mykingcrab Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I am ready SAt/SUN to do my lift on my ea82, I have had a lifted ea81 brat(several years ago from 1990-2004), and l am semi familliar with whats involved,and the differances between the models. I chose a different combination of parts. here is the formula. front: (1) 4"AA strut towers (from DRCRAZY) (2) 3" x2" engine crossmember (2x2 tubing to link all trans blocks) (3) 2" x2 trans crossmember (2x2 tubing linked to all pieces) (all are STEEL blocks linked as a subframe) no more ripped out bolts!!!!!! rear: (1) 4" SJR aluminum shock brackets (2) 3" SJR aluminum diff drop (3) 2" SJR aluminum front diff mount spacer. I have brand new struts all around, new TSL's on flat spoke pug 15's. I have decent and comlete tools, including full airtools/ jackstands jacks welding/all necessary metal tools. strut spring compressor ect. (A)will I need to legthen any wires,hoses? (B)on the steering, is it 3" on the shaft extention if its 3" on the blocks? © will l have to legnthen my anti pich Can you think of anything else I will need? wd40/paint/hand cleaner/anti seize ect. and alot of grade 8 self locking hardware. I have all ready to go.. I was going to do this with COBCOB,and maybe MELLOW YELLOW (if he wanted to), but its Icy and crappy again,so I will probably go indoors in a large shop, and wont total his garage out. hopefully they will come over. All input is helpfull, and welcome,.................................................................. and will be documenting/posting in detail. THANK YOU ALL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I chose a different combination of parts. here is the formula. front: (1) 4"AA strut towers (from DRCRAZY) (2) 3" x2" engine crossmember (2x2 tubing to link all trans blocks) (3) 2" x2 trans crossmember (2x2 tubing linked to all pieces) (all are STEEL blocks linked as a subframe) no more ripped out bolts!!!!!! rear: (1) 4" SJR aluminum shock brackets (2) 3" SJR aluminum diff drop (3) 2" SJR aluminum front diff mount spacer. Please please please picture of the front subframe. I've thought of doing that, but I'd love to see some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 (A)will I need to legthen any wires,hoses? Yes top radiator Hose, No on the break lines, just rework them (B)on the steering, is it 3" on the shaft extention if its 3" on the blocks? No will have to measure after install © will l have to legnthen my anti pich Yes Can you think of anything else I will need? wd40/paint/hand cleaner/anti seize ect. and alot of grade 8 self locking hardware. I have all ready to go.. do not use a stainless nut on a stainless bolt will gual up ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Some form of corrosion reducing lubricant like PB Blaster, or Yield to help break loose the bolts and nuts apart will greatly reduce the frustration. WD40 just won't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 :cool: Man you make it soooo easy scott. 10/4 on NO stainless. All coments welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Please please please picture of the front subframe. I've thought of doing that, but I'd love to see some pics. its not mine but good info.: http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday2.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 A) Your rad will be displaced 3" check your hoses, check your heater hoses for extra hose, coil wire will be too short, re-route your speedo cable before, you will need some material to deal with your shifter, the rest should be sorta ok @3". (your mechanical rad fan will move 3") Brake lines will have to be "fooled" with, all metric, ensure a supply. No idea, @6" the steering extension here was 5 1/2" (any extra here that you buy will go to the shifter). C)yes, guessing 2" (I *think* mine was 4") I dropped my entire sub frame in the back, so as to connect the front, and rear blocks. I used 2 wheel drive rear shocks (struts), picking up an inch there, instead of the way you are doing that. You may have to space down the hanger bearing (I had to), it's not critical, eyeball it before, and after, then decide. I'm up on 215/85 16" tires (bottom of the door is 29" off of the ground) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CR86GL Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I just got done lifting my 86 wagon with a 4" AA lift. I would suggest the SJR front strut blocks as the AA ones have a noticable camber to them. Also I am not sure where you got the steering extension, but mine was way too long and I had to have it cut and rewelded. Some guys suggested it might be because my car dose not have power steering. Other than that it all went real smooth and it sounds like the guys have covered everything else to be aware of. Happy lifting!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I just got done lifting my 86 wagon with a 4" AA lift. I would suggest the SJR front strut blocks as the AA ones have a noticable camber to them. Also I am not sure where you got the steering extension, but mine was way too long and I had to have it cut and rewelded. Some guys suggested it might be because my car dose not have power steering. Other than that it all went real smooth and it sounds like the guys have covered everything else to be aware of. Happy lifting!!! Thats exactly why DRCRAZY got rid of them .hE HAD HIS ADJUSTED ALL THE WAY UP TO CLEAR HIS LARGER TIRES. mine are new loyale replacements w/no adjustment. i can correct it,if need be? and will definatly look into it. lf im correct the formula is: 7mm of offset per 1 inch. who can tell me if its (+)poss/or (-)neg. l think its negative orinward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I reckon it'll never work, you'd better just give the whole shebang to me (car and all) and walk away:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Cut the steering knuckle in half, slide each one into position and measure bewtween the two. I have an aftermarket dual core radiator. Its lower hose is in a different possition. It had to be changed on mine. Pull your o2 sensor wire free from the firewall so you dont pull on that. I had to "rework" my 4wd shifter, to get it into 2wd. If you just slide it up into 4wd before you start. You can just come back to it when your done. Scott pretty much has ya covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 I reckon it'll never work, you'd better just give the whole shebang to me (car and all) and walk away:grin: We will discuss that in group theropy. Euro XT 14"s are going to look hot on the RED DRAGON WAGON. they're coming off,come get'em, like we talked about:burnout: they still have tread:cool: "nothing up my sleve,Presto" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 Cut the steering knuckle in half, slide each one into position and measure bewtween the two. I have an aftermarket dual core radiator. Its lower hose is in a different possition. It had to be changed on mine. Pull your o2 sensor wire free from the firewall so you dont pull on that. I had to "rework" my 4wd shifter, to get it into 2wd. If you just slide it up into 4wd before you start. You can just come back to it when your done. Scott pretty much has ya covered. Great info, everyone!!!!! we all can agree that knowlege is priceless. anyone else, feel free to help.:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 you forgot beer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 you forgot beer. :eek: Good Lord you're right!! :eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 you forgot beer.NECESSITO LA CERVESA:drunk: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Cut the steering knuckle in half, slide each one into position and measure bewtween the two. Legacy steering knuckle is like a 1" extended GL(ea82) knuckle. Outback is like a 3" extended. Might just get lucky and be able to use the outback one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 We will discuss that in group theropy. Euro XT 14"s are going to look hot on the RED DRAGON WAGON. they're coming off,come get'em, like we talked about:burnout: they still have tread:cool: ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 ?? ok,your scaring me............ stop it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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