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After doing a head gasket replacement and getting my 91 Loyale running, I wanted to set my timing to 20* BTDC. However, when I plug the green connectors together, it kills the engine and it won't start until the connectors are separated. I searched and found one other post where someone had the same problem, and the solution offered was "adjust the timing with the connectors disconnected." I'm also showing error codes 23 & 24 (air flow meter and air control valve, respectively), so I'd really like to run D-check, but I can't with this existing problem. Does anyone have any ideas about what's going on here and how I can fix it? Thanks!

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After doing a head gasket replacement and getting my 91 Loyale running, I wanted to set my timing to 20* BTDC. However, when I plug the green connectors together, it kills the engine and it won't start until the connectors are separated. I searched and found one other post where someone had the same problem, and the solution offered was "adjust the timing with the connectors disconnected." I'm also showing error codes 23 & 24 (air flow meter and air control valve, respectively), so I'd really like to run D-check, but I can't with this existing problem. Does anyone have any ideas about what's going on here and how I can fix it? Thanks!

 

er um, exactly how are you setting the timing since there is no distrubutor to set? Th ECU selects the timing.

Also 23 and 24 can be related. How well does the car run. Check for a loose hose or vacume line.

 

nipper

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Now I'm really confused. There IS a distributor, and the timing changes as the distributor is turned. The reason I need to connect the green connectors is to lock out the ECU-controlled advance while I set initial timing.

 

er um, exactly how are you setting the timing since there is no distrubutor to set? Th ECU selects the timing.

Also 23 and 24 can be related. How well does the car run. Check for a loose hose or vacume line.

 

nipper

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Now I'm really confused. There IS a distributor, and the timing changes as the distributor is turned. The reason I need to connect the green connectors is to lock out the ECU-controlled advance while I set initial timing.

 

ok then i dont have a clue. i thought by 1991 everything lost its distrubutors.

 

nipper

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Umm, nope. Not the Loyales.

Very strange problem.

 

Have you tried playing with the timing to get around this problem. Maybe the initial timing is already far off?

 

ANother method, have a vacum gauge?

 

nipper

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ok then i dont have a clue. i thought by 1991 everything lost its distrubutors.

 

nipper

 

in the legacys yes, the loyales had them till the end in 94

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are you plugging them in while its running? You need to plug them together before you start it. Then mess with the disty. Another thing you can do is disconnect the battery for 2 minutes to reset the ECU, hook the battery back up and connect the green connectors. After that, start the car. If your car still doesn't want to start and you're getting the MAF code again, disconnect it and the car should kick itself into a "LIMP" mode. Car will run but won't run very good. This is also a method to test the MAF sensor.

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er um, exactly how are you setting the timing since there is no distrubutor to set? Th ECU selects the timing.

Also 23 and 24 can be related. How well does the car run. Check for a loose hose or vacume line.

 

nipper

 

 

Elite subaru master eh? uhhh then you would know that Loyales DO have distributors as did all EA series engines. I wouldn't have called you on it if it said "subie newbie" as a title, but elite master....?

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Maybe the MAF is bad. I tried plugging the greens together and then starting the car, but no luck - it dies almost immediately. I also ran it with the MAF harness plugged in and unplugged and it seemed to idle about the same either way (thus my belief that the MAF may be shot). What's weird is that the MAF was replaced in August just before I bought the car and it hasn't been run much since then (due to the head gasket issue). Also, nothing seems to clear the code (disconnected battery, green and white connectors all plugged in, etc.). Maybe the MAF is still under warranty? - I got the receipt with the car!!

 

 

are you plugging them in while its running? You need to plug them together before you start it. Then mess with the disty. Another thing you can do is disconnect the battery for 2 minutes to reset the ECU, hook the battery back up and connect the green connectors. After that, start the car. If your car still doesn't want to start and you're getting the MAF code again, disconnect it and the car should kick itself into a "LIMP" mode. Car will run but won't run very good. This is also a method to test the MAF sensor.

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Elite subaru master eh? uhhh then you would know that Loyales DO have distributors as did all EA series engines. I wouldn't have called you on it if it said "subie newbie" as a title, but elite master....?

 

Tell you what, when dnever make a mistake, is the day you can call me out on things. This may come as a shock to you, but i dont know much about 360's either... plus i didnt pu the lable there, the site does afte X number of threads. At least i admited that i didnt know when they switched over, and learn from them...

*adds Gloyale to Santas gets lump of coal list*

 

nipper

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Fix your codes before you try to set the timing. You could have an intermittant wireing connection at the manifold harness connectors or something. Without the IAC, it won't run in test mode. It *may* run when not in test mode, but not well. The computer is telling you what to do - follow it's lead.

 

GD

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Perhaps the wiring between the MAF and ECU isn't continuous. At least it's worth a try. I'm sure that it'd be cheaper to rewire than get a new MAF, unless it is under waranty. Then maybe you could get them to check the wiring to make sure that it actually works this time.

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Tell you what, when dnever make a mistake, is the day you can call me out on things. This may come as a shock to you, but i dont know much about 360's either... plus i didnt pu the lable there, the site does afte X number of threads. At least i admited that i didnt know when they switched over, and learn from them...

*adds Gloyale to Santas gets lump of coal list*

 

nipper

hahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahaha.... DUHH! Theres more than one here with the Elite blahblahblahblahru thingy....

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well i would think if the timings too far off, then setting it to defualt timing w/o the ECU would make it die, you know? like its way to far retarded, and the computer tries to compensate with advancing the timing to keep it running. Also if your getting MAF codes check all the wiring for breaks and what not

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Tell you what, when dnever make a mistake, is the day you can call me out on things. This may come as a shock to you, but i dont know much about 360's either... plus i didnt pu the lable there, the site does afte X number of threads. At least i admited that i didnt know when they switched over, and learn from them...

*adds Gloyale to Santas gets lump of coal list*

 

nipper

 

Hey I'm not on here to insult people, and I make mistakes too. I don't think I read your addmission about the disty till after I posted. I also didn't know the site picks the title so I apologize. But seriously, If you don't know the old cars don't post about them please it could be ttroublesome for others. There are plenty of threads about the newer models. and your too late, Santa hooked me up. :)

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agree with GD - fix codes then proceed.

 

but i dont know much about 360's either
wow, that's awesome!
If you don't know the old cars don't post about them please it could be ttroublesome for others
that sounds nice, but that's too idealistic, to expect only people that know XT's, or EA, or EJ, or Legacy to post to a thread....alot of things cross over and the experience/info is applicable. nipper contributes daily here and helps numerous people every day. being perfect is not the goal, helping is and nipper does that dozens of times a day.

 

and yes there were a number of models with non-EJ engines in 91.

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