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I don’t see anything for A/C in what I do have. Hang in there. If you’ve got a local dealer with an older technician ask that guy.

Picked up some was-chrome aftermarket wheels for $50. advertised as brat wheels. Don't know much about them and they need some work and polishing. I'll probably drop them off at a car restoration place. I did find a site the seems to have a catalog scan about the wheels, so I have some specs. https://vintagewheelcatalogs.com/cal-master/ I'm assuming these are Cal-Look wheels for the Volkswagen guys that also happened to be made for Subarus. If anyone's got anymore info I'd love to hear it, like if these folks are still in business or if they got a phone number, also if anyone has any hub caps #1019 I need 2.

Thank you. This has been the most helpful reply by far. Specifically in regards to the swapping. I'm planning to get it done after the 1st of the year as thats when my mechanic is next free.

There was but it was changed out. I've had both cats replaced and it's still happening.

It was a code 34. I inspected the wiring harness terminals to the EGR solenoid and they were corroded. I replaced the terminals and no more CEL. Note to self, if an issue is intermittent check the wiring and terminals.

Thanks a ton!

The ecu doesn’t care about block or heads - it just wants the sensor data to tell the injectors what to do. Mix these up and you’ll have issues. Cam timing on the lobes *might* cause an issue but I have my doubts about that too. Swapping the block will not achieve anything. If swapping stuff, swapping heads for the correct units (if they’re not the right ones) will make things easier to diagnose. Issue with trying this out is that the intake manifold is specific to the phase one or phase 2 - so they can’t be interchanged which typically means it’s difficult to mix a phase 1 head and intake with phase 2 engine management.

CEL is back. So I'd bet the ECU wasn't the issue. At least not the main issue. I had to get to work and I didn't have time to pull the code and poke around with my multimeter. My guess is it's another code 35. I'll post back after work to confirm. It ran fine but I noticed a high idle, around 1500 rpm as well as a fluttering vacuum. Nothing major but more flutter than "normal". If the purge valve sticks open, does that mean that excess vapors are entering the intake? If so that'd explain the high idle. Too much fuel. Can the purge valve have issues with sticking open yet still test okay with a multimeter? Does the ECU know when the valve is open based off its resistance? If so maybe the valve is testing okay, but is having issues with sticking open which throws the CEL. My new valve will be here early next week so hopefully this solves the issue. If it's not the valve and not the ECU, then I just have to do some harness work. I like harness work, I can do it inside in my sweats rather than out in the cold freezing my hands off. :]

Thanks for all the input. I am currently changing out the muffler. Then going to change all the struts out. After that I will probably do a tune up and check the valve clearances. I too have a touchy throttle from idle. But the car did set for 5 years, and I have only run through 1/3 tank with some fuel additive in it, so it might even out later. Or I might clean out the throttle body and see if that helps. Hush

Local yard. www.car-part.com is a good search engine.

I vaguely recall sohc single port EJ22 is an oddball thing somewhere around 97 when they went from phase 1 to phase 2. Are the valve covers on the heads the old school ones that have "16 VALVES" imprinted on them? \ If it's an 99 ecu, it's probably not really meant for those heads, probably why performance is poor. Good and bad is ecu is fairly simple and doesn't care which block is in there. Swap in the 2000 block, it's what the 99' ecu wants over all. Or if your state emissions doesn't care, drop in an 97-98 ecu and it might fix everything; if the current block has good compression and no mechanical issues.

Did a little more weekend deathwheel work today - took about an hour to get some access panels cut into the bed floor so I can more easily add some gussets to the subframe while it's bolted to the assembly. The idea here is that I'm going to use them both to reinforce the subframe and it will give me a locating feature when I go to tack this piece into the car so everything lines back up. The idea here is that I'm going to use them both to reinforce the subframe and it will give me a locating feature when I go to tack this piece into the car so everything lines back up. I've still got to take things in and out a couple times before this becomes a more permanent part of the vehicle. I'll probably weld the panels back in once I'm satisfied with the subframe and suspension towers, as some of these welds I'm planning on leaving only semi-permanent till I've got all the clearances worked out with the coilovers, so I'll be leaving access until I'm sure I don't need it anymore. This last photo looks real scary but in reality it's just me adding four tack welds to the gussets only on the subframe. I'll be removing it one last time to box everything in and hit it with a bit of weld-through primer. Folks with a real professional background in automotive engineering would probably cringe at some parts of my approach, but I got everything measured up as even and straight as a mallet and tape measure would allow. I'm honestly pretty impressed with myself at how evenly I was able to get everything to line up with a couple symmetrical features I used as reference points (a couple bolt holes and a few key bends/seams. I find myself repeating the mantra "perfection is the enemy of progress" a lot on this build, and so far (knock on wood) it's working out pretty good. Next up I have a fairly short punchlist to get this subframe on the car in a meaningful way, and then I'm planning on attacking the lateral links, trailing arms, and locating the strut towers. The more I think on it the more likely it is that I'll probably be scrapping more of the Impreza tower than I'd intended. The rust is pretty deep in the driver side tower and the more I stare at the mockup as it sits the more dislike the way it looks. One way or the other I'll figure out something good. Main goal is to have it back on its own four wheels (again) around the new year. We'll see if I make that goal or if I blow past it for some unforeseen reason. Hopefully I'll have at least one more update before the New Year, but if you don't hear from me beforehand, have a good last few weeks of the year, everybody! -M

Freaky build thoughts welcome here. I don't think inboard brakes are going to fit on the setup i'm planning, but someone wily might be able to make em fit on a closer to stock undercarriage. I'll probably just be swapping the knuckles to add discs on this one once I've got the suspension set up in the back end.

