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Awesome, thank you. I bought a drill press a year ago just for this job.

G’day Highstone Soobie, Only way to tell timing is to remove the covers and check. When the crank is lined up, one cam will be lined up and the other at 6 o’clock. It’s good that the belts are tight for a start. Since your L series is a carb model, you won’t have the green connectors for codes. That’s only for SPFI, MPFI and MPFI turbo models. I can’t remember if the carb fuel pump primes momentarily when you first turn the key to the ON position. You should be able to hear it. Alternatively, pull the fuel in hose at the carb, put a bottle on the end and turn the ignition to the ON position. Check the bottle for fuel. If none there, crank the engine over as this should tell that module thingo to operate the fuel pump. If there’s still no fuel you have an issue with the fuel pump, blocked filter or that fuel cut module. I’d first try bypassing that module temporarily. I can’t remember which wires to loop together to make the fuel pump operate with the key in the ON position. Once that’s established, next would be filter and then the pump. I’m also assuming you have enough fuel in the tank for the pump to pick it up. Cheers Bennie

As long as the springs are holding it tight, it doesn't matter what they are. My car has generic dorman ones from the auto parts store. Did you make a new bracket?

I wonder who is still around. I was on the Old Subie forum most of the time. Have to do a little sniffing around.

Thanks for walking me through the mounting bracket location, I was making it way harder than it needs to be and I think I've got that situated. I'm still having a problem with the exhaust where the pipes meet, though. I've got a brand new gasket in there but it's leaking in the same way that it did before I changed the gasket. I don't see an issue with the pipes like a crack or hole, so I'm thinking it has to be the connection. Does anyone know the correct size of the bolt/spring set that joins the flanges together or does it not matter as long as there is a secure connection?

Nice, always good when USMB members return.

Is there possibly anything in the ignition that I'm missing and I should check!?

Thank you. Pulling timing covers today. Initially checked inspection plugs and seemed intact but we shall see. Pulled covers.belt is tight and intact. How can you tell if it jumped time??? Also have been looking through posts trying to find info on the green code connectors, and seems others have posted also as only finding the one four pin green connector under the dash. Not in engine bay. No black or white connectors anywhere. Found: 1 green single wire connector(male) under dash. 3 blue single single wire connector (2 male and 1 female unhooked under dash. 1 green four pin connector female under dash. 1 white four pin connector (female) No green white or black on passenger side or under hood, or in back tail light areas, or proper connectors under dash on drivers side, which is currently torn apart trying to find this green 4 wire connectors mate.. Is this GL a ghost or a half model. Seems not to many of these out there. So anyone have any ideas on code connectors and their proper location? Anyone. Anyone?????

Thanks! Love Miles’ videos! I watched the Miles fox video first but it didn’t include the distributor section so just shared the Nice Guys one here for reference. Any chance I can get Miles to come take a look at my car? Haha

That video is OK, but kind of short on detail. Do a YouTube search for "Miles Fox EA82" and watch his timing belt video. He posted on this board for a long time, and his videos are good ones that have a lot of why you're doing what you're doing instead of just how to do it.

Thanks for the replies! I followed the procedure in this video for timing and double checked the holes are opposing on the two cams and align with the seams but can’t hurt to triple check. I also made sure to rotate the crank one full rotation after fitting the first belt. Checked the distributor alignment and that I have spark on all cylinders. Hoping it’s just my spoob mechanical skills and not something expensive 🤞 Will let y’all know what I find.

Hello Everyone! I haven't been here in forever. I was an active member from 2005 to about 2015. Life took me to different things, but funny how the waves of fate have brought me back again. Quick history: I first became a Subaru guy when, in 1992, I bought a 1980 GL wagon for $600. That little wagon got me all over the state of California. In the late 1990's. After that one died, and a 1987 normally aspired GL wagon coming in a out of my life, I got the car that would connect me to the USMB... Murphy, the 1987 $500 GL-10 Turbo Wagon! I was often found in the Old Gen section sharing all the wrenching adventures about Murph. I also had a Frankenstein 1982 BRAT, but Murphy was my love. I ended up parting ways with it in 2015, and forever wished I hadn't. Since then, I've gone through a couple more Subies; a 2009 Forester XT, and a 2003 BAJA. Both were sold last year to finance the restructuring of my business. I hated to part with the two vehicles, and hated to be without a Subaru, but the money from the sales got me through the difficult period. And now, I am in a position to get a new car... And I did! 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited OK. It's not "new", but it's new to me. It's a gem. 117k miles on it. Very clean. Gonna be posting some questions soon.

Good recs above. Presuming the clutch pedal hasn't disengaged the clutch with the pedal down, sounds like a leaking/blown slave or master cylinder. +1 on @nvu's checks for fluid, and great note by @forester2002s - don't overlook the obvious. Haven't had the slave or master go out on my stock 2010 WRX (yet), but have experienced this on other vehicles, as well as a snapped clutch cable on an older '84 GL Hatch. Definitely a bit of a confusion moment for a sec, then the ah cuhrap... Brake fluid-y jobs are one of my least favorite just 'cause I hate the stuff (anything involving grease requires executive override on procrastination to tackle that task, though nitrile glubs make it much nicer), but neither of these is too hard to replace, as I'm sure you're aware. Definite a nuisance. Worst part, imo, is the cleanup, and getting someone to pump the pedal to bleed.

