seanski06 Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 the other day i noticed my rim was all muddy....took a closer look and realized my outer boot tore and dumped grease all over my wheel.... well i bought a replacement boot,grease and weird clamps from the subaru dealership for over 25 bucks......i started browsing through the haynes book for replacing boots....and it looks like a whole lot of work.....i have a 96 impreza L AWD with almost 199k on it...and i know for sure that its not going to be fun trying to break the bolts holding my steering knuckle....i've never replaced an axle or had to pop a ball joint....but like i said it looks like its gonna suck for just a torn boot you guys have done it all before....are there any easier ways to do this job that i should know of ?? or how would you recommend me changing this boot...i talked to a couple of friends bout it and they just say let it go till it breaks...which sure who cares if its not their car...but i figured 25 bucks is better than whatever a used axle would cost and still having to do all the work..... let me know what you think...or what you've done...as far as keeping water and dirt out of the joint thats not going to happen.....im constantly driving on dusty dirty roads and the past couple days that its been torn has been nothing but rainy/hail stone weather....and yes wouldnt you know i had to take a 100 miles trip back and forth in the storm the same day the boot tore thanks in advanced -sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Replace the halfshaft. Not worth the time or effort to try to replace the boot/fill it with grease/etc. Besides, who knows what dirt got into that joint with the boot torn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I agree replace the shaft, It is not that tough get a Haynes manual, it is detailed where it is easy to do. Replace the halfshaft. Not worth the time or effort to try to replace the boot/fill it with grease/etc. Besides, who knows what dirt got into that joint with the boot torn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Try to take the gear back that you have for arefund - start saving your money while shopping for a half shaft - you have LOTS of time. It will be fine for a while, then start clicking in extreme turns, then click in shallow turns, then it will click all the time, that's when it begins to be imperative to fix it. probably weeks to months away from now. We have a local place that will swap in rebuilt halfshafts with a lifetime warranty for about $150 . If you don't wanna do it yourself, shop around for a plave the specializes in FWD axles. You might be surprised how cheaply you can have someone else fix it. good luck Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I used to get mine replaced for 122.00 dollars parts and labor, but they would only last around one year, so now I get them from Subaru, and put them in myself. Try to take the gear back that you have for arefund - start saving your money while shopping for a half shaft - you have LOTS of time. It will be fine for a while, then start clicking in extreme turns, then click in shallow turns, then it will click all the time, that's when it begins to be imperative to fix it. probably weeks to months away from now. We have a local place that will swap in rebuilt halfshafts with a lifetime warranty for about $150 . If you don't wanna do it yourself, shop around for a plave the specializes in FWD axles. You might be surprised how cheaply you can have someone else fix it. good luck Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 AWD halfshafts can be had from autozone for $59+ tax. These have a lifetime warranty. Then, you can either replace it yourself or pay someone an hour's worth of labor to do it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilroy Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I'm not sure if the Impreza halfshaft is the same removal procedure as my Legacy, but it must be close. I have never removed a halfshaft before and I had to do it while removing a transmission/front diff at the wrecking yard. It was really quite a simple procedure, one should be able to do it without any previous experience in well under a couple hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaysz Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Well I have a 96 Imp OB, and I have had the boots torn since I bought the car with 103k, I currently have 125k and have not heard a click yet, and yes I have listened and haven't heard a click. When they start clicking I will replace it immediately but as yet, no clicking or problems of any kind. Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanski06 Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 i bought the parts straight from the dealership....i'll have to read the reciept about the return policy.....anyone know off hand what a dealer charges for one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 i bought the parts straight from the dealership....i'll have to read the reciept about the return policy.....anyone know off hand what a dealer charges for one of these? Don't buy the parts from the dealership. They will choke you to death. Get remanufactured ones from autozone or some parts store with a lifetime warranty. The dealer will charge you at least double of what a normal parts store will for a part with no warranty. Why is it that people always want to go to the dealer for parts!? Argh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 i got one for $60 at advance auto a while back and it took the garage 10 min. to change it, my boot was completly gone and it had been like that for a while. it never made any noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 i bought the parts straight from the dealership....i'll have to read the reciept about the return policy.....anyone know off hand what a dealer charges for one of these? If you want to get one from the dealer, at least make them match an online OEM dealer price like from http://www.subarugenuineparts.com . They should have no problem taking unused parts in original packing condition back, especially with a reciept. If the counterman says he isn't allowed, talk to his boss. Don't get belligerent, just explain that, at this time, you are forced to pursue the cheapest/best way out and you are gonna save up for a half-shaft and you're giving your neighbor a six pack to help you swap it out in a coupla months/whatever. Say, "I'm sure you had a time in your life when money was tight", or "What would you do in my position?" etc. They should realize the goodwill is worth more than the refund hassle. If they won't refund, get credit and pick up some oil/air filters. keep us updated OK? Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smpol19 Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Don't buy the parts from the dealership. They will choke you to death. Get remanufactured ones from autozone or some parts store with a lifetime warranty. The dealer will charge you at least double of what a normal parts store will for a part with no warranty. Why is it that people always want to go to the dealer for parts!? Argh... I've driven well over 10k miles on a torn boot before replaceing it and it never made a sound, so you've got plenty of time to save up some cash for a new one. As for whether to go dealer or parts store for it, my experience has been you can go to the parts store get one for less then $70 w/ a life time warenty but you are going to be using that warenty every 10-15k because they are poorley remanufactured. You could also go to the dealer and pay somewhere around $200 for one that will last well over 100k and not worry about it anymore. I usualy go the dealer route, but there are definitly advantages to the autoparts place way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 i've put over 50,000 miles on a clicking cv's. the stock axles do not fail. reman'ed axles suck (i've had brand new ones brake out of the box in less than 100 miles). I install used Subaru axles, remanned axles are not an option. use the search function and you'll see a number of people that have had relatively new axles from auto parts stores fail. (i'm one of them). but the stock axles almost never fail...even with the 20 year old EA and ER series vehicles. the offroad guys break them, but they do all sorts of extreme stuff and body lifts, angles on the joints. there is no need to replace the boot unless you really want to. eventually after 30,000-50,000 miles the axle will start clicking while driving straight (in my experience). this is when i start thinking about replacing them with a used Subaru axle. return the subaru parts. keep your eye out for a good used axle, someone will sell you one for $25 or so and they are much more reliable than the cheap-o remanne'd units from the auto parts stores. there are plenty of people that have used them and not had problems, but listen to all the people who have had problems, there is a statistical trend to take note of. "one experience is not conclusive". i'm pulling a 20 year old XT6 axle off a parts car next week to install on my daily driver with broken boots. if it starts clicking or you want to keep them lasting longer, pack grease in the broken boot by hand. it'll fling back out but helps some. if they start clicking, often squirting some grease in there will quiet them down instantly. but that's not worth it in my oppinion, i just drive them forever until i feel like replacing them or am going in for some other work like brakes, struts, or something. doing all that labor just for an axle change isn't worth it when i can wait and do it in conjuction with something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2X2KOB Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 So, is that pretty much a solid rule of thumb: don't change boots, change axle shafts instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 So, is that pretty much a solid rule of thumb: don't change boots, change axle shafts instead? It depends I guess on just how much you value your time and if you really need to scrimp every cent. I've changed 3 (IIRC) outer (Rzeppa) joints on Hondas and a Mitsubishi. At the time, I was working outdoors on a driveway after work/weekend with used tools from the pawnshop. Still had to pony up for a giant socket, borrow some tools, buy the joint (about $60 IIRC) the boot, rent a ball joint seperater.......bottom line, use your best judgment on how deep you wanna go - nowadays I'm in a position where it's easy to talk myself into letting other people fix my car but once I was a family man with 3 kids and one income and I even took a turn signal relay apart to recondition it instead of buying a new one. ymmv Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 It depends I guess on just how much you value your time