/washer reservoir on driver side? Would that be sufficient? Just looking for tips from the pro's. Thanks for getting this thread started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skizix Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 As well, any tips on changing the plugs, as far as the physical maintenance is actually concerned? Remove the air box on the passenger side, battery/washer reservoir on driver side? Would that be sufficient? Just looking for tips from the pro's. Thanks for getting this thread started. Air box and washer rez removed will be sufficient (battery is not necessary). Here is a key tip for doing plugs on a 2.5: duct tape the plug socket wrench to your extension (which you'll need for sure -- the tunnels are deep) before you start. Otherwise, when you go pull the extension and socket out of the tunnel, the extension is likely to come out without the socket, leaving it out of reach in a bad way, and you scratching your head as to how to retrieve it. My plug sockets have a rubber liner, to protect the ceramic insulator, and that rubber really grips the plug, making this scenario pretty much certain, if I didn't have the extension duct taped on there. Also, pretty obvious, but to make things easier, get the socket/extension you've taped together down into the hole and onto the plug, before attaching the ratchet handle. It is a good idea to put anti-seize on the new plug threads, since the head is aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lekmedm Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Air box and washer rez removed will be sufficient (battery is not necessary). Here is a key tip for doing plugs on a 2.5: duct tape the plug socket wrench to your extension (which you'll need for sure -- the tunnels are deep) before you start. Otherwise, when you go pull the extension and socket out of the tunnel, the extension is likely to come out without the socket, leaving it out of reach in a bad way, and you scratching your head as to how to retrieve it. My plug sockets have a rubber liner, to protect the ceramic insulator, and that rubber really grips the plug, making this scenario pretty much certain, if I didn't have the extension duct taped on there. Also, pretty obvious, but to make things easier, get the socket/extension you've taped together down into the hole and onto the plug, before attaching the ratchet handle. It is a good idea to put anti-seize on the new plug threads, since the head is aluminum. I actually replaced the plugs by getting at them from under the car. It wasn't necessarily easier, but I didn't have to remove any components like you do from the top. Not too bad overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhrocker Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Air box and washer rez removed will be sufficient (battery is not necessary). Here is a key tip for doing plugs on a 2.5: duct tape the plug socket wrench to your extension (which you'll need for sure -- the tunnels are deep) before you start. Otherwise, when you go pull the extension and socket out of the tunnel, the extension is likely to come out without the socket, leaving it out of reach in a bad way, and you scratching your head as to how to retrieve it. My plug sockets have a rubber liner, to protect the ceramic insulator, and that rubber really grips the plug, making this scenario pretty much certain, if I didn't have the extension duct taped on there. Also, pretty obvious, but to make things easier, get the socket/extension you've taped together down into the hole and onto the plug, before attaching the ratchet handle. It is a good idea to put anti-seize on the new plug threads, since the head is aluminum. The duct tape is a good idea on for the plug socket. The first time I did my plugs, the socket came off the ratchet and I thought I was screwed. After I got it out, I went to Home Depot and got a set of locking extensions. They are my best friend now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstwagon Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 [quote= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstwagon Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 It is a good idea to put anti-seize on the new plug threads, since the head is aluminum. Actually it's a good idea to always use anti-seize, even on cast iron heads. Nothing worse then having one stuck, hard to reach plug ruining your afternoon. Quickly turns an easy 15 minute job into an hour and half of cursing and scraped knuckles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Don't overtighten the plugs! Do the work on a cold engine, apply a small amount of anti-seize, and tighten until the plugs resists turning, you only need the strenght in a wrist, not a whole arm. You should be able to sense it as the new pulg gasket is pressed flat. Stop right after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Yes, the duct tape or locking extension is a good piece of advice. The first time I chamged my plugs, I got the socket stuck in the hole and had to "custom-fabricate" an extraction tool by bending a small hook at the end of a metal coat hanger. It worked really well to grab the socket, so I haven't graduated to the duct tape myself... I agree on the anti-seize every time. A jar of it will cost ten dollars or less and probably last your lifetime. If you have a torque wrench, you can torque the plugs to about 12 ft lbs, or if you have a good feel for it, it is just slightly tight. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spasmonaut Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Excellent advice folks....very much appreciated. How about antifreeze? That's my only other conundrum. It's my first time doing plugs but I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I'm not threatened by any of this stuff. If anything, I'm over-cautious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Excellent advice folks....very much appreciated. How about antifreeze? That's my only other conundrum. It's my first time doing plugs but I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I'm not threatened by any of this stuff. If anything, I'm over-cautious. yes your car needs antifreeze ..... nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spasmonaut Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 yes your car needs antifreeze ..... nipper Cute...what I meant was, what sort of antifreeze do you guys and gals use? Just paranoid about all the advisories given about head gaskets with these engines. Off-the-shelf Prestone generally OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Cute...what I meant was, what sort of antifreeze do you guys and gals use? Just paranoid about all the advisories given about head gaskets with these engines. Off-the-shelf Prestone generally OK? aww shux he said im cute ! ani name brand will do it. Just make sure you get all the air out of the system and use a 50/50 pre mix. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Breaking News: Nipper goes out on a limb with outrageous claims... yes your car needs antifreeze ..... nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Breaking News: Nipper goes out on a limb with outrageous claims... i hear there is this technology that allows people to talk to each other without string, dixie cups or wires.... it must be the devils work nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 See kids go to school and u can know everything about a subaru.! Just like nipper. One day it will happen to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 i hear there is this technology that allows people to talk to each other without string, dixie cups or wires.... it must be the devils work nipper Nope wifi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 See kids go to school and u can know everything about a subaru.! Just like nipper. One day it will happen to me! your scaring me again ... i dont knw everything, my weakness is the ecu, but im learning nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 your scaring me again ... i dont knw everything, my weakness is the ecu, but im learning nipper LOL, and my weakness is the TCU and ECU, ANd the SUB and ARU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj3stripes Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 i hate to beat a dead horse, so sorry for raising an oldie: i've decided not to order oem brake pads, instead go with a 'reputable brand' what should that be? i'm not much of a mechanic, but on the previous car, i changed many-a-pads and know how to do it, i was just curious what your recommendations are for pads. i don't drive the car too rough, and i always slow down as opposed to jamming the brakes at the last few feet like some suburbia soccer moms. i'd like to change the pads as they're squeaking now, and i'm driving from omaha to KC this weekend. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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