carfreak85 Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I bought an 81 hatch that was fitted with a BYB lift kit. That car is on its way to subaru heaven right now and I am in the process of swapping the lift to an 85 hatch. Both EA81s. Now my problem is this: BYB's web site states that the kits are to bolt in and not require any cutting. For the rear upper shock mounts, this is not an option. The 81 has some metal surrounding the shock cut away. Also, the rubber pad between the torsion bar mount and the body is much thicker on the 85 than on the 81, and it doesn't appear to be age related either since the 85 has a higher mileage chassis than the 81. Has anyone else had these problems or could it just be because of an antique lift kit? All the blocks and spacers look to be in excellent condtion except for some minor surface rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSSLGECKO Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I don't have the answer, but I think that you meant to type '81' not '85' in your first sentence: "I bought an [81] hatch . . " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 Oops, just fixed that, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 You mean problems like this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61260 I had a problem the rear bushings on my hatch being thicker than my wagons. And as far as the shock mounts, i did away with them and got Gabriels. Autozone has them for $18 a piece, and i like having brand new shocks. These are from a '74 Chevelle and mount up, but are 3" longer than stock so it does away with the shock adapter. Let me know if you want a part number on the shocks. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 "The 81 has some metal surrounding the shock cut away" can you expound upon this?are you talking about the horseshoe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I think hes talking about the sunken section where the shock sits inside. Where the body is recessed. Makes it a pain in the rump roast to use the horseshoe adapter, reason why i went with the chevelle shocks. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 The metal surround that mounts to the body and sort of circles the shock. Notches have to be cut in them where the lower part of the strut extention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 You mean problems like this:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61260 I had a problem the rear bushings on my hatch being thicker than my wagons. And as far as the shock mounts, i did away with them and got Gabriels. Autozone has them for $18 a piece, and i like having brand new shocks. These are from a '74 Chevelle and mount up, but are 3" longer than stock so it does away with the shock adapter. Let me know if you want a part number on the shocks. -Brian Do they have any better brands than Gabriel for the 74 Chevelle ? I have gabriels now and I'm really not impressed with the everyday driving on them and my hatch is stock height as it stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Im sure they do. I just got them cause they were cheap. They are pretty soft and i like how it allows my hatch to flex alittle more. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Hatch's are the exception to a lot of rules. Being they are shorter, a lot of rear end stuff is different. It very well may require cutting. Longer shocks are definately the better option. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Hatches, Brats, and Wagons are all different in the rear when it comes to shock mounts. Even if they use the same shock. No cutting is required. The BFH is your best tool. Just beat them back until the bottom of the "U" fits. That is the better option. I'll stand by my belief that the stock shock's travel is best suited for these little cars. Longer travel shocks are when you start busting stuff more. ie: axles and stubs (or you're not wheeling it that hard) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 I sent PK an email to see what he says on the subject, but who knows when I'll get a response. I'm still torn between the longer shock and beating the body. Zap, do the stock shocks actually limit the travel of the rear suspension? Why else do you run the stock rears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I sent PK an email to see what he says on the subject, but who knows when I'll get a response. I'm still torn between the longer shock and beating the body. Zap, do the stock shocks actually limit the travel of the rear suspension? Why else do you run the stock rears? The stock shocks do not limit the travel - it's limited by the bump stops on a stock setup. The shocks can actually be damaged internally if you compress them hard till they bottom out. Since with the PK setup you are lowering the diff as well, the axle angles are still stock, and slightly positive at normal level driving. This means that you will be able to compress more as with a stock height soob they never get compressed much beyond level due to the bumpo stops. With the addition of some EA82 DOJ cups they can stretch quiet a bit more, and you can go negative on the compression without harming them - it's the same as extending downward as far as forces on the axles is concerned. Best combination would be the longer