I've got another 89 gl s/w m/t. This thing is in primo condition, 130k on it, I'd like to do about a 3 inch lift on it. I'm sure the proper place to post this is in the mods, but I'll try here first. Do any forum members have home made lift kits that they sell, and if so, how much.

 

Its something that I am going to eventually do, we got this car into our salvage yard after the guy put a "rebuilt" engine in. 3 months later, it put a whole in the block, and the place he got the engine, conveniantly went out of business. He bought an 09 and we bought his from him for 100 bucks, I got it for 250. Would like to lift it though

Even better, does anyone have a blueprint or designs they would like to share of a 2-3 inch home made lift kit?

we can help theres a bunch out there

Do any forum members have home made lift kits that they sell, and if so, how much.

 

This fella here makes some of the best Lift Kits around.

 

http://www.sjrlift.com/

I wouldn't trust myself to make a homemade lift kit, it would turn out much like if you were to ask Helen Keller to do open heart surgery, sure the task would eventually get done, but the results would be less than pretty:-\

I wouldn't trust myself to make a homemade lift kit, it would turn out much like if you were to ask Helen Keller to do open heart surgery, sure the task would eventually get done, but the results would be less than pretty:-\

 

I agree... I could eventually get it done,too. But,weeks later and a thousand dollars later,I MIGHT have something that works.

 

Unless metal fab is a hobby or interest that you may have,you are far better off buying one from someone who's in the business.

Body Lift aren't hard to make. Some simple rules to follow like front strut tops need 7mm offset inwards every 25mm lift to correct. Steering extension is needed which can be tricky if you are no good at welding. There's heaps of pictures of them around this forum, and that's pretty much all the blue prints you should need. Just measure the bolt patterns (only necessary for the engine mounts and the EA82's rear sub frame mount as well as strut tops, as the rest are just single bolt blocks).

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100980&highlight=lift+kit*

 

Search box is your friend.

I have a little draw up in my email from one eye on how to do strut spacer lifts (body lift?) for just 2 inches. I was also under the impression that if you just push the struts down you don't have to adjust steering what with the front x member not moving at all. Granted it is best to do an overall lift of spacing the x member and strut so as to not wear on CV axles. I myself am planning a 2" lift for my brat in the next week or so.

This will help, just read the whole thing............

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94629

 

Jeff

Seriously, this has to be one of the easiest things in the world to do, and it is a great introduction to fabrication.

 

If you are still totally freaked out about it, just make a weekend trip over Hwy 20, and get a kit from Jeff (One Eye). For a bit more cash he'd probably even help you put it in. (don't mean to speak for you Jeff, but, I just have a hunch) That way you can see the whole deal, and actually learn something. He's the fairest person you are going to find to get this kit made, because he actually does this all for the enjoyment of it, rather than money.

 

The kit that these guys are talking about is seriously made up of $30 worth of steel, and the time it takes to cut drill, and bend all of it. So don't expect to pay $5,000,000 for one. The time the person used making it is worth a bit, but not some the prices I've seen kits sold for. So, get someone on here to draw you up a decent schematic, and have them made at a local fab shop (should take them about an hour), or talk to Jeff (One Eye), If you deal with Jeff; he, and I can knock you out a kit after I get back from Bonneville.

 

Good Luck!

Seriously, this has to be one of the easiest things in the world to do, and it is a great introduction to fabrication.

 

If you are still totally freaked out about it, just make a weekend trip over Hwy 20, and get a kit from Jeff (One Eye). For a bit more cash he'd probably even help you put it in. (don't mean to speak for you Jeff, but, I just have a hunch) That way you can see the whole deal, and actually learn something. He's the fairest person you are going to find to get this kit made, because he actually does this all for the enjoyment of it, rather than money.

 

The kit that these guys are talking about is seriously made up of $30 worth of steel, and the time it takes to cut drill, and bend all of it. So don't expect to pay $5,000,000 for one. The time the person used making it is worth a bit, but not some the prices I've seen kits sold for. So, get someone on here to draw you up a decent schematic, and have them made at a local fab shop (should take them about an hour), or talk to Jeff (One Eye), If you deal with Jeff; he, and I can knock you out a kit after I get back from Bonneville.

 

Good Luck!

 

You can speak for me anytime Will!!! I'm in on this deal, wouldn't take long at all...................3 hours max.....................As long as all the parts are there it goes on quick. There is about 10 bucks in bolts and 20 bucks in steel at the most.

 

Jeff

I have a little draw up in my email from one eye on how to do strut spacer lifts (body lift?) for just 2 inches. I was also under the impression that if you just push the struts down you don't have to adjust steering what with the front x member not moving at all. Granted it is best to do an overall lift of spacing the x member and strut so as to not wear on CV axles. I myself am planning a 2" lift for my brat in the next week or so.

 

pleade use blocks on the front crossmember too.

There are too many post on here of people griping about tire wire, camber like \ / , and yes CV axles wearing. Don't waste your time on this at all unless you are doing the crossmember the right way-with blocks.

pleade use blocks on the front crossmember too.

There are too many post on here of people griping about tire wire, camber like \ / , and yes CV axles wearing. Don't waste your time on this at all unless you are doing the crossmember the right way-with blocks.

 

No you are wrong, I have 2 cars with this lift, and this is how it is..................

For the most part you are going to have tire ware no matter what, if you do drop the front crossmember you are going to loose all the ground clearance. So do not drop it. I've put a ton of these lifts on and John (Marcus56) is the only one with trouble, he even has the 15* blocks in, I have straight blocks in mine and have very little camber issue.

 

I just took this picture this morning this is how it sits..........

 

Here are a few more to just drive the point home

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That should give you an Idea.............

 

 

Jeff

Edited August 11, 200916 yr by one eye

Yup I have done several lifts like Jeff as well, and no tire wear issues

Here is a quick drawing I did. For my brat I was told a 22* in-set was needed which for 2" block turns out to be a 11/16" move inward. The blocks on each bolt are easier to make obviously, but I didn't like the idea of the top hat balanced on two blocks. this design, the top hat goes into the hole, and then it has pressure all around it, not just in two places. It is VERY similar to SJR's design and others but its square because I happen to have a good supply of square tubing.

Opinions and criticism are always welcome

Really nice drawring there, what program is that? I would weld in the studs, so you don't have to access the bolt heads.

Thanks. It's just google sketchup. Not a bad program to basic sketching and 3d design, but I prefer autodesk inventor. SOOOO much more you can do and a much more efficient program. But I digress. Hopefully the blocks get put together soon and work as I am picturing them in my head.

It is VERY similar to SJR's design and others but its square because I happen to have a good supply of square tubing.

Opinions and criticism are always welcome

 

I think the size of square tube you need to use would be too large to fit in the strut tower. Perhaps with some creative grinding of the horizontal plates.

I am thinking rounding out the corners will make it fit better. I haven't taken measurements inside the strut tower to see how small it has to be yet.