The Scooby Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 true, i just can't wait to figure out the stalling problem, the fuel pump keeps its 12V while cranking and running, but stalls anyways. thinking its something to do with the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 well you're doing better then I am! I still have a lot of work to do before I get mine to run. That and I still got to pull a diff for you. Anyways, hope you get it running great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 thanks russ, hey if you wouldn't mind and have some time when you bring by the diff if i havn't for it running yet would you mind giving me a hand. i can put anything together, pull a EJ engine in under 15 minutes, but when it comes to wiring im still learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 thanks russ, hey if you wouldn't mind and have some time when you bring by the diff if i havn't for it running yet would you mind giving me a hand. i can put anything together, pull a EJ engine in under 15 minutes, but when it comes to wiring im still learning. I can see what I can do but the whole two jobs thing kinda kills my spare time:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 vacuum leak? have everything hooked up? IAC, PCV lines, etc. that's my next instinct, with it thinking that it's cranking all the time, it'll either stay in "choke" mode (extra fuel) or go into limp mode. either way, not depending on the MAF signal almost at all. I don't think you created a new problem....just took the band-aid off the old one. might even help to just clean the MAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 ive never disconnected anything, i pulled the intake complete with the wiring and all, car ran before i got it. no CEL's to speek of now, but it will crank and start right up like its soposed to. rev to 1500, climb to 2Krpms like its trying to warm up then die. also if i try to give it any kind of throttle it stalls instantly. also ive got every wire hooked up except the VSS and the oil light. the 12V is hooked to the black wire, start is hooked to the black with a white stripe if i remember right (car is at work, im at home). when i swapped the start wire from 12V switched to just the start signal it will do what its doing now. when the start wire saw 12V while cranking and running it would stay running as long as the key was on, but would do the searching idle. also one thing i noticed, once you start it, then it stalls you hear it go into check mode, the fan kicks on and off. did you leave the DIAG connector in place? i dont see the single black connector with one wire, only the single wire green which was connected together when i got the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 yea, both pairs of diagnostic connectors are there. I do connect them (to keep track of them) while working on the harness, I don't know if I left them that way. still sounds like a vacuum leak....sounds EXACTLY like what happened with the 96 EJ22 in the 86 wagon last summer when I didn't have the IAC connected to the intake tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 ok well ive swapped the ECU's and still nothing, it wont keep running. so i put the ECU that went with the intake and wiring and the fuel pump stays on as soon as the key is in the on position, it doesn't just prime but stays on until i turn off the key. try to start the engine and nothing. so i put another ECU in it, pump will prime, start car and it doesn't sound like the pump stays on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 yea, the one ECU is bad. codes? did you look for the diagnostic connectors and be sure they're unplugged? and, for the umpteenth time....did you double/triple checked ALL air lines between the block and the MAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 yes ive checked for vacuum leaks, with everything from re-torquing all the bolts, and checking the clamps to spraying the engine with starting fluid to see if it revs. nothing. so also i checked and the ECU is not sending the signal to the fuel pump. it has 12V at the thick yellow wire at the relay. but gets nothing to the smaller yellow and silver dot or the green w/black stripe. and the black with red stripe also never sends power to the pump. i had wired it wrong and it was just going off the stock EA wiring and sender. so for some reason the EJ harness is not telling the relay anything so i need to trace that down tomorrow or monday. i also checked all the wires for the ignition switch and made sure i have that hooked up right. so its not like the harness is loosing power. then the last things if i can figure this out, i still have to hook up the oil light, and VSS. but still need to figure out where i hook up the wire for the VSS signal off the stock EA cluster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 both yellow wires at the fuel relay should get 12v when the ign is on. green wire gets a ground from the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 and its not, only the large yellow wire gets 12V, not the small one at any time whether its key on engine off, or cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 that is, extremely strange. I don't know how it could have run at all that way. well, they should be on the same circuit, so hook them both together. also, that smaller yellow wire also goes to the ECU (pin b12, FWIW), so don't just cut it off and hook up the relay side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 ya tell me about it, so what, you think just tap the small yellow wire to the large yellow before the relay? i think it ran before because the factory EA wiring was telling the pump to stay on and not the EJ wiring. if you have a diagram i can see on how i can change the routing of the smaller yellow that would be great. if this doesn't work im gonna have to pull the harness and