el_freddo Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 That's awesome mate!!JesZek, there is no 3at with 4.44s - I was talking about modding an AWD gearbox to have them with the L series NA low range and locking centre diff. Then you'll know what the "power" of the EA82 is!I think Tom you'll find that the 3at will be better at turning those wheels with the EA82 than the manual will. Those wheels will add some considerable rotational weight to the drivetrain, this is what the EA82 will struggle with until you're on the down hill...The 27's would be enough fun with an EA82, but they took out enough from the EJ22 with the stock manual box. Trust me when I say the it's time to upgrade to the EJ22 Then build a 4.44 box for it for the ultimate offroader CheersBennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 ... JesZek, there is no 3at with 4.44s - I was talking about modding an AWD gearbox ... Thanks for the Response. Also I believe that the Automatic could manage the Extra big Tires, in a Better way. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 The Snorkel is an eBay special that fits the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero. I'll find you a ad on eBay. Bennie actually turned me onto this, I ask him what his snorkel was since it followed the body lines almost identical. He also explained the Heat gun trick to reform the top of the snorkel so it will press up to the A-pillar. Basically, fill it with sand (Playbox sand is what I used) and heat it up right at the 45 or 90* bend it has and just start pulling on it to where you want, run cold water over it to set it in place. WARNING! Just do not heat it up too much, otherwise it'll make that spot shiny. As for the gearbox topic, I guess we'll see what happens. The important thing right now is, I at least snagged a 5spd D/R. Once I get all the welding done, I can then start worrying about modifying the drivetrain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Sweet, thanks bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 Picked up the 5spd D/R from the Junkyard today. It came out of a White '86 GL from Oregon which moved to IL and must have been impounded. Car was pretty spotless, and actually fired up and engaged the clutch while sitting in the junkyard, had a new Batt and Alt. Car was serviced at Les Schwab. Was a pretty nice car. So heres the Trans, even has rather fresh gear oil in it! Looks like I will need the Trans mount since they cut it off the bushing. PM if you have one! I will also need to buy a new clutch cable, and see what I can do about the Speedo cable. Not sure if the one from the 3AT will work, or if its too short. I also need a manual driveshaft, so PM me if you have one those too! Everything seems solid on the gearbox, output shaft doesn't have much play, nor do the diff stubs. Everything looks pretty good. But I will also need a Flywheel. Can new flywheels be found on eBay? perhaps I will look on Rockauto for a part number and just cross it. Here are the two Levers they cut off. I have the D/R stick which I pulled from the car before they touched or Torched it lol. I also have the gear sector plate and dust boot along with the center console (Its dark blue) :/ Also snagged the Pedal box. So what else do I need to make the 5spd swap pretty much factory? I know the gauge cluster has a Low Range light on it somewhere, but the one in the car was damaged so I didn't pick it up, also I wasn't sure how similar the wiring/connectors would be (Suppose I don't need the Light, nor do I need a Neutral Safety switch) But what do I need to make the reverse lights work?Also, can someone post up or send me some photos of how to extend the Shift and D/R rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 The damaged Shifter linkage misses the Ruber "Vibration Damper" mount, which by the way... ... just broke away on my Subie recently... More info: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/99881-what-have-you-done-to-your-soobie-lately-please-post-in-here-and-keep-it-going/page-270?do=findComment&comment=1276448 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) Also you'll need the Clutch kit and Flywheel, but you don't need the extra cable (which is attached to the Clutch's fork) for the Hill Holder. ... But what do I need to make the reverse lights work? ... Edit: All your answers are Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119332-3at-to-5sp-dr-conversion/ Kind Regards. Edited March 20, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 6" ADF front lift is on! Car sits level now. 4" B.O.S.S kit is for sale in the For sale section... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Finally painted the 6" front lift from Anderson Design & Fabrication. Coated with Dupli-Colors Truck Bed Coating. Dries rock hard and chip resistant. Much better than Rust-Oliums bed coating which is more like Textured Paint. As for the Tranny/EJ swap and badging in the Snorkel. I have been told many years to swap to EJ because the EA82s are junk. So far, I have proved many wrong with how durable the EA82 can be with typical maintenance, so far with many years and miles running at High RPM because of the 3AT, even with larger tires and probably more load, the motor is probably just as good as when it was knew. I bet if I pulled the heads off, the bores would still have the cross hatching from the Manufacture. Head gaskets are original as well and will remain original until the wonderful day when I do put new cams in it. It may not boost torque a lot, but a added boost pared with a 5spd D/R will surely be just what this car needs. I am compelled to keep the EA82 and not follow the masses with EJ swaps. The only swap I would consider, would be swapping in a diesel if they ever make it to America. I would like to experience the new Diesel motor that they are running in other countries. As for the Transmission, I would enjoy making a transmission like you have Bennie, it sounds like a good combo and possible increase in durability! I'm surprised the 4.44 isn't too much for the 5spd. I know the 4EATs in the 90s Outbacks run 4.44, but then again, they are also Autos. I would think 4.11 with the 5spd would be a good mesh up even with 30s. We will see, the car is ever changing, thats for sure you can change cams w/o doin hg's btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yeah I know, if I remember, I can just pull the Cam straight out the front of the head. I did cam seals on my motor way back when I did the T-belts. I was just thinking, since I would change the cam's and I'd probably have the motor out anyway, I might as well do a complete reseal and clean up on everything. Does anyone know if Delta cam still does the grind on EA82 cams? Just for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Tom,You can remove the cam box without touching the head.And if you're thinking of "playing" with resealing the EA82 you'll be sadly disappointed and wishing you had an EJ. Trust me, been there done that. Even removing this cam box is a load of fun to reseal...EA82s aren't junk, they're just a pita to reseal after opening up, the lifters tick and did I mention the resealing? The bottom end is just as bullet proof as the EA81's. I can guarantee you'll see the hone marks on the bores, it's a standard subaru thing!As for the linkages - find some tube metal that fits over the pipe on the stabiliser arm and selector rod. This will allow you to bend and setup to where ever you need it to get to. I had to bend my linkages to get them to work with the AWD box as they're slightly different between the PT and AWD boxes. The 4.44s shouldn't be too much for the box, after all it makes it easier for the drive gears to turn the wheels, the flip side is it makes it harder for the wheels to turn the drive gears on engine braking... I believe there is an outback model here that runs 4.44s and there are a couple of WRX models that are the same.Cheers Bennie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Finally, a good first look at the ADF Front 6" Lift! Oh, yeah, did I mention, it sits a little higher Also put new Fuel Injection hoses on! Factory original Clamps! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Looking tough mate! VERY TOUGH!Have you managed to take it for a drive yet with the auto?I'm still sticking to the auto being the more drivable option between the two gearboxes, so don't go changing that auto out just yet! Still those wheels and 3.7 diff ratio... Nasty! You can work out your predicted speeds etc using the gear ratio/tyre size calculator from this website:http://www.subarugears.com/Ratios/Ratios.html ^ This ratio calculator was not the one I used and seems a lot more complicated, but it will do the same thing CheersBennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Its an interesting caculator, now sure how accurate it is. I put the correct gear ratios in for the 5spd EA transmission, and ran it so it'll shift at 4000rpm, it tops out at 117mph, but if I have it ride out to 6000rpm it figures you'll be driving 190mph HAHAHA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Haven't driven it yet, still need to get new rear drums to redress, finish the steering link, pitch stopped, and then I could drive it. But I already took the front seats out again to finish the floor pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Fenders look like they might need to be cut for tight turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Possibly. I won't know till I get the steering linkage back on. It'll be close, if anything. I'm hoping I may not need to redesign the inner well where the tire may rub. Either way, it won't be hard to add clearance in there since I'm already welding in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Fenders look like they might need to be cut for tight turns. ... it won't be hard to add clearance in there since I'm already welding in that area. Especially if you Borrow this Fender wheel arch Reformer Tool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 The inner fenders on mine needed some massaging to clear. I trimmed enough on my fenders to clear about 30's or 31's for when i get different tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 But the thing to remember is, your wheels stick out further than mine. I bet the backspacing on your are over 5" where as mine are 4.75" as I ordered them in that backpspacing (Also with a 7mm Offset) so they pretty much match the Pugs. The more the wheels stick out, the more you will have to trim for turn in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 I need to see what the correct way to de-smog the EA82 is. I totally de-smogged my '92 Landcruiser without creating a CEL and the only things that remain from the Emissions system are the two Oxygen Sensors. So can I take the same steps to the EA82 without causing a CEL? I want to remove everything possible that is not needed for correct operation. ERG, ERG Purge Solenoids, Charcoal Canister, and I think that sums it up. Any info on this would be great! I wouldn't even mind eliminating the O2 sensors if I could put the correct resister in place to trick the ECU, any info on that would also be of great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Its an interesting caculator, now sure how accurate it is. I put the correct gear ratios in for the 5spd EA transmission, and ran it so it'll shift at 4000rpm, it tops out at 117mph, but if I have it ride out to 6000rpm it figures you'll be driving 190mph HAHAHA! ^ That's probably about right - if you had your car in 5th at 4000rpm with that tyre size I'm sure you'd be pulling that speed... but I doubt you'd be doing it with an EA! Even and EJ would probably be a push to get there - would need a very long straight road IMO. I'm disappointed they changed their calculator, the old one was so much better I reckon. You should try changing the shift RPM to see what you get, this way you could find your cruise speed rpm's and see if it's what you want/what you think your EA82 could do. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Amazing work dude. How much have you spent on POR? That stuff ain't cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 I no longer use POR, its junk and is way to hard to prepare the surface correctly for it to actually bond to the metal. As of recent I've been using a combo of Brush-on truckbed liner and spray on truck bed liner (Duple-color works great)DO NOT use the Rust-olium truck bed liner spray, in time it just flakes off. Basically for entire floor pan (Inside and Out) I use primer on the new bear metal that has been welded in, then I cost that with some type of high solid paint, then one the entire floor is finished (Inside and Out) I then coat everything with some type of brush/roll on trucked liner, something that dries rock hard but thick, after that dries, I may coat the underside of the floor pan with a good paintable undercoating for added protection. What I would really like to do sometime, but would never happen. Would be to take the stripped down shell to a place that does professional bed coatings, cause that stuff is awesome, feels like stone once cured. I would have the entire inside of the car sprayed with it and possibly the underside if they can put it on a Rotisserie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I no longer use POR, its junk and is way to hard to prepare the surface correctly for it to actually bond to the metal. As of recent I've been using a combo of Brush-on truckbed liner and spray on truck bed liner (Duple-color works great) DO NOT use the Rust-olium truck bed liner spray, in time it just flakes off. Basically for entire floor pan (Inside and Out) I use primer on the new bear metal that has been welded in, then I cost that with some type of high solid paint, then one the entire floor is finished (Inside and Out) I then coat everything with some type of brush/roll on trucked liner, something that dries rock hard but thick, after that dries, I may coat the underside of the floor pan with a good paintable undercoating for added protection. What I would really like to do sometime, but would never happen. Would be to take the stripped down shell to a place that does professional bed coatings, cause that stuff is awesome, feels like stone once cured. I would have the entire inside of the car sprayed with it and possibly the underside if they can put it on a Rotisserie. You might be able to find someone that would dip the car, factory style. Chassis rust would be a thing of the past 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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