Shows the mentality of most of these places. Still remember finding a first gen Monte Carlo atop a heap, in a New England yard in the late eighties. Late in the day, on a Saturday. No time to pull perfect dashboard with complete harness. No time off during week. Asked them, very nicely, can this be saved until the following Saturday? Yeah sure buddy. Of course, when went back next Saturday, they had forked the hulk, through the windshield, moved the forks up and down, and destroyed the dashboard, along with the once perfect dash pad. A several hundred dollar sale, out the window. Typical.

You have tried: www.car-part.com? www.row52.com? Row 52 is nearly flat-lined, but they still list stuff in California yards. Most other states have dropped off their database. And no more pullers. Yep, I tried that, meaning a puller on their site, thinking, wow, I can sell here too. Nope, it turned out to be a joke. Every puller I sent a message to, didn't respond. No responses to my ads. No responses to replies to their wanted ads. Really? A couple of requests - for $5 to $10 plastic parts in Albuquerque area yards - 200 plus miles N of my location. Okay, am going to spend 8 hours total seat time - to chase plastic parts - that are likely either GONE, or DESTROYED by the SUN. You're kidding me. A complete waste of time, regrettably. Those cars have dissipated from Borderland yards. There were never many here, anyway. The local yard had three subarus when they crushed out - a '77ish coupe, an '84 wagon, and an '87 wagon with a dual range transmission. All were too risky to buy and try to resell, due to several factors. Limited market. Distance from potential "buyers". LOGISTICS (the gorilla in the room) or the physical act of moving the stuff.

That's a great question. I'll have to do a compression test when I go to my buddy's to use his shop. Our work schedules and other plans makes it difficult to find the time to meet up. It seems to be running better with the new ECU. Not perfect but I trust it for driving to work and back. Which is all I need the car for. I noticed it'll stumble after I start it when it's hot. Say I get to my destination, after I start it to leave, it'll stumble at idle after the first deceleration. For instance when I get to the first stop light. Once I take off, it seems to be okay after that. All fluids are at appropriate levels, oil pressure while slightly jittery is healthy, temps are okay, vacuum is okay when the engine isn't stumbling.

Bump into the wind.

^ That was my thought too. As this issue gets progressively worse you’ll start losing power in other gears too.

Lifts can rock if not adjusted regularly. I need to do ours as it sounds like an EA81. EJ251: The only issue they have for daily driving is a touchy throttle between no throttle and very light throttle. I find this annoying and am yet to find a solution - not that I’m looking hard as I’m too busy driving it then when I’m not I’m doing other things… If you have the leaking coolant crustiness on the outside of the head, replace head gaskets with the Multi Layer Steel (MLS) units from the STi - someone here knows the part number for these. I replaced ours and zero issues for 200,000kms so far. Engine now done 515,000kms which we’re stoked about. Still pulls like a freight train through the rev range. Uses a little oil but I’m not worried about that.

Rear sump bolts are accessible through the engine crossmember. Lifting the engine in situ with the engine mounts undone and pitch stopper rod removed should be enough to get the sump out without pulling the engine out. Surface prep then becomes a challenge but should be doable. Ppl performed this in the past. Personally I do the sump when the engine is out for head gaskets etc. Or if removing the engine for this job I’d do other work at the same time that’s far easier with the engine removed - resealing other oil seals, valve tappet adjustments (ea81) for example.

What does your compression look like with the engine cold and then with the engine at running temp?

I have a 1997 Subaru Impreza that needs replacement weather stripping around the RH doors as well the rear lift gate. Sadly, these parts are discontinued by Subaru. Does anyone have an idea of where I might find these parts?

Thanks, yes these are just simple straight through side feed. Maybe comments people made about turbos had me confused, it didn't look like these could leak. Thanks

I would not be surprised if my rings were bad. That'd explain why my vacuum flutters on start up then quickly subsides within a minute. The throttle body I'm using is a junk yard unit so no clue if the previous owners tried to adjust the mixture. There is still a fuel smell to the exhaust. It's so weird because it went away after fixing the code 34, then it came back. At least now it's running without throwing a CEL or codes.

Fouling after driving down the hill with clutch engaged, would likely be the pistons sucking oil past the rings into the combustion chamber. The dirty plug would confirm that. There is an mixture adjustment screw on the top of my intake manifold. You lean it out by unscrewing it and getting the highest idle rpm. You stop unscrewing it just as the maximum rpm is reached.