ohm out every wire, or im going to have to build one myself since something is not right in the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 And you all berate carbs so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Scoob. Does the engine actually start, or just crank. When I replaced my EJ22 in my 94 Alpine wagon, it wouldn't start. Turns out the wire connectors to the magnetic sensors on the cam and crank were reversed (cam sensor needed to be on the bottom plug on the tree, crank in the middle plug). I guess they switched them on different model years. After a little cutting and splicing, the engine started right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) Scoob. Does the engine actually start, or just crank. When I replaced my EJ22 in my 94 Alpine wagon, it wouldn't start. Turns out the wire connectors to the magnetic sensors on the cam and crank were reversed (cam sensor needed to be on the bottom plug on the tree, crank in the middle plug). I guess they switched them on different model years. After a little cutting and splicing, the engine started right up. ya it will run, if i swap the start signal for the EJ ECU so it gets 12V switched it will start and run but have a searching idle. for soem reason the EJ ECU is not telling the SPFI pump to stay on. Edited February 15, 2009 by Zap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 When the ECU gets ignition power it should prime the system with about a second of pump run. Then when the starter motor is going it pumps, when its running it pumps, but if it stalls the pump stops. So the pump has to be run by the ECU using a sensor that knows when the engine is rotating. Maybe either the crank or cam sensor does this and either or both have failed, or not wired correctly? Or maybe the ECU gets its signal that it also uses to power the pump from a different sensor that has failed? I'm not much use but maybe something to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 When the ECU gets ignition power it should prime the system with about a second of pump run. Then when the starter motor is going it pumps, when its running it pumps, but if it stalls the pump stops. So the pump has to be run by the ECU using a sensor that knows when the engine is rotating. Maybe either the crank or cam sensor does this and either or both have failed, or not wired correctly? Or maybe the ECU gets its signal that it also uses to power the pump from a different sensor that has failed? I'm not much use but maybe something to check? any little thing helps right now, ill have to think about that one. its my weekend right now, sunday/monday, and the car is at my work, so on tuesday im having SuberDave come by to take a peek to see if he can find something quick. but before that ill be working on it when we are slow at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 any little thing helps right now, ill have to think about that one. its my weekend right now, sunday/monday, and the car is at my work, so on tuesday im having SuberDave come by to take a peek to see if he can find something quick. but before that ill be working on it when we are slow at work. I wish I was slow enough at work to work on my car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2K4 STI Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Does the EJ22 have a Fuel Pump Controller? I read another board where a member swapped an EJ20T in his RS and had a Bad Fuel Pump controller with similar symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) Does the EJ22 have a Fuel Pump Controller? I read another board where a member swapped an EJ20T in his RS and had a Bad Fuel Pump controller with similar symptoms nope, that's a newer thing. I attached a little diagram of the fuel pump relay. on the left is how it is stock. the yellow wires are separated for awhile, but should both be on the same circuit eventually. on the right is what you should do. tie them together (a yellow heat-shrink butt splice would be best, only costs a couple bux from wal-mart, home depot, napa, etc.) so that both ends of the smaller wire get power. Edited February 16, 2009 by Numbchux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 ya russ i am very lucky to have such a awesome boss, who also let me lay a over 50foot burnout in his 68 pontiac firebird 400. thanks matt thats what i thought i would do, ill have to try that tomorrow. today im finishing painting my new room at my new house im renting, cleaning the yard up (looks like a jungle) cleaning out the 2 car garage, and laying new carpet. later this week/next weekend i have to put in the new washer/dryer, new stovetop, prep and treat the garage floor with a Floorcoat. then move in and hope to get a 2post car hoist installed in the comming months in the garage as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 well when i tapped the 2 wires together the pump stays on constantly. the large yellow has a constant 12V and even with the pump on constant the engine will not stay running. so in short with the pump on constant 12V the engine sputters and stalls like it has been doing. so there is still something else wrong. matt again if you can please call me i would appreciate it, if i don't hear from you ill give you a call tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 yesterday i went through and traced all the power and ground wires i can find in the harness and everything seems fine. so i pulled out the harness and even got anotehr known good ECU and plugged that in so i have a fresh starting point again. getting 3 codes: 11 - Crank angle sensor/circuit 12 - start signal/circuit 35 - canister purge so ill just leave it alone today until Dave can get there and take a peek and hopfully figure it out. but i did finish wiring up my Hella's finally, as well as got a new decal for the brush gaurd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.