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Thank you. Must have been someone else, I haven't had the pleasure of owning a Datsun in a couple years. I let work take over my life and slowly got rid of all the fun cars. I'm trying to get back to owning a few cars just for the fun of it instead of owning all work vehicles

Welcome. I was just in Portland and saw a beautiful Datsun pickup with a camper top etc. Was that you?

Yeah that pump should work. Really so long as the pressure, voltage, and current draw are correct (the pump you showed looks to meet those specs) then these cars really don't care. I don't know if it'll last as long as an OEM or equivalent pump but it'll do the job. You may have to do some electrical work and figure out a mounting solution since this isn't an OEM equivalent pump but that's not a big deal and it's nothing too complicated. Sadly OEM/equivalent SPFI pumps are NLA but if you do ever want to keep a lookout for one, the part number is 42021GA242. Good luck, let us know how it goes. :]

I'd like to introduce myself, I'm Christopher. I'm an organic farmer in the Portland Oregon area. Always been a Datsun guy but starting to really enjoy the Subarus. Thanks for letting me into your group 😎

I don’t know the SPFI well at all, are you sure the fuel pressure spec is 21psi? I thought it would be more inline with other EFIs like the EJs up at about 40psi. I’ve used the same external fuel pump for a NA MPFI EA82 and an EJ22. No issues. My thinking is that your fuel pressure is half of what it should be. This could be the fuel regulator or the fuel pump itself, or both. Pull the vac line for the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it doesn’t smell of fuel. If so, it’s dead. Cheers Bennie

B straightened out the upper radiator support on the Outback. We cut out the lower radiator support. Hung a straight radiator and the condenser from upper support, hood closed, and started mocking up a new lower support. Got a piece of 3" square tubing to use for that. Put the main bumper beam back into place, squared it up, and cut a new mount for the passenger side. Will post pictures of all that later, planning on doing some fab tomorrow. The main damage to the engine seemed to be where the oil cooler/filter threads on to the block. I tapped it deeper and used one of the longer pipes we'd made when I did the same thing to the black Outback. Also like that time though the block has a hairline crack which was spraying oil everywhere. I cleaned this one out and then poured some super glue in the crack from the inside and outside. Then applied three layers of JB weld. Not real pretty but I ran the engine for a bit and I didn't see it leak a drop. So fingers crossed that will be a semi permanent fix.

Searching around for a pump that will work. My local parts store carries this pump: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1111648 Thoughts on this being a viable replacement?

Well wish I had done this check sooner! I'll see if I can find a pump and swap it out. Thanks!

For SPFI models, the fuel pressure discharge from the fuel pump is 36-50 psi. After the regulator is 20-24 psi @ 700rpm. The regulator drops the high pressure from the pump to a usable pressure for the injector. So there is a high pressure side and a low pressure side, separated by the fuel pressure regulator on the throttle body. Could be an issue with the fuel lines or filters. But most likely the fuel pump is tired and out of spec.

The 560k resistor in place of the knock sensor seems to confirm the knock sensor as my problem. The on / off cut-out bucking is gone, only a significant flat spot in the low rpm range, feels like a fail-safe scenario or similar sensation. I only drove a couple of miles before parking at the shop for the mechanic to get data while driving, he has a really nice tool for that. I’m hoping he gets the time to work on this soon. Meantime, I’ve been reading a conversation on this forum where Blitz has responded to the topic “hesitation” with a solution to the nock sensor involving a variable switch to add resistance manually to the circuit. He also had removed to knock sensor . I’ve been curious if anyone has solved the knock sensor issue with a combination of a resistor in series with the knock sensor. My mechanic says that might be something to consider. Thanks for any thoughts

I measured between the fuel filter and the throttle body. So I suppose this is before the regulator. I assumed the regulator would change the pressure in the entire system but if I’m supposed to be getting almost full potential psi from the fuel pump then I guess there’s my problem.

Fuel pressure is not building with key to on, but not started. If he sprays a little starting fluid in, it will start and run and fuel pressure is 35psi. Fuel pressure drops to zero when the car is shut off. Both engines had this issue and it was a complete swap so the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors... have all been changed by the engine swap. Hard troubleshooting from 3500 miles away.