travel shocks, and lower the bump stops to limit your compression to a safe amount. Also adding some limiting straps to limit the down travel would prevent over-extending the axles in either direction. Again - EA82 DOJ's will help tremendously with the maximum operating angle - just remember they aren't any thicker, so you are at a greater risk of damage the larger you make the max angles. Speed is also a consideration - a lead foot will break axles when they are at higher angles. The larger the angle, the more torque the shaft has when it changes speed abruptly (such as a high speed wheel spin into a rock). Think of it as a wrench handle - the longer the wrench, the bigger the bolt you will be able to use it on, or in this case twist in half. As the angle grows, the lever arm effect becomes more pronounced, and will overcome the strength of the DOJ cup at high torque. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Theoretically, (like GD said) you should be able to compress the shock and axle angle the same as the angle if fully extended, hanging the axle in the air. The rear torsion should help stop extended travel as well as the shock. Bump stops could be added (2" would be fine) to limit compression travel, but I dont think that angle is ever more than the extended angle with the BYB kit keeping static neutral. My shock research concurrs with Brian AND the fitment for 1995 Buick Roadmaster is similar but with more travel availalble. *** double check before buying. I have a set for my Brat, but they're not installed yet - lift kit on floor in garage. New EA81 kits have shocks not horseshoes,... seems a better solution. r/ PK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 I have also heard that the shocks off of a 97-01 TJ Wrangler with the 2.5" Rancho shocks will work with some minor modification. Part # RS5241. It is kinda spendy, but they are apparently a better fit than some of the other options. Anyone else tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I have also heard that the shocks off of a 97-01 TJ Wrangler with the 2.5" Rancho shocks will work with some minor modification. Part # RS5241. It is kinda spendy, but they are apparently a better fit than some of the other options. Anyone else tried this? I have 'em on mine, but that's with a 3" body lift and the torsion bar clocked a notch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 How close are they to bolting in? Are they worth the extra cost over standard Monroes for a chevelle and where is the best price you can find? How is the ride considering they are for a jeep? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 How close are they to bolting in? Are they worth the extra cost over standard Monroes for a chevelle and where is the best price you can find? How is the ride considering they are for a jeep? the ride is stiff because I have the torsion bar clocked. I think when I spec'd them out, it was taking into account the 5" of lift achieved with the blocks/torsion bar... I don't remember the specs any more.... I think it's the same amount of mods as the chevelle shocks. I got my Ranchos at a local off-road store, but they still had to order them.... don't even remember what they cost.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 I ended up getting the Ranchos at Schucks for $48 a peice!!! They get here on Friday, so we'll see how they fit then. Full speed ahead on the front end until I get the shocks and bolts for the torsion bar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=MON&mfrpartnumber=55802&parttype=50&ptset=A...... go to "see all vehicles this product fits" just a comparison.the shocks PK is talking about are the same shocks that folks have been talking about for the chevelle and several others. and the 5241's by rancho are a good bet. i did not like the ride due to carrying alot of work related heavy stuff(500 pounds approx).i only took them offroad once and was satisfied.but like i said,only once.i have had edelbrock shocks for a lifted jeep,rancho's for a lifted jeep,rancho's for a lifted chevy truck(way to long)monroes for a sube,kyb for a sube and gabrielle's for a sube.by far the monroes and kyb's rocked it for what i need as far as work was concerned.the rancho's had a damn nice ride when i was unloaded.i think they are worth it.but once again i only got to take them offroad once......the biggest thing about the rancho's is that they are a push and pull type of action.which makes the dampening really sweet.the edelbrocks were gone in a few weeks just from jobsites,and roads to jobsites.that was a waste of time and money.the acton without the horseshoe is definitely worth a shot.it is a tad different for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 WOOOHOOOOO!! Just picked up the ranchos! :banana: Wont have time to fiddle with them until later this weekend, but another little niggling problem has arisen. How the hell do I get the shock bellows over the top mount of the shock? Do I even need to run them or can I leave them off? I'd like to get them on if at all possible, but if you guys reassure me then I'll just throw them on and forget about it. *EDIT* Finally got them on with a little soapy water and a lot of patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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