Hi im here looking for help. i am in an intro to power mechanics class and im rebuilding a subaru engine the only identifying number i could find was EA71.

 

im looking for any kind of information possible about this motor. i dont know what year or model it came out of. i figure if i can read up on it as much as possible than i can dissassemble and rebuild it efficiantly. for the assignment it is not required to run when its reassembled but to me that defeats the purpose.

 

but any information will help thanks

the basics are that it is a 16oo cc horizontally opposed, water cooled, pushrod 4 cylinder. You can get the factory service manual on ebay for under $20 usually and that will walk you through dismantling it and reassembling it. They are pretty simple engines. You will have the time of your life. Also gasket kits are available on ebay, which you will want if you really want the engine to run. Have fun!

Subaru used that motor it all their 70's and up to 81 Wagons, cars, and Brats both 2 and 4 wheel drives. Hope that helps. Good luck with it, John

hey thanks guys.... its weird just knowing what cars it was used in and the basics helps make it feel more comfortable while working on it. ill definately invest on the shop manual tho for all the specs and timing.

you could get them up through the mid 80's actually... we could tell an age range from the bell housing and starter position (top center, or drivers side upper)

 

also, are there any stickers on the valve covers signifying whether or not it has hydraulic lifters....?

 

is the EA71 stamp on the front part of the block by the disty, or the rear of the block by the oil fill tube?

There are 2 versions of the EA71 - keep that in mind always.

 

Great engine,either one.

 

1st verse - called narrow case , has top starter all years.

 

2nd verse - called wide case or fat case , has top starter in early years ('79-81) You'll find the starter at driver's side upper begining around 1980 thru any 1600 for the USA onward - 1987?? or so.

 

Chorus - like Sucker King said you'll have a great time. Personal opinion from many is that these were the best for reliability and simplicity.

 

Enjoy!

 

If you're not in a hurry wait on eBay and a factory manual will come around for $5 or so. Otherwise $20 ain't so bad either.

there were no stickers indicating whether or not it is hydrolic lifters or not. last night i tore just about everything off of it so now it is just the case and heads. i want to wait till the service manual gets here or i know more about it before i try cracking it open..... i heard the pistons were the biggest pain in the arse to get out though? somehing about lining up perfectly?

 

well anyway the stamp was in the front right on top towards the pully system

there were no stickers indicating whether or not it is hydrolic lifters or not. last night i tore just about everything off of it so now it is just the case and heads. i want to wait till the service manual gets here or i know more about it before i try cracking it open..... i heard the pistons were the biggest pain in the arse to get out though? somehing about lining up perfectly?

 

well anyway the stamp was in the front right on top towards the pully system

 

Having fun yet? the piston removal thing is that you need a special tool to pull the wrist pins out through little access holes. The tool is like a puller with a slide hammer. Some guys on this board have made their own tools to get out of tracking down the real deal, with great success. perhaps somebody will post a pic of a homemade wrist pin puller?

 

No hyrodrolic lifter stickers means it should have solid lifters. The significance of the location of the ea71 stamp is that the ones stamped on the front of the block are year 1980 and newer. Before that they were stamped on the block above the #4 cylinder. Also significant is the location of the starter mounting hole on the bellhousing. Is it Center top or more towards the drivers side? The latter has a larger flywheel and can be mounted to newer transmissions. Keep us posted, we are full of advice, or at least full of something....

Edited January 24, 200917 yr by the sucker king
can't spell

that would be awesome if someone could post a picture of their homemade tool! that way i could make one and impress the girl who is doing the rebuild with me! lol jk but ill def look at the starter hole again when i get there on monday and let you know... and def keep you guys posted cause i may need some more knowledge.. thanks

that would be awesome if someone could post a picture of their homemade tool! that way i could make one and impress the girl who is doing the rebuild with me! lol jk but ill def look at the starter hole again when i get there on monday and let you know... and def keep you guys posted cause i may need some more knowledge.. thanks

 

Subarus are always goof for impressing girls!!!:banana:

We have not made any more progress lately.... still waitin for service manual

I could probobly scan some stuff that would be helpful to you. Will try tonight. Is she cute?

well today we took the heads off and that was about it. apparently my partner dosent want to be patient and take it slow, because she had the heads half way off before i was there and mixed all the parts up! no worries i sorted them out and figured out which rods and arms came from which side.

 

im guessing she is gonna want to crack the case open on wensday so i guess if i could get some tips on battling the piston heads would be nice. from what i understand you have to pull the plug that is on the side of the case and undo a snap ring?

 

thank you for helpin me out with some info by the way.

Hey, you're in Bellingham, what school are you doing this at?

My custom tools:

 

 

And patience. Hook the nail in the back side of the pin, pull it towards you until the built up crud stops it, then tap it back in and pull again. Three or four tries and the pin is out.

 

On edit:

If you don't have a proper allen wrench for the plugs, then find a bolt head that fits, and weld it onto a socket. For the rears, the bellhousing comes off, and the holes for the pins are right there.

Edited January 28, 200917 yr by 4x4_Welder

dude im doing it at western

today we took out all the bolts and nuts that hold the case together. even the ones for the plate behind the cam shaft gear. But the damn thing wont come apart! what am i doing wrong? is there a special way of going about it or am i proving once again how much of a ********************* i am again?

I am proving once again how much of a ********************* i am again!

 

today we took out all the bolts and nuts that hold the case together. even the ones for the plate behind the cam shaft gear. But the damn thing wont come apart! what am i doing wrong? is there a special way of going about it

 

remove bellhousing and wrist pins

 

read the manual

remove bellhousing and wrist pins

 

read the manual

 

I don't think he has the manual yet, he was waiting on it to show up.

i did remove the bellhousing and the wrist pins. i read the manual and it says to remove the bolts behind the gear connected to the cam shaft. then pull camshaft toward the back. but thats it. ive double checked over and over again if there were any bolts forgotten but we have gotten them all. it seems as tho the manual skips over the splitting the case step. its very vague for a service manual i would say. but ya i dont know what the deal is, figured maybe you guys have run into this problemo before

Make sure you have removed the bolt that held the oil pump feeder tube on the bottom of the crankcase. It joins the two halves. The case can be tuff to separate even once all bolts are out.

Actually I forgot, There is one other uber-hidden bolt. Look on the #1/#3 side of the block. In between the cylinders and just below them:

 

 

see the recessed bolt? betcha that's it.

Oh snap man! lol thank you! i would have never found that! ill try it tomorrow and see if that works