Did you measure before or after the fuel pressure regulator? If after, that seems pretty close but others more experienced would have to let you know for sure. If you decide to pull your injector, I've found a large needle nose vice grip works the best. Don't use the straight part of the jaws, rather the semi-circle part of the jaws works very well. You may have to spin the injector to loosen the 2 o-rings. Be sure not to lose the 3-padded metal ring the injector sits on top of. Throttle body & injector gasket kit I use is Walker 18015.

Late to the party, if only doing clutch I drop the gearbox. On our 2000 Liberty/Legacy, I pulled the gearbox and managed to slide it back enough to work on the clutch and swap it out for a new one. This saved dropping the gearbox, I can’t remember if I managed to get away without removing the drive shafts. If I needed to it was an easy wiggle one way then the other with the gearbox because my model has diff stub axles, yours will have the male driveshafts into the gearbox to contend with. I used two steel rods that sat on the engine crossmember and the front gearbox crossmember piece. The rear crossmember and centre piece was removed, as was the gear linkages, tail shaft and exhaust. Where there’s a will there’s a way. These days I find it easier to drop the gearbox rather than lift out the engine. I put the car on ramps and go from there. If dropping the gearbox out all together I use a motorcycle jack and usually need to get the car up higher to clear the bellhousing as the engine comes out from under the car. Cheers Bennie

Alright folks, installed the new solenoid and still having the same issues. The CEL is now off and I'm not getting any codes from the ECU. Just checked for vacuum leaks again and it doesn't seem like there are any. Out of curiosity, I double checked my fuel pressure and am getting 19/20 psi. Is this close enough to the spec of 21 psi? And if so, would a good next step be to check the fuel injector to see if there are any issues going on there?

Thanks for the info guys! Yeah I figured it might be like that. Awesome! Thanks for your help!

My 2008 Subaru Outback Sport has been involved in a wreck and likely needs to be totalled. CarFax does not show a transmission or engine replacement but I bought it having been told one was replaced. The VIN is 4S4BP61C287310455. I think I found the transmission sticker itself so the first thing is "is this the transmission tag". I have attached the sticker. I have spent many hours trying to decode and just overwhelmed. There wasa another similar sticker about two inches away with no writing left that I can see.. I am trying to prove this is a replacement from the original transmission. I am going to go back tomorrow to the salvage yard and look on the passenger side door and just trying to do everything I can to prove this. Does anyone have any advice?

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145506-ej251-engine-weighs-119-kg-262-lbs/?do=findComment&comment=1222275

If you have other engine maintenance to do, pull the engine. Yes either works. Reseal the oil separator plate behind the flywheel. RTV - gray. Get the metal plate if you'r is plastic.

As others have said,, replace them. Just the EJ22 had composite gaskets. The early EJ25's had single layer gaskets, they later went to MLS types. O.

I've done it both ways but without help or a tranny jack, i'd lift the engine. You have to get it up high and its no fun wrestling that weight. Yes you have to drain the coolant and separate the exhaust (don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensors), but I can do this without help. O.

Using your heads and intake manifold any 2000 to 2012 will work. Better options would be 06 up. In 05 Subaru went to Drive by Wire . The Radiator and water pump housing leads are in slightly different places, so don't cut those hoses you may need them. Depending on block year, you may need the radiator. You can use an Impreza block, but the oil pan is different. I believe those are the differences. If I think of anything else, I'll chime in. O.

I am looking for all options for a replacement engine for my son's 2007 outback wagon with a standard EJ- 2.5. The block is bad, the head are ok. I know that engines from an outback and legacy work. If someone can confirm which years exactly and do Impreza 2.5's or forester 2.5 blocks work? If so, which years? Thanks in advance.

2007 Outback legacy is it easier to drop the transmission to change the clutch or pull the engine? Odd question maybe. I can’t find any information on the weight of the 5 speed manual that’s in the car. I don’t have a lift but i do have a cherry picker. I’m just not sure if I can get the car high enough to drop the transmission. What have you guys done? Thanks

That was the first real drive I've done in it since getting the blower going and I did notice I had good heat at the feet so at least it's flowing through the heater core. I'm going to get a plan of action with this radiator since it's currently dripping and I'm going to be changing the lower hose that's been roadside-repaired with a union piece.