Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

FAILED Emissions!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Matt, theres usallaly an idle adjustment on the throttle linkage attaching to the carbrator, or in your case, I believe the fuel injector air flow controller... where ever the throttle cable hooks up there should be an adjustment, someware near that area, hope this helps:-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

k, well then try this

goto the throttle cable where it hooks to the linkage.. theres a cable adjustment.. loosen that up a lil bit and see if your rpms drop a few at idle... my car idle'd high and I turned out the idle screw a lil bit and nothing happened.. I loosened the throttle cable a lil bit and that dropped me down to my 700 RPM idle.

 

BTW all you have to do is get it down to 1000 RPMS I think.. I just checked my IM sheet and mine was idleing at 1056 when I took my IM test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brat Failed horrabliey too 2yrs ago i had to get a wavier even after tons of money on tune ups carb ajustments oil chages and a hole lot of stuff and it still failed every freakin time.;

 

I got this stuff called Gaurantee 2 Pass or G2P or (you money back) follow the direction on the box

 

Mine passed with flying colors

 

You can find G2P at checkers or autozone or like stores I tell you this stuff realy works I talked to several people and they all either used it them self or know of some one that did

 

Hassey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's no limit on NOx? Sweet! Ok. Change your oil. Put a new air filter on it. Crank the timing up 5-6 degrees. Or more. Stop before it pings, well a little is ok for our puposes. Is the gas tank about a quarter full? Pour about 8 bottles of DRYGAS in there.

 

Changing oil removes fuel contaminated oil that the PCV is huffing.

Clean air filter= more air.

Timing increase gets fuel burning earlier so HC and CO go down.

Alcohol removes HC from equation, also lowering CO numbers.

Sorry, premium wasn't a good choice. It is slower burning, so HC and CO can go up.

 

Sorry for the choppy english. I get excited when I think about fooling "The Man".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt, I was being serious. If you want to offroad, i would say get a carbd car for cheap, because the amount of work you would have to do to get all the turbo plumbing and wiring out and getting the carbd motor in. I might be willing to buy the wagon off you for the right price or if you just pull the engine ill buy that off you too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how well do you know your books?

start with making sure things like ignition timing are spot-on, and that all of your sensors are working first. i remember how you said it ran like crap, but now it runs like a scalded dog. sounds like you're making progress. but maybe a few more bugs can be worked out of it. do some research on the basics of automotive workings.

 

too bad there are emissions. they dont have them around here. i know that my car my car with its floppy carb and 35oo idle wouldn to pass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stop crying Matt. The car you have is MINT! Its one of the only running EA81T's ive heard of. Washington emissions cannot be THAT bad. Hell, if Eric can get a EA81 with a 32/36 weber to pass smog, im sure you (or someone who actually knows how to work on a subaru) can get it to pass.

 

Here are a few ideas:

Make sure your idle is within spec's

Make sure your timing is within spec's

Make sure ALL of your exhaust is 100%! The turbo might have a cat before turbo, and one after the turbo. Make sure they are good and not clogged.

 

Also, drive the car for an hour or so, get the catalytic converters good and hot before it is tested.... they work better the hotter they are.

 

And stop whining! If you dont like the car, sell it. If you want a carb'd wagon to lift... buy one. Don't ruin a perfect EA81T Wagon.

 

-Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK OK OK, Matt, look at the back side of the trottle body, there should be a screw in the casing going straight down into the engine, that is the idle adjustment.

 

Sorry I didn't tell you earlier, but I had to go out and wrk on my car. Man I can't believe all the mis-information you got.

 

I believe the idle is 850 rpms, but I can remember the degree setting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...