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light rack?

Featured Replies

just wondering if anyone has any experience with putting lights on their rig. pictures or suggestion would be awesome... heres what i've got so far in photoshop

 

added lights + tint

lightrackandtint.jpg

Looks good.

I know lots of people will put the basket style roof racks on and just bolt the lights on there.

 

Myself, I just drilled holes in the roof and put a couple KC daylighter style lights right on. With lots of silicone for leaks.

I seem to have very little vibration on trails at night. even though they are just mounted to the sheetmetal.

I plan on mounting them to a rack when I get one though and plugging the holes. Pretty sure there's a pic in my gallery. :)

how bout some squares under mounted on the top rail of your bumper... just a thought. i'm putting two 100w rounds on my 2x3 bumper right now. but i wasnt thinking when i built it and the lights have to stick out front of it because of lack of clearance to the hood.. grr. sorry no pics... yet.

Here's mine when I first got it, it was for a fullsize Bronco, I cut 10 inches off it I think, I bolted it to the roof and I sealed everything eith silicone, no leaks so far

TheBeast-TheBegining.jpg

if your going to bother with a light bar make sure the lights are well protected. I wouldn't suggest one, it leaves the lights vulnerable to branches and a small amounts of light in the car can be bothersome also. just mount them protected behind a grill guard.

  • Author

i was looking up that light stuff again and saw that once you hit like 6 or so 100 watt lights you run into problems with killing alternators and stuff. have any of you guys ran into that kind of stuff?

 

oh yeah that bar looks sick "The Beast I Drive"

just make sure you don't mount them too far forward so you don't get glare on the windsheild. here's the setup I had on my blue wagon (tabs welded onto the ends of my Yakima crossbars):

3242PICT1180.JPG

 

sweet picture, but the lights are too far forward, notice how they light up the windshield. which means that the light will reflect off any dirt thats on the glass, and cause a glare.

 

daylight pic of those:

3242PICT1033.JPG

 

and yes, I did break these off on the trail once :-\

 

 

much simpler method. the PO of the black wagon that I had just drilled 2 holes in the Thule roof rack bars (square):

100_0676.jpg

lightrackandtint.jpg

 

Thats a nice looking rack, but if I had a suggestion, I would say to reverse the slant on the guard piece in front of the lights.

 

It looks hot.... but I can just SEE that thing with about 20 LBS of leaves and branches wadded in there against the roof after a healthy fire trail run. :grin:

 

My .02

your title says "rack so I guess this doesn't count?

 

The aux (2 Hella, 2 KC)all have 100 w lamps wired

via relays to come on with the high beams. (road car sorry)

 

I have an XT6 alt, and have rewired the old below bumper

turnsignals to the corner lights beside the factory

head lights (Osram ultrvisions)

withpugs4.JPG

 

Here is one of my Brats that can play off road

'Yota" truck bar by Jackman (I believe) modified

to fit with a blue tip hotwrench

nufront.JPG

  • Author
your title says "rack so I guess this doesn't count?

 

The aux (2 Hella, 2 KC)all have 100 w lamps wired

via relays to come on with the high beams. (road car sorry)

 

I have an XT6 alt, and have rewired the old below bumper

turnsignals to the corner lights beside the factory

head lights (Osram ultrvisions)

thats a sick setup.

what do you think is better, 2 normal 60amp alternators or a single xt6 90amp one?

Howdy David, thanks for the compl.

 

I've never seen a duel alt setup, sounds kewl.

 

I have never had any problems with the XT6 alt.

(about a year and a half)

 

I was eating alts to the tune of one every 6 mo.

before the swap.

here are a couple "on the bench" in my shop

altbench.JPG

 

Please note:

There is a swap to a high amp GM alt.

Some like it better

as the GM alt is an easy find.

  • Author

for the duel setup i've always thought i could rig up another one in place of my a/c that i don't even use anymore. it seems like it'd be cheaper than an xt6 alt when remanufactured 60amp ones go for like $50 each on ebay.

Mine is similar to most people's rack setup. A couple of cheap crossbars, with an XT spare tire rack mounted between them to hold my spare tire. 60 watt yellows up top, 100 watt white's on the bumper.

My experience with alts is killing a couple original 60 amp ones. Swapped to a 100 amp GM alt, ended up killing that also, needed to get a smaller pulley on it as it was worse than then stock for me at idle. Then I swapped to a dual battery setup and haven't had an issue.

lslights.jpg

nice shot Andy!!

"Spelunkers do it deeper"

 

I know most of these are for "Off Road"

 

But here in PA,

lights on the roof

must be run with the covers on when

driven on the highway.

 

Is this a wive's tale?

and/or do other states have this rule?

  • Author

Please note:

There is a swap to a high amp GM alt.

Some like it better

as the GM alt is an easy find.

that gm one seems like the way to go thanks for informing me

http://random.fjeer.us/altswap.html

 

****Edit**** Thanks monstaru for the link

my pleasure David,

glad you found it

 

good link,

it is by the gentleman who started the thread

MonstaRu linked to in post #18

 

 

"mo powr' to ya"

 

 

The duel bat setup looks kewl also.

One would no doubt need an isolater like

motorhomes use.

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