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Ideas for unusual mods


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as far as underhood lights go, the 70's and 80s early Z cars have a small light under the hood that pulls apart, and has a long wire on it so you can use it where you need. switch is right on the light housing....

 

height.500_width.500_modified.1237373195.5939.HLP-251.jpg

 

I keep one of these in my car. Works good for everything and water resistant.

 

available at http://www.allelectronics.com for $6

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SSSSSHhhhhh!!! When you read my mind, your not supposed to tell everyone what I'm thinking!! :-p :lol:'

 

Now I gotta go get a patent before someone steals my idea. :rolleyes:

 

There go the voices again ... must give brat more mods ... I wonder if they have anymore stickers at the dollar store ... been needing to add some horse power ... hmmmmm NOS stickers. :drunk:!!

 

I find wrapping my head in tin foil cuts down on some of the noise from "the others" :slobber:

 

Stickers are good, as lots of Pinto owners discovered with 'Holley' and 'Edelbrock', but for my Loyale I found XT seats really add to the hp and torque, at least 5%

 

think my mileage went up too

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i put in a 1000 watt inverter to run some light power tools, instead of the spare tire i have 24 series deep cycle with a charge isolator, i want to make a jeep style spare tire carrier swing out thingy on the back soon

 

I'd like to see some pics of that!

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I do construction, and I haul around stuff a lot. You can see some of my What kind of Crazy things ... thread for more of that.

 

Recently, I took all the seats out to remove & really clean the carpet. And while it was drying, I only put back in the drivers' seat. And it was then I realized that my (non-human) hauling capacity went WAY UP! I'm thinking of cutting a sheet of plywood into an "L" shape that will serve basically as a bed to make my Soobie into a 'utility hauler.' I can get 10' goods in there now with the hatch closed!

 

I already made a "Sheet Goods Hauler" with just a simple piece of angle-iron that fits over the brackets that the rear flip-up seats clamp to. I put notches in it & slide it over the top of that, and it forms a nice, secure & solid resting place for plywood, drywall, Dur-Rock, or whatever I put back there. You can slide 4' wide goods into the back if you bring it up that high - there is one "Sweet Spot" there where they will fit - doesn't fit otherwise. I have a "Roll-up" frame that I use to support the back. Looks stupid when you do it, but it works!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't know how'd you do it on an EA81/82 car since the mirrors are so tiny, but I installed power folding mirrors on my RS. They came stock that way in Japan, I just got a set and switched them to a left-hand-drive configuration. They are uselessly awesome.

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For Digidash subarus, I would look into adding more digital instrumentation. An oil pressure bar line segment, a water temperature LED display, built into the digidash. I think I've seen an XT dash with more LED bar segments added before.

 

height.500_width.500_modified.1237373195.616.BG-10G.jpg

Fury, over on the XT boards, had done some modding on his.

 

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9555

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First off, I LOVE the leather BAJA seats in my BRAT! :banana:

 

What makes em great though is when you attach em to the floor with "wing bolts" for quick removal.

 

Need extra seats at the next fireworks show and DONT wanna sit in the vehicle? NO PROBLEM. :cool:

 

Running the winch on my brat goes hand in hand with heavy DRAW, so I wired up DUAL BATTERIES. no biggie.

 

But I also do LOTS of camping... and so decided to hard-wire a power inverter to my batteries via a relay... and mounted it right in the cab.

 

Now I have 120V wherever I need it! Helps when you NEED to grind fresh coffee on the trail and run the coffeemaker :grin:

 

I found the analog thermo-gauge on the dash to be insufficient, and so wired up a digital gauge that feeds right from the coolant lines off the block. = temperature readings to the 10th of a degree (in real time)

 

I also discovered that a compact set of old computer speakers mounted under the radio (in front of the shifter) keeps things high and dry when wheeling and water crossing.

 

They keep the tunes flowing long after the wet door speakers were dead and gone.

 

Ive done the 2WD HI/Lo mod as well... but lots of folks have. (highly recommend)

 

Ive welded my jumpseats frame to a piece of corrugated steel, and welded 14mm nuts into the bed. Now I can bolt my jumpseats in or out in a FLASH!

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ea81 wagon, So I plywooded my rear deck for hauling, its gotta hinged section that folds down to give me a full 6' of space for camping when you don't wanna set up the tent or hammock or get her butt muddy. Storage box and speakers in the rear seat location. I gotta 120v inverter for the java, I want enought power for a hot plate but thats gonna wait ($) Wood roof rack. I installed fuel/air mixture meter for tuning my weber. I now want to lynchpin the doors but it depends on what I do for speakers on my next interior fab (stain grade wainscotted rear deck and rear doors with plywood slide rails for a coverslip/hauler! :brow:)

 

Something to think of though is finding a set of front seats that fold dead flat, situate them so the backs go into the rear seat location or atleast level out with the hight of the rear deck after its been upholstered and cushioned, deck out all the voids so when you want to "sleep " you can just lay the seats down pull the curtains and (go) you have a full bed ready car! Snow bunnies dream! I don't think the seat hight will work though

Edited by Yo'J
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I had thought a nuclear powered hover suubie with snow blade might have been useful last winter... can't get the material for the flux capacitor though :-\

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

yeah ok, I'm a little bored, 'scuse that post :grin:

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  • 2 years later...

you guys for your under hood lighting, could just get a switch like that of a car alarm hood switch. h514AU43-fp.jpg

 

contact is broken when hood is down, and turns the light on when hood open. of course, this would leave the light on all the time the hood is open so a secondary switch would be needed for daylight work so as not to drain the battery.

 

not really necessary, but different.

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you guys for your under hood lighting, could just get a switch like that of a car alarm hood switch. h514AU43-fp.jpg

 

contact is broken when hood is down, and turns the light on when hood open. of course, this would leave the light on all the time the hood is open so a secondary switch would be needed for daylight work so as not to drain the battery.

 

not really necessary, but different.

 

Or a timed relay that kicks off after an amount of time (Like GM has)

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