and if you really need to scrimp every cent. I've changed 3 (IIRC) outer (Rzeppa) joints on Hondas and a Mitsubishi. At the time, I was working outdoors on a driveway after work/weekend with used tools from the pawnshop. Still had to pony up for a giant socket, borrow some tools, buy the joint (about $60 IIRC) the boot, rent a ball joint seperater.......bottom line, use your best judgment on how deep you wanna go - nowadays I'm in a position where it's easy to talk myself into letting other people fix my car but once I was a family man with 3 kids and one income and I even took a turn signal relay apart to recondition it instead of buying a new one. ymmv Carl I just had the Front inside (Fresh crack) and outside ( No cracks but old ) replaced on my Forester; it costs about $200.00 total, money well spent I Think. Good Luck with it! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 pulling the cv joints apart is dirty and messy. also takes time and the parts really don't save much. $50 for both sides. then you're kicking yourself if they start clicking soon after you do the job. for that cost you can buy a genuine used Subaru axle with good boots already on it. so it ends up being quicker and cheaper to replace with a used axle. axle replacement is not hard at all, 30 minutes to an hour (with the right tools). or buy new from Subaru if price doesn't matter. anyone know what they run? i haven't priced any newer EJ subaru axles recently. i think the newer EJ series cars are decently priced if i remember correctly. if you plan on doing alot of these...own alot of subaru's, or do driving that breaks alot of boots (lots of miles, off road) or like to learn then it's more beneficial to replace the boots. just don't buy remanne'd axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPX Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I've removed/replaced the axle on my Legacy before. And I just replaced one on my Cabriolet as well. Dirty work, but not complicated. Regardless of where you get the axle (new, rebuilt, used, etc), just change the whole axle:burnout: . It is SO NOT WORTH tearing apart the CV joints......unless you really want to learn how to do it at that level.:-\ As far as how long can you go on a blown boot.....depends. I drove the Cabriolet around for 3500 miles without any noise. But that's on clean roads. I drove the Legacy around for 4-5000 miles before replacing it. I don't recommend going too long because a hard-working outer CV makes a wheel bearing work harder. Mess up the wheel bearing and this simple repair turns into a more aggravating exercise with more cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 just don't buy remanne'd axles.Gary, a couple years back, knowledgeable people on USMB were fawning over these two places (both remans): http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html http://www.cvaxles.com/ This was gonna be my plan for axles when the time arrived, but it's all different now? (just trying to keep my contingency plans current.) **** ******! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Does anyone think the 'half-boot'/'split-boot' put on/glue on type boots would be of any value in a situation like this? I've never tried them but they look easy enough. I'd flush 'er clean and repack with Red Line CV-2 red moly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanski06 Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 yeah i've heard something about that split boot thing too....whats the deal with it?? any link? i guess i could always search it im going to see if i can take the parts back on monday....if they dont take them back for any dumb reason then i will be screwing around with my balljoint untill it lets go thanks for the different perspectives....i was hoping that this was get some attention...my car has over 198k miles....i guess when i install my rs suspension i'll just replace the half shaft instead of dealing with the mess and misery of taking apart the cv joint maybe i'll go to the junkyard on monday and take one apart if i think its pretty bearable....then i'll do it to my car, but if i start loosing ************ like ball bearings or little snap rings or w/e is in there....then i'll wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Does anyone think the 'half-boot'/'split-boot' put on/glue on type boots would be of any value in a situation like this? I've never tried them but they look easy enough. I'd flush 'er clean and repack with Red Line CV-2 red moly. It's been decades since I tried one - NFG. my $0.02 Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glmf Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 changing the half shaft really is pretty easy, just DON'T break the pinch bolt on the ball joint like I did. And if you do break it, DON'T try an easy out to get it out like I did. Seperate the ball joint with a splitter which will most likely ruin the boot. Its only about thirty bucks for Moog ball joint. Pull the whole steering knuckle out, put it in your vise and drill the broken bolt out, then thru bolt it, just like has already been done on the used part I bought,,,,,,,,,,really, the half shaft is an easy job. And one other thing, start hosing everything with penetrant, a good one like Kroil about two weeks to a month before you do the job. glmf out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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