WOW! Thats weird! i'm getting code 11 & 12 on my turbo wagon too!:eh:

this is soooo messed up! so there is a bad ground some where and something is wrong with the ignition. Has anyone delt with this before?

There is a bad ground!? I thought it meant like ignition pulse and starter switch...

I think codes 11 and 12 are fairly normal if you have the connectors plugged together and the engine not running, but the ignition switch in the on position. Does the car run alright for the first minute or so from cold startup, and then play up after it has warmed up slightly. If so, I'd check the O2 sensor. Had similar with my EA82T. Would run perfectly for about 1 minute after cold start, then cough splutter and carry on after that. Turned out the 02 sensor wasn't totally dead, but was giving incorrect readings stuffing everything up, but not bad enough to trigger the ECS light. In my case simply unplugging the 02 sensor made it run heaps better so it was easy to work out what it was. Other than that I'd be having a close look at the engine Temp sensor.

the comment about the plug causing the codes is interesting, but seems to make sense because Matt and I are getting the same codes! How much is an O2 sensor anyway? Im gonna go unplug min right now!

My O2 sensor cost me 27$ i think, and I can't get the old one out. Do I have to take off the whole exhaust to get it out? Its really stuck in there. I hope i'm not trying to pull the wrong thing!:cornfuzz:

Hey guys, I saw this thead and just wanted to give my 2 cents. a bad oxygen sensor will not keep a vehicle from idling, you could actually unplug the O2 sensor, and it will run... when the O2 sensor goes out you mainly notice a loss of power on acceleration and at higher speeds (aka surging on the freeway). Since it starts up fine cold, and then dies after its warm, then its definetly related to the computer running open loop. My advice is to checkout perhaps the knock sensor, or the Mass air flow sensor. the sensor probably isnt giving a worth didily reading unless you open the throttle body to move the vane back far enough to where it gives SOME kind of reading again. on the other hand if the knock sensor is messed up, that can also cause it to starve itself of fuel.

 

Its highly unlikely that an o2 sensor or a water temp sensor will cause the engine to stop running all together.

Skip suggested to me that the dash pot is out of adjustment. that might explain why it dies when im coasting to a stop. but that doesnt explain why it doesnt like to restart when its hot. after looking at my trouble shooting trees in my FSMs, I think that if the wiring related to the trouble codes im getting isnt bad, then I think the ECU is poopy, but if that were the case, it wouldn't run, so I think its the wiring.

Galen, your email said nothing about not starting after it dies.

Tuff troubleshooting with half the info -

homework needed

When you have the car in a no start situation

pop the hood and use a helper or a remote start switch and check the spark with the coil wire, it should be blue white and atleast a half inch long.

This will atleast be a start as to what is giving you problems.

 

Coil or spark generating circuits

or

fuel delivery

I didnt remember this until after I tested the O2 sensor. We do get spart an the disty when its running, if that helps. I think it is an issue with the ignition system that is the problem since im not getting any fuel codes.

Another thing to check that I don't think has been mentioned here is to look (listen?) for any vacuum leaks. If air is being drawn in that the computer doesn't know about then you can get the weird behaviour such as stalling out etc.

well the trouble shooting trees in the FSM tell me that I need a new computer. But the codes im getting say ignition problem. i have a old MSD coil on the car, do you think it is toast and not giving a good spark? the engine also gives a noise like a knocking rod that gets quieter as the car warms up and drops idle. it is LOUD when you first hit the gas then mellows out at higher RPM. My Dad says he has little experince with knocking rods but after using the automotive stethiscope, he is pretty sure it sint a knocking rod because there is no noise at the crank but it is loud on the intake manifold and at the back of the block/ bellhousing. Is this a knocking rod? I had to drop the oil pan and put a new one on, so the pan was off for a while, could this lack of oil in the engine caused a knocking rod at startup? didnt used to make this noise.

Theres a whole slew of things to address..I will only advise on the ones I know.

 

1. Car dying when warm and not restarting. These are classic symptoms of a bad coil or ignition amplifier.

2. Knocking. without more info, its hard to tell. Maybe one of the more experienced local guys can give it a listen for you.. But check the obvious external things like the water pump(they can make some funky noises when they're on the way out.) Also, if there is a knock, it will play hell with your knock sensor and the readings it is sending.

I had one of mine when warmed up would quit and not start. It turned out to the fuel pressure regulator. This is not a cheap item from the dealer either over $700.00. I took one off of my other car before I got a used one to make sure it was the problem. Don't know it this is your problem but it is a possibility. I was lucky to find one in a wrecking yard for mine for $45.

cjt

Originally posted by whippet

I had one of mine when warmed up would quit and not start. It turned out to the fuel pressure regulator. This is not a cheap item from the dealer either over $700.00. I took one off of my other car before I got a used one to make sure it was the problem. Don't know it this is your problem but it is a possibility. I was lucky to find one in a wrecking yard for mine for $45.

cjt

 

$700? for what car? they arent that much for our old soobies.. at least not around here

This was for an EA81T engine from the Subaru dealer. 83 turbo wagon. The parts person when looking up the part and finding the price was totally shocked. I also checked more than one dealer. The part comes with the lines going to each injector so it looks like a spider.

 

cjt

If you havent done it yet, I suggest checking the timing. It could be the cause of the knocking and other problems also.

Skip, you are partially right about the connectors. The "check connector" is black, but the "test mode connector" is green.

Rob

where would the black connector be for the ignition timing?

I think he may be refering to the connectors for the ECU. So it would be under the dash on the drivers side.

 

--GoatBoy--