Check the RHS timing belt. If that’s snapped you’ll have weird symptoms. The LHS timing belt spins the LHS cam, oil pump and the dizzy, while the right is only responsible for the RHS cam. Check that belt and get back to us. I’m out of ideas otherwise (for now). Cheers Bennie

Did you fit one cam belt, rotate the crank one rotation then fit the second belt? If not, this is your issue. I learned this the hard way. Your engine is probably running on one bank/side while the other does nothing. It will start with difficulty, and be completely gutless to drive. Cheers Bennie

I changed out the sender, cleaned the oil off the top of the engine as best I could, and took the dog for a ride. So far so good, that may have been the only leak. I got this one from the local Napa, I'll get a couple more coming via mail order. Thanks, all!

Have you checked your timing to make sure it didn’t skip a tooth ? Not sure how you did but I like to use clamps on the cams to hold the belts in place, get that last loop of the belt over the toothed gear which I leave loose until the belt slips over, then you can easily release the tensioner and your belt shouldn’t move. Just a tip. I’m guessing you have plenty of experience with other makes. Distributor ok ? No play side to side? If it is fuel your pump sits on a little shelf in back under the car on the right side. Getting hard to find replacements but maybe not so bad for this generation. I think Walbro made a good one for the EA82 FI cars. Post back what you found, and good luck. Some folks may also suggest the pressure regulator.

Hey yall! Just joined the Subaru crew with my '92 Loyale, Cherry. She sat for a year or so with a broken timing belt before I got hold of her and had a lot of somewhat "frankenstein" style work done by the previous owner. Here's where I'm at: Did timing belts, oil change, oil filter, spark plugs, checked all fluid levels, and replaced old fuel. I had some trouble getting her started until replacing the fuel filter (old Fram filter leaked cloudy brown fuel when I cut it out). After replacing the fuel filter it still usually takes a few tries before I can get her started and the idle is quite rough and can sputter out with too much throttle while cold. Some warmup time will typically help the idle settle in and allow me to rev to about 3500rpm although I get lot's of backfire and sometimes the engine stalls coming back down. When I try to put it in gear and ease off the clutch the engine feels like it's going to die immediately and will typically stall out with extremely minor load (backing out of an angled driveway, for example). I was able to feather it out onto the street and get into second gear but it can barely get above 15km/h without some major finesse and painful noises. My first instinct here is a fuel issue but I know it could be a lot of other things and would love any help yall can provide. Cheers!

Hopefully you all can help. I have an 87 GL 1.8L 4x4 wagon Weber Carbureted w/270000 miles. Have had for 5 years now and been having no start issues for about 2 weeks now.Your forums have steered me in the right directions but no luck. I have spark from coil to disty, disty to#1, new cap/rotor, rotors turns in disty so not the time belt. Seems to be getting fuel to carb, it ckokes and sputters and acts like it's flooding out and back fires , and hit the carb with starting fluid, won't even try to fire. Then checked rev sensor (what's up with that stupid thing)have power to the unit, have tack pulse, tried jumping several different ways just to be sure I didn't have wires mixed up. Can't hear pump kick on, but actually never have heard it since I got the car. Assume it's working cuz carb is flooding out. So not sure where to check from here. Any advice ???? would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

It's a basic idiot light switch. I keep them in stock, and I routinely replace them when a car comes in for other work. Subi's are extremely forgiving about running low on oil, but when that light starts flickering or worse yet, stays lit, you need to check things out.

Apparently in the ‘60s ppl wanted their V8 fords to be capable of “high revs”. Apparently the kids back then liked to see over 4000 rpm on the tacho, but the engines didn’t like it so apparently Ford modified the tacho so it looked like the engine would rev that hard when in fact it was still within what Ford considered safe operating. There’s always a way around things. It’s also why modern temp gauges don’t move once “at temp” until something catastrophic occurs and it sky rockets. Cheers Bennie

Is anything interfering with the clutch pedal? Carpet or mat for example?

It'd read somewhere between 2 and 100. I remember when ford fixed complaints of low oil pressure by replacing the gauge sender with a switch and resistor, so the gauge always read 2/3rds from 2psi up...

It's definitely motor oil. I looked closely at that sensor, and I can see oil bubbling out of it. It must be bad if my old eyes can see it. NAPA calls that an oil pressure switch, and they should get it in today or tomorrow. Oddly, NAPA specs say it's a 2-7psi switch. I guess that means it closes somewhere between 2 and 7PSI? or maybe closes at two, re-opens at 7? That seems WAY low. If I put a proper gauge there, what would it read?

If there's air, theres a leak. Check the lines for wetness and under the clutch reservoir. Get a scredriver and depress the slave piston in so you can wiggle the clutch fork back and forth. It should only move in two directions. If it's flopping all over the place, somethings broken, bearing, fork, pivot pin.