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Would the replacement throttle body need to have come from the same vehicle, an 87 GL-10 wagon with the EA82 SPFI engine? Or could it come from other years/models?

I'm working on my grandfathers car that has been sitting for almost 20 years and my dad was trying to help me get it working. There was no distributor in it when we popped the hood and we managed to find a 87 GL distributor. We cut the connectors and we matched the cars wire color to the distributors and cranking it over it won't spark. My dad found something online saying swap the green and white wire but we don't have a white wire and we don't want to fry it. Any ideas?

I'm only running this way for testing purposes, it's temporary. I DO NOT NEED RECOMMENDATIONS or discussion about how bad of an idea this is. I've driven a few hundred miles and the top smooth surface of the Subaru belt is showing odd grooving and uneven wear. It's never touched any fluids and belt and pulleys are all OEM and only 5 years old with maybe 50,000 miles. I checked them just in case although there's really no way for a pulley to cause such uneven wear. All of the pulleys and water pump seem fine - so I'm wondering what's causing this - could it be the heat from the exhaust coming up from those 2005+ odd exhuast systems that run forward under the timing belts? That seems really unlikely but I've also never seen a timing belt do this before. I'm going to install new pulleys and water pump and timing cover, but I'd also like to know for sure what's causing this.

Yes my 2005 Impreza has to bulbs the H1 Low beam and a separate Hight Beam bulb.

Found this in a 2011 NASIOC forum: So it looks like the following Subarus use H1 low beam bulbs: 2004-2005 Impreza 2003-2004 Baja 2000 - 2003 Legacy

good, so where do the H1 go?

Big hammer on the front and rear of the lower arm. Hit it hard and the taper will release. I never used a fork, cause I don't have one.

Single H4 bulb, with 2 filaments.

I’d be working out what fried the ECU first! No use spending good coin on a replacement ECU only to have the same thing happen again!

I have seen throttle bodies for sale on eBay. Granted, they really aren't cheap. Enough to make me wince ($350-$400). HOWEVER - with the throttle body you get a TPS, an injector, a fuel pressure regulator, and an IAC valve. You'd spend over $400 if you bought the parts separately (if you can find them *cough* injector & OEM regulator). It's not the cheap route, but the parts would be genuine and you'd have spares. You may get lucky if you spend a few hours on the eBay rabbit hole. I saw someone list a throttle body as a carb a few months back for a crazy low price. I'd just check all the electrical hoopla going to the TPS before plugging it in. Just my 2¢. :]

I suspect the reason people say they might "leak for no reason" are the bolts being previously overtightened which creates a pinhole/crack behind said bolt for the coolant to come out of. As a result, someone might suspect a gasket leak. I had this problem, and I fixed it with the Permatex coolant specific RTV. A light smear on the gasket and bolts worked. That said, you really shouldn't have to do this, as the paper gasket should be fine, but these cars are older with many hands that have been on them at this point.

And Car-part.com: 1999 Engine Computer Subaru Impreza 22611AE510 X AA0682 $125 Avalanche Auto Parts USA-CO(Denver) E-mail 1-303-722-3151

P.s.s this age they should be PlugnPlay - remove the battery cables 1st if you're not familiar w/the process. Also, check the EGI (?) fuse under the hood- the big one. Might have gotten blown, too. GL

This shows '99 only but AT and MT use the same: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Control-Module-ECM-Engine-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-Bracket/49232072/22611AE510.html I'm not sure about the '99 being MAF or MAP based? If it has the MAF by the airbox then it's likley a one year only ECU, since I believe the '00-'01 EJ22 were MAP. Here's one on Ebay: 22611ae510

Well, no luck finding anyone parting out a SPFI 1987 GL-10. Also came up empty on wrecking yards. I was about to order another Hitachi SERA484-2 from PartsGeek, but fortunately checked their return policy. It is very strict when it comes to electrical parts. I chatted with a rep and asked about the return policy on this part. From that conversation: "If your part fails, we will issue you an RMA number to return the product. Faulty parts and improperly installed parts return decisions are left up to the manufacturers’ rules and regulations . We process the return for you by accepting the part and then forward the part directly to the manufacturer for final approval. In this case, this part is returnable as long as it is due to an error whereby the incorrect part was delivered, or similar cases. Returns are not accepted in cases involving warranties or returns due to electrical failure of the part, or because it burned out due to an electrical failure in the vehicle, or similar cases." Ugh! So back to the drawing board...

The tapers should be easy. Your fork looks a bit big, it might rip the old rubber but it should work. The pinch bolt on the knuckle that sometimes get so corroded it snaps in two. Inspect and be careful. Unlink the antiroll bar to make it easier to push down on the lower control arm.

If you are getting the "beep of imminent death" from your ECU, when driving around, or even on startup, then your timing has issues. Various issues include, 1. rotor screw dropped out, 2. timing belts have never been tightened which should be done every 5000 to 8000 miles, 3. one side has skipped a tooth due to loose timing belts. Other symptoms include, engine power fluctuating, idles at a lower rpm than usual, less than normal power, runs rough on startup, heavy valve lifter noise. All of these indicate a timing issue.

My 05 forester started doing clicks and clacks in the front suspension over low speed bumps, seems like its time for suspension ball joints. no fee play in the steering ones. Received already my skf joints, but before trying to install and getting stuck, some questions: 1. does my fork tool look like the right size and shape? 2.how bad is freeing the tapers on these? Car has no rust but the joints where never changed in 20 years.. 3.any other tips in terms of work steps? tnxs!

that much i know.... but how do the us headlights work? separate bulbs for low and high?

Light bead maybe 1/16 to 1/8” but as you mentioned about clogs don’t over do it. And i’ve put the bead to the pump body, slap on the gasket then bolt it up without applying any bond to the engine case. Over here you can find the same product at the Nissan deal way cheaper. And if you have more than one Nissan dealer call them before driving over because some dealers just automatically mark up higher.

H1 bulb are single-beam. H4 bulbs are twin-beam High/Low.

'89 GL I have a question regarding Fujibond C aka Threebond 1324 anerobic sealant. In the '89 FSM it states that this sealant is for use on the periphery of the water pump mechanical seal however nowhere in the FSM (that I can find) does it mention how it's used. Most water pumps come with a paper gasket. Should the anerobic sealant be used with the paper gasket or just the anerobic sealant? How thick of a bead? I'd assume 1/16-1/8 inch. I'd prefer to use the anerobic sealant as I've heard the pumps are prone to leak "for no reason" is this due to the fact that most people just use the paper gasket supplied rather than the proper sealant? The anerobic sealant needs an absence of air to cure, so if any seeps into the water passages, it'll remain liquid and not cause any clogs. Any thoughts here? I'm a bit confused. :] P.S. After triple checking the FSM the nomenclature "mechanical seal" refers to the seal for the water pump shaft but doesn't mention it being used when installing the shaft seal. I'm so confused.

are you sure its H1? in europe hedalight lamps are H4.... in any case, i went el cheapo with these, like 35$, thye lasted 2 years..... look in thier shop, maybe they have the H1 you need https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07XF6VBV8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

I generally run Cougar Motor LED bulbs off of Amazon. They generally last 1-2 years. You could check Diode Dynamics and see what they offer, they'll run about $200 for a set. I've never had a Diode Dynamics product fail, and I have a lot from them. Fantastic customer service as well.

Hello Everyone, I've got a '99 Impreza 2.2 5mt and a fried ECM. Are these interchangeable as long as it is for a 2.2? Is there anything special I need to look for when finding a replacement? Does anyone know where to find one? Is there any programming or other special concerns when replacing it? Cheers!