Crazyeights Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Compression test next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Can't think of anything grounding related that would make only 1 cylinder missfire. Compression check is in order. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 So I realized today that when I pull the spark plug cable off, the ticking goes away, but it runs even rougher. any ideas what this could mean? I will try to get a compression test done soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Just out of curiosity, how did you determine a misfire on cylinder 3 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Just out of curiosity, how did you determine a misfire on cylinder 3 ? Chicken Test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Are your lifters solid or hydrolic are the push rods seated right the clicking could be a valve stuck open when the cylinder fires or spark jumping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 It could be a failed head gasket to I've had a brand new gasket blow out the side I have no idea why but it also made a clicking like sound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Just out of curiosity, how did you determine a misfire on cylinder 3 ? I can hear the cylinder clicking on number three. Also, when I remove the spark plug wire on the number three cylinder for some reason the clicking goes away however it runs a lot more rough. But that tells me that my problem is on cylinder number three. It's almost like his firing but not all the way, like maybe not enough you'll is getting to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Are your lifters solid or hydrolic are the push rods seated right the clicking could be a valve stuck open when the cylinder fires or spark jumping[/quote The valves all seem to be functioning normally. In the pushrods are seated properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Probably the carb since you replaced pretty much the entire ignition system is there fuel coming through the line and even if the screws are set right doesn't mean the jets aren't clogged think of a stuffy nose even when you pick the smallest bugge it can make you breathe allot better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Probably the carb since you replaced pretty much the entire ignition system is there fuel coming through the line and even if the screws are set right doesn't mean the jets aren't clogged think of a stuffy nose even when you pick the smallest bugger it can make you breathe allot better Edited August 2, 2016 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Can you spin the push rods while the valve is closed sorry I'm guessing here I'm going back to my vw days its been almost 20 years since I had a ea81 what did you do to it during the reseal rebuild how deep did you go head gaskets rings ?? Because you say the clicking goes away when you pull the plug wire it would make sense that noise is ether spark jump or external loss of compression ether a valve or a bad gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Can you spin the push rods while the valve is closed sorry I'm guessing here I'm going back to my vw days its been almost 20 years since I had a ea81 what did you do to it during the reseal rebuild how deep did you go head gaskets rings ?? Because you say the clicking goes away when you pull the plug wire it would make sense that noise is ether spark jump or external loss of compression ether a valve or a bad gasket I replaced head gaskets, intake manifold gasket's, I rebuilt the carburetor, I got new pushrods, a new rocker arm for that side, but I didn't touch the rings or the pistons other than cleaning the top of the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Probably the carb since you replaced pretty much the entire ignition system is there fuel coming through the line and even if the screws are set right doesn't mean the jets aren't clogged think of a stuffy nose even when you pick the smallest bugge it can make you breathe allot better What would make the carburetor only give fuel to three of the pistons though? I am going to try cleaning the carb again today, and I'm going to try taking off the intake manifold and making sure there are no obstructions that are blocking the fuel flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Have you done a compression test or a leak down test if the cylinder holds pressure and releases pressure as you turn the crank I would say valves are good the tick might be a wrist pin or a rod bearing as far as we know if the ticking stops when you pull the plugs that sounds like piston slap to me do a leak down test Edited August 2, 2016 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Is the tick the only reason you think it's not giving fuel to 3 unhook the coil and.crank it a good few times and pull the plug and see if it's dry Edited August 2, 2016 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 a vacume leak on the intake would cause one cylinder not to fire right a intake gasket would do that and so would a vacume line being off maybe a bad seal on the vacume break booster but dosent exsplain the ticking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 based on what you sead im still thinking a valve is not closing maybe one of the pushrods is the wrong size or the valves arent adjusted right or a bad hydrolic lifter maybe spinning the push rod while the valve is closed is a quick easy test to see if the valves are close enuff to run ive been stumped before only to have some one else glance at it for a second and say theres the problem maybe a fresh set of eyes would help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Do a leak down test take the plug out get a hand pump with a gauge and pump some air in there and see if it holds air you can rent the tool from any auto parts store for free if it holds air turn the crank with a bar and see if air comes out the carb or throttle body on the intake stroke and do it again and see if it goes out the exhaust on the exhaust stroke and see if it holds air on the compression stroke Edited August 2, 2016 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 Did a compression test today. Tester read it was running at about 149 on the Bad cylinder. Which at an altitude of 5000 feet, I think that is pretty good compression. So here's what I'm thinking… I think that while I was putting the intake manifold back on, or the carburetor back on, I might have left either a piece of rag or maybe a nut or bolt somewhere that is now keeping the fuel flow from getting to the cylinder. This is really my only other option, since Spark is OK and fuel seems to be flowing well. What I plan on doing is taking off the intake manifold and and blowing down it with compressed air, as well as sucking out with a shop vac. Just to be sure I did not miss anything I will reach down with a magnet head and see if I can retrieve any missing bolts or not. If this fails, I will be taking the car to our local superspecialist and hoping that he can find the problem. Also, it could be possible that when I cut the carburetor gaskets, I did not cut them correctly and maybe they're partially blocking the fuel flow. I don't think this is the problem but it could be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Don't pull your intake yet ... I don't think you would leave anything in your intake - You know better than that. First try unplugging the coil. Then turn over several times with key. Pull plugs to see if they are all wet with fuel. All cyl have fuel? Good. Next, run the car in total darkness, hood open, and look for spark jump at the plugs... Maybe swap #1 and #3 wires. Could have a cracked insulator on your spark plug - Inspect closely. Check your disty cap for cracks and clean up the contacts. If you have a spare cap, try that. Make sure firing order is 1 3 2 4 counterclockwise. Ohm out your plug wires to check resistance. The ticking could be an exhaust leak from below - check at exhaust to head while lying under the car. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray - see if idle changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 of all these, my left field throw to home plate ... 7% likely a cracked insulator on spark plug. Ceramic is somewhat fragil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 what was the compresion on the other cylinders any back fireing are you sure you using the right timing marks its posable your plug is fireing while the valve is still open the timing light only gives you # 1 timing or what ever cylinder its hooked to recheck top dead center and confirm you rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire then rework your wires to match your fireing order dosent hurt to double check the simple stuff its always the simple little stuff that gets me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) sorry, accidentally double posted Edited August 6, 2016 by Sapper 157 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Don't pull your intake yet ... I don't think you would leave anything in your intake - You know better than that. First try unplugging the coil. Then turn over several times with key. Pull plugs to see if they are all wet with fuel. All cyl have fuel? Good. Next, run the car in total darkness, hood open, and look for spark jump at the plugs... Maybe swap #1 and #3 wires. Could have a cracked insulator on your spark plug - Inspect closely. Check your disty cap for cracks and clean up the contacts. If you have a spare cap, try that. Make sure firing order is 1 3 2 4 counterclockwise. Ohm out your plug wires to check resistance. The ticking could be an exhaust leak from below - check at exhaust to head while lying under the car. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray - see if idle changes. of all these, my left field throw to home plate ... 7% likely a cracked insulator on spark plug. Ceramic is somewhat fragil. I know that I know better, but I am capable of some pretty stupid stuff, and like I said I have checked everything else. All of this I have done except for the vacuum leak check, and the spark jump test, and wet fuel test. I have tried several different spark plugs, all NGK, and all of them are firing and working as they should. The cap and rotor are new and clean, and I have tried swapping them out with my old one and it does nothing. I rechecked the firing order literally a 100 times. I bought and installed a brand-new set of NGK wires and ohms tested all of them and they're all good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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