Im going to attempt the rolled on rustoleum job on my Gl wagon. Y have already sanded it down with 220 and then 400 sand paper and removed the 2 lines going down the sides. My question is how do I remove the plastic trim on the doors and fenders, is it possible to do without breaking the clips that hold them in? I was thinking about just painting around them but thats even dumber

 

I already attended to the small dents and scratches with some glazing putty.

 

Materials purchased:

1. 2qts sunburst yellow
   
2. 1qt flat white clean metal primer
   
3. pack of foam brushes
   
4. 2 packs and roller refills
   
5. 2 paint trays
   
6. 220, 400, 800, 1000 grit sand paper
   
7. glazing putty
   
8. brown paper for masking
   
9. masking tape
   
10. 1gl of mineral spirits
    

Total came in at around $83 after taxes.

 

your going to paint your car with brushes?

High density foam rollers actually:grin:

uhh ok, curious to see this.

borrow a better camera or get a cheepo one from value village (in the baggies)

niku you havent heard about this. It has great results but youve got to do it just right.

no usually i do little spots that i can use rattle cans of duplicolor for or i have access to a air compressor and a gravity feed HVLP gun.

 

i'm not casting any judgment i am curious now. i guess if its the right kind of paint an its warm enough out the texture wouldnt be a problem.

is the rustoleum in the big buckets like that the same consistancy and mixture as the stuff in the spray cans?

I have a sweeet camera it was just out of batteries :-\

Niku there are huge threads on this subject. It does need to be a certain temp but no different then if you were useing a spray gun. You roll it on then wetsand roll then wetsand roll then sand it comes out great if you take the time to do it right. I would of gone this rout myself but i have lack of a garage.

 

Ben

sweet, I've been waiting for somebody here to do that so I could see how it turned out... (: keep us posted...

 

I thought you could get to the trim clips from the back...

 

your going to paint your car with brushes?

 

read this: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682

sweet, I've been waiting for somebody here to do that so I could see how it turned out... (: keep us posted...

 

I thought you could get to the trim clips from the back...

 

 

 

read this: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682

 

Yep, I removed the trim clips on my Brat through holes in the inside of the door. Just take the door card off and you can see them. Pliers worked just fine for most of them. The ones on the ends were tricky, though.

 

Jacob

Update: More sanding, bondoing and glazing, learning as I go. Sanded with 220, 400 and finally 800. Waiting to glaze last bondo. Will hopefully prime tonight:banana:

One coat of primer on one side of it. Mixed 50/50 died to the touch in about 30min.

 

Quick question:

When I wet sand will I have to remask the car or will the tape hold?

Quick question:

When I wet sand will I have to remask the car or will the tape hold?

 

If it's good quality tape and the surface was clean it might hold. It also might only partially hold and you may end up with bleeding later - I would remask it personally.

 

I'll be interested to see how your attempt turns out from a beginner standpoint. This method works great if you do it right it just takes some old-world techniques that aren't real common anymore.

 

GD

Its typical 3M blue masking tape. Guess im gonna need 2 or 3 more rolls. I plan on sanding every 2 coats with 1000grit.

hmm i wonder how hard it is to blend it into existing paint after getting it on.

the paint along the surfaces facing up (roof hood) were chipped badly and then just painted over, i am swaping the hood i belive so that would just leave the roof.

 

mabe i'll try this on the roof after i fix a few spots

So, You`re Painting it Partially Yellow, Isn`t it?

I Suggest you to Remask it as GD said; it is More Work but that way you Prevent Failures.

Pics Please, Good Luck!

Kind Regards.

Just thought I'de throw this in... Rustoleum fades pretty fast, and scratches pretty easy. At least in my experiance. Though it is a very simple product to work with for a bit more you could have purchaced superior paints. I realize this is just an "expariment" but will be a shame to see your hard work dulling and fading in 8 months. If you have an extra hood, door, fender etc. laying around Ide use the Rustoleum on that for practice and when you get a real feel for it then you can consider using better products on the real car.

With regards to the fading, a guy painted his corvair several years ago and has taken pics every six months or so. Still looks like it did when he was done. Keep in mind this isnt as simple as giving it a cote of rustoleum and your done with it. Decent automotive paint materials would have been around $150, then I need a gun to shoot it, a compressor, a place to do it etc. etc. This is simple, I guess keeping it waxed will help just in case it does fade.

 

 

 

 

Just thought I'de throw this in... Rustoleum fades pretty fast, and scratches pretty easy. At least in my experiance. Though it is a very simple product to work with for a bit more you could have purchaced superior paints. I realize this is just an "expariment" but will be a shame to see your hard work dulling and fading in 8 months. If you have an extra hood, door, fender etc. laying around Ide use the Rustoleum on that for practice and when you get a real feel for it then you can consider using better products on the real car.

I totally agree with this.

Rustoleum is fine for say a race car that's going to get bashed up at the local short track on a friday night but not for a street car.

I sprayed white Rustoleum on a beater chevy wagon years ago.

Looked great at first but could just about stare and watch it fade.

The time and effort spent in prep doesn't justify cheap materials.

If you insist on the Rustoleum at least add a hardner to it to help with fading.

Don't breathe the stuff as isocyanates are really bad news.

As far as that Corvair in the web goes, white is the most resistant color to fading.

I'll also bet it sits in the shade when not being driven and washed and waxed often which really helps paint longevity.

Edited June 10, 200916 yr by jrfan

I totally agree with this.

Rustoleum is fine for say a race car that's going to get bashed up at the local short track on a friday night but not for a street car.

I sprayed white Rustoleum on a beater chevy wagon years ago.

Looked great at first but could just about stare and watch it fade.

The time and effort spent in prep doesn't justify cheap materials.

If you insist on the Rustoleum at least add a hardner to it to help with fading.

Don't breathe the stuff as isocyanates are really bad news.

As far as that Corvair in the web goes, white is the most resistant color to fading.

I'll also bet it sits in the shade when not being driven and washed and waxed often which really helps paint longevity.

 

I do plan on adding hardener. I purchased valspar which seems to work good with rustoleum. There are plenty of examples of cars painted like this holding up fine. charger69 is the most famous who painted his charger orange around 6 years ago and has put 35k on it and still looks good. I guess I will see how it goes. I know reel paint is better but I cant afford it.

Edited June 10, 200916 yr by Caramanos2000

Here is the third and final coat of primer and my surface before sanding:

 

I heard if its the appliance enamel its as hard as a rock but takes 5 coats or more. Good work by the way!

your going to paint your car with brushes?

 

lol why do you sound surprised? This is a guy who has bedliner on the roof! I am jealous

foam brushes are not a good idea and yes the paint will fade if it doesnt have a proper clear coat duh but if you making your car look better then bondo and faded paint bloyche its the cheap way to go

Yea i was curious about the bedliner thing also. There is a thread on this very subject on this board. It can and does work. It wont fade any faster then any other cheepo rattle can paint job. So maybe he has to touch it up in 5 years. It will still be cheeper then a regular paint job.