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Posted 17 November 2003 - 04:58 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:19 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:26 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:30 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:53 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 06:13 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 06:17 PM
goto the throttle cable where it hooks to the linkage.. theres a cable adjustment.. loosen that up a lil bit and see if your rpms drop a few at idle... my car idle'd high and I turned out the idle screw a lil bit and nothing happened.. I loosened the throttle cable a lil bit and that dropped me down to my 700 RPM idle.
BTW all you have to do is get it down to 1000 RPMS I think.. I just checked my IM sheet and mine was idleing at 1056 when I took my IM test.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 06:28 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 07:03 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:02 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:09 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:21 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:34 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:37 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:41 PM
I got this stuff called Gaurantee 2 Pass or G2P or (you money back) follow the direction on the box
Mine passed with flying colors
You can find G2P at checkers or autozone or like stores I tell you this stuff realy works I talked to several people and they all either used it them self or know of some one that did
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:43 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:46 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:50 PM
see I have bad luck today! this was my 666th post! talk about sacrilegious!
Posted 17 November 2003 - 08:58 PM
Changing oil removes fuel contaminated oil that the PCV is huffing.
Clean air filter= more air.
Timing increase gets fuel burning earlier so HC and CO go down.
Alcohol removes HC from equation, also lowering CO numbers.
Sorry, premium wasn't a good choice. It is slower burning, so HC and CO can go up.
Sorry for the choppy english. I get excited when I think about fooling "The Man".
Posted 17 November 2003 - 09:07 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 09:08 PM
start with making sure things like ignition timing are spot-on, and that all of your sensors are working first. i remember how you said it ran like crap, but now it runs like a scalded dog. sounds like you're making progress. but maybe a few more bugs can be worked out of it. do some research on the basics of automotive workings.
too bad there are emissions. they dont have them around here. i know that my car my car with its floppy carb and 35oo idle wouldn to pass.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:35 PM
Here are a few ideas:
Make sure your idle is within spec's
Make sure your timing is within spec's
Make sure ALL of your exhaust is 100%! The turbo might have a cat before turbo, and one after the turbo. Make sure they are good and not clogged.
Also, drive the car for an hour or so, get the catalytic converters good and hot before it is tested.... they work better the hotter they are.
And stop whining! If you dont like the car, sell it. If you want a carb'd wagon to lift... buy one. Don't ruin a perfect EA81T Wagon.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:50 PM
Sorry I didn't tell you earlier, but I had to go out and wrk on my car. Man I can't believe all the mis-information you got.
I believe the idle is 850 rpms, but I can remember the degree